Single line from the accusump into the end cap of a canton spin-on oil filter.

I hear this will even keep an engine alive running Mobil 1!!

That, or the unknown factory modifications.

 

Where did you plan on locating it?

 

That is a nice looking piece....it's my understanding that the older cars have no oil cooler etc. so you are in need of the thermostat, where the newer cars already have an integral unit.


Well now.....that sounds interesting. I found this site http://cmfilters.com/spin-on.cfm#specs, but which filter are you using. Are you running a 90 degree fitting at the end of the filter or is there room to run it in straight?

Louie....I was thinking about tucking mine up under the front rebar....but then it may be difficult to see the guage each time. Did you go with the 55/60 electric valve wired to the ignition on yours?

Thanks again for the reply.

Ken

 

Somewhere like you did, if its legal with the racing leagues here, or at least near the center of the car.

 

Ken,
I believe I used the 30/35 valve. I know I wanted to keep a full Accusump until the pressure was down near the danger point, then dump it all. I didn't want the Accusump to dump oil when the engine idles before I shut it down either. I have my Accusump in the rear and have the valve connected to the fuel pump power. When I turn on the ignition, the pump comes on for 2 seconds and I monitor oil pressure to see about 2.5 bar rise before I start the engine. If I don't start the engine but leave the ignition on for some reason, the Accusump only dumps 2 sec of oil and has some left for the next start. It also doesn't have to refill the whole capacity completely on the next engine start. Lots of ways to do it and what valve or how you activate it depends on how you think it will provide the most benefit. You may want to seriously consider checking your rod bearings soon. I saw my oil pressure dip only a couple of times and the bearings were gone to the copper and beginning to spin in the rod by the time I quit running the engine. Closely monitor your oil filter for metal. Check the filter after every track event even if you don't change oil. The oil pressure sender has a tiny hole to sense pressure. If you see a drop, the pressure has been gone for some period of time before the gauge indicates it.

 

25-482 is the new filter (20x1.5mm threads). The new style end cap on this one is a bit tight to drill and tap, but has been done. The 282 will give more room, but the longer filter does work.

I was running the old style that had the nice removable end cap. That one was easier to tap for a 90 degree fitting.

 

Louie: That makes sense...in my mind I thought I should try to keep it near the normal upper range. There was another 928 at the track and he happened to be using the 55/60 so yours and his are my only two reference points.

Is there any downside to placing the accusump in the rear? I thought that I should mount it as close to the engine as possible, but a rear mount would certainly give me more mounting options.

Good sound advice. I was going to "put a bandaid" on this with the accusump...but after thinking about your comment and seeing a post from on the other side of the pond this morning with another probable 2/6 rod failure from track use, it's time to put the car away until I can address the bearings, crank scraper and accusump. Are you running the crank scrapers on your engine?

John: So that I can get a better idea of the range of set ups...what valve are you using and where did you mount your accusump.

Again.. Thanks to everyone. I'd much rather save a motor than rebuild a motor.

Ken

 

I have the old style accusump with no trigger valve. Oil pressure moved with the engine pressure. It was mounted in the rear hatch on the street car and I then mounted in the rear passenger area in the track car.

Right now it's in the garage since the track car has a dry sump. The GT stays off the track.

 

I was wondering about no valve at all....so then it would be dependent on the air pressure in the cylinder. What kind of pressure did you run?

I really think that an electric valve would be better for me since I still do street drive the car and this is not a full race car situation. I wouldn't want 3 extra quarts of oil in the pan at idle....Louies choice of the 30/35 may be best assuming that 30 PSI would keep everything alive. Do you know what any of the other track guys are running?

Thanks,

Ken

 

It only depends on the air pressure created by the oil pressure in the sealed cyl.
http://www.accusump.com/acc_tech_how.html

Some do run with no valve. I ran a valve since I wanted to pre-oil the engine before starting and sisn't want an extra 3 qts. sitting in the pan before the accusump was filled.
30/35 would work fine.

 

Ken,
My rod bearing problems and Accusump experience is limited, but went something like this. Track day at Thunderhill. Having a great time and with some suspension mods and better tires was able to get around faster than before. I blew a breather hose under the intake manifold, but didn't know it. Lost some oil. I saw the pressure gauge dip in the left sweeper (turn 2 or 3). Came on in and saw the oil everywhere problem and that ended the day. I installed an Accusump figuring my oil pressure problems would be over. Fixed the breather hose and began analysis of the breather system to figure out why enough crankcase pressure to rupture a hose. Whole other story there. Had a couple more track days that summer plus many dyno tests of exhaust and intake improvements. The dyno showed the baseline numbers were down 10 to 12 hp and getting worse. I couldn't find the problem. The last track day the car was noticably slower. Afterward, I cut the filter apart and saw some metal. That was the end of that motor. Bottom end removal showed the #6 rod bearing into the copper and spinning. #2 bearing had the soft metal smeared and starting to come off. I had a GTS oil baffle in the engine at the time. On the rebuild, I went the stroker route. About the same time Don Hanson had a catastrophic rod bearing failure at TH. That almost cut his engine in two. I think I did the initial damage that one time I ran the engine low on oil and saw the pressure dip. I attributed no subsequent catastrophic failure to having an Accusump on later track days and running Redline 20W 50 oil plus catching it in time by checking the oil filter. Even running on the copper, the engine didn't make more than normal noise.

I mounted my Accusump in the rear because there is space under the rear bumper cover for it. I wanted to retain stock appearance for the car and I have an aversion to adding weight to the front. Operationally, I believe it would be best near the engine. Using AN-12 size line, maybe not much.

Originally, I had an electric valve that when turned on allowed the accusump to follow the engine oil pressure. Unless I remembered to rev the engine for a while to fill the accusump before shutdown, it would dump oil into the sump at normal idle RPM/pressure. I'd never know really how much oil I had in the engine. The sump would be over full. The Accusump fills slowly and dumps quickly so I never really knew how long to hold high RPM until the Accusump would be full before shutdown either. Whatever, I would typically forget to hold RPM before shutdown, or turn off the AS while I was coming in with high oil pressure. One thing I did find when doing research on oil blowing out was that the 928 carries the oil way too close to the crank/rods with normal oil level. Adding more just makes the oil froth situation worse. With the 30/35 valve Ihave now, the oil level in the pan stays fairly constant and the Accusump stays pressurized to about 140 psi for a good energetic dump if I ever need it. For my use, the AS advantage is mostly pre start oiling since track days will be few. Plus I don't have the *****/skill to hold this thing at max output for very long anyway. There is enough torque that I won't need high RPM in a corner.

 

Would be cool if you could add some sort of "counter" to the 30/35 valve to see how many times it "dumps".

 

You could do that. The 30/35, 50/55, switch is an electrical switch that activates the electric valve. You could put a +12 volt event counter on it, and/or have the switch activate an indicator light in the cockpit.

 

Well I just scored a complete Accusump kit off of e-bay last night, so once it