What motor oil do you use - Another survey
03-07-2003, 01:01 AM
#31
89S4 5spd
81 auto (4spd)
Both cars get Amsoil 20/50 Series 2000 racing oil. It comes in 12 qt. boxes, and I have a "preferred customer" mebership where I can get it for a better price that normal. My 20 dollar membership is payed for in the first order.
I like this oil, and I feel the tests prove my distrust of Mobile one. Value, not price will always drive my decisions. Mobile is a chemically altered dino oil.
Redline and Amsoil are actually synthetic, and I have had okay luck with redline in my 5spd. transmission, but will try amsoil at the next drain.
NOt much history yet with a amsoil fill with the auto 4spd.
81 auto (4spd)
Both cars get Amsoil 20/50 Series 2000 racing oil. It comes in 12 qt. boxes, and I have a "preferred customer" mebership where I can get it for a better price that normal. My 20 dollar membership is payed for in the first order.
I like this oil, and I feel the tests prove my distrust of Mobile one. Value, not price will always drive my decisions. Mobile is a chemically altered dino oil.
Redline and Amsoil are actually synthetic, and I have had okay luck with redline in my 5spd. transmission, but will try amsoil at the next drain.
NOt much history yet with a amsoil fill with the auto 4spd.
03-07-2003, 04:36 AM
#32
Burning Brakes
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by TeufelHei:
[QB]....My choice of Valvoline over M1 is based on some information I got from the DEVEK FAQ section. According to them, Red Line and Valvoline are recommended synthetics for the 928 due to it's tendency to ingest oil in the intake at excessive RPM causing a low compression state and possible detonation. Valvoline's synth (like Red Line) is more easily digested and doesn't negatively impact compression like other less qualified lubricants.
Tim/QUOTE]
I am 'with Tim' and using Valvoline W5-40 SynPower
But Tim, I have to correct a little regarding what Devek said, see:
<a href="http://www.devek.net/index.php?page=nfo_tech_tips" target="_blank">http://www.devek.net/index.php?page=nfo_tech_tips</a>
Quote from Devek's Tech Tips:
Oil driven detonation:................ That's because oil mixing with the injected fuel lowers the effective octane rating and hence the detonation threshold ..........
<img border="0" alt="[byebye]" title="" src="graemlins/wave.gif" />
[QB]....My choice of Valvoline over M1 is based on some information I got from the DEVEK FAQ section. According to them, Red Line and Valvoline are recommended synthetics for the 928 due to it's tendency to ingest oil in the intake at excessive RPM causing a low compression state and possible detonation. Valvoline's synth (like Red Line) is more easily digested and doesn't negatively impact compression like other less qualified lubricants.
Tim/QUOTE]
I am 'with Tim' and using Valvoline W5-40 SynPower
But Tim, I have to correct a little regarding what Devek said, see:
<a href="http://www.devek.net/index.php?page=nfo_tech_tips" target="_blank">http://www.devek.net/index.php?page=nfo_tech_tips</a>
Quote from Devek's Tech Tips:
Oil driven detonation:................ That's because oil mixing with the injected fuel lowers the effective octane rating and hence the detonation threshold ..........
<img border="0" alt="[byebye]" title="" src="graemlins/wave.gif" />
03-07-2003, 03:55 PM
#33
Rennlist Member
I have to swear by Amzoil and Redline. remember, Ive been racing 3 engines at 260+ oil temp for a few years now, and the bearings were perfect.(on the ones I looked at)
Not to mention, no accusump, but rpms rarely over 6200rpm.
most all of the engine failures have occured with mobil 1 synthetic. In light of the fact that it seems that mobil 1 has only the wear protection of new dyno oil after 1000miles, I chose to either use kendal 20-50 and change it after every race, or Redline or Amzoil and change it after every 3 races.
the shear, high temp viscosity stability,and other performance characteristics seem to indicate that Amzoil is best.
(knocking on wood again before this season)
MK
Not to mention, no accusump, but rpms rarely over 6200rpm.
most all of the engine failures have occured with mobil 1 synthetic. In light of the fact that it seems that mobil 1 has only the wear protection of new dyno oil after 1000miles, I chose to either use kendal 20-50 and change it after every race, or Redline or Amzoil and change it after every 3 races.
the shear, high temp viscosity stability,and other performance characteristics seem to indicate that Amzoil is best.
(knocking on wood again before this season)
MK
03-07-2003, 04:43 PM
#34
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1) '93 GTS, 5sp
2) Redline 20-50, synthetic (is this redundant?)
3) Comments/Concerns
I was using Valvoline 20-50 synthetic. On some of the track days, the oil would seem to not want to cool down and got a little frothy. I'm just switching to Redline to see if it is a little better. If not, back to the Valvoline.
-------------------------------------------------
Garth
'93 GTS 5sp
2) Redline 20-50, synthetic (is this redundant?)
3) Comments/Concerns
I was using Valvoline 20-50 synthetic. On some of the track days, the oil would seem to not want to cool down and got a little frothy. I'm just switching to Redline to see if it is a little better. If not, back to the Valvoline.
-------------------------------------------------
Garth
'93 GTS 5sp
03-08-2003, 05:14 PM
#35
Racer
Thread Starter
Well. Just changed to the Mobil-1 15w-50 w/Mahel filter. (could be my imagination but it sounded smoother to start with). We will see......
I will comment though. The new filter (Mahel)sure looked like it was constructed far superior to the one I pulled off. (bottom of pan now, PHxxx something, not a fram,and was white....B/A?)
Bob
I will comment though. The new filter (Mahel)sure looked like it was constructed far superior to the one I pulled off. (bottom of pan now, PHxxx something, not a fram,and was white....B/A?)
Bob
04-15-2003, 12:50 PM
#36
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Just bought my shark a month ago and I am having the oil changed out this Friday. I too was warned that synth would cause leak by a Porsche tech. However, after reading all the posts, now I'm curious why techs all say that. My tech recommended the Amzoil but now I'm thinking synth... however, I'm still concerned about an oily mess on the garage floor or worse yet, oily engine after the PO had the entire engine degreased. What would you do? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
04-15-2003, 01:26 PM
#37
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I am using castrol syntec full synthetic 10 w 40, car runs very nice and I dont have any leaks. I think I will try redline at my next change and see how it differs. Car does eat about a quart a month.
04-15-2003, 01:34 PM
#38
Nordschleife Master
Valvoline 20w50 (Valvoline 20w50 Racing when I'm on the track)
<img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
Comments: Never had an issue with it. No Boil over EVER. Both types.
<img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
Comments: Never had an issue with it. No Boil over EVER. Both types.
04-15-2003, 01:47 PM
#39
Burning Brakes
Castrol full synth, thats funny, Mobil sued them, because they just manipulate dino stock. Mobil lost and lowed the quality of their oils to take advantage of higher profits. Hey, if Castrol can lie about full synth, why not Mobil 1? That is exactly what they are doing. Niether one is a true synthetic base stock anymore. Buyer Beware!
1989 928 GT
Amsoil Series 2000 20W-50 true synthetic
1998 BMW 750iL
Amsoil 10W-40 synthetic
For dino oil I like Shell Rotella. I have been running it in my 99 F-350 for three years 210k miles. I also run it in my Motorhome. Oils formulated for Diesels (like Rotella) have a better additive package. The problem is that with long term use they can cause problems with catalytic convertors. The MH has no cat and is definately working hard, 460 ci gas.
Oil sampling has shown that 3000 mile changes are a waste. My "worked like a dog" diesel pick-up gets great reviews at 5000 mile intervals. They keep suggesting I go longer as the oil is fine. I generally stick with 5k as it is easy to remember. I run the BMW until the service indicator reccomends a change. Both my BMW and MB with this system go 10k between changes (on synthetics). The oil still checked out OK in the BMW upon analysis, with 10k miles.
I think the newer engines run much tighter tolerances and meter fuel much better. This contributes to substantially longer oil life. My class 8 Mack truck runs the same 40 qts of oil(synthetic) for 40k miles with excellent results. YMMV
1989 928 GT
Amsoil Series 2000 20W-50 true synthetic
1998 BMW 750iL
Amsoil 10W-40 synthetic
For dino oil I like Shell Rotella. I have been running it in my 99 F-350 for three years 210k miles. I also run it in my Motorhome. Oils formulated for Diesels (like Rotella) have a better additive package. The problem is that with long term use they can cause problems with catalytic convertors. The MH has no cat and is definately working hard, 460 ci gas.
Oil sampling has shown that 3000 mile changes are a waste. My "worked like a dog" diesel pick-up gets great reviews at 5000 mile intervals. They keep suggesting I go longer as the oil is fine. I generally stick with 5k as it is easy to remember. I run the BMW until the service indicator reccomends a change. Both my BMW and MB with this system go 10k between changes (on synthetics). The oil still checked out OK in the BMW upon analysis, with 10k miles.
I think the newer engines run much tighter tolerances and meter fuel much better. This contributes to substantially longer oil life. My class 8 Mack truck runs the same 40 qts of oil(synthetic) for 40k miles with excellent results. YMMV
04-15-2003, 03:05 PM
#40
I believe the Castrol TWS (spec'd by BMW for the M series) 10W60 is a true fully synthetic oil...not 100% on that but it is only available in Europe and BMW dealers here.
Way pricey at $9 /litre (full litre)...
I will probably be going to Redline (or Amsoil...hate their marketing scheme..but hear good things about the oil)...
Later,
Tom
midlman@rennlist.com
89GT
87S4AT for sale
Way pricey at $9 /litre (full litre)...
I will probably be going to Redline (or Amsoil...hate their marketing scheme..but hear good things about the oil)...
Later,
Tom
midlman@rennlist.com
89GT
87S4AT for sale
04-15-2003, 05:06 PM
#41
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Valvoline 20W-50 Synthetic Blend
Working towards full synthetic as long as no leaks appear.
<img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
Working towards full synthetic as long as no leaks appear.
<img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
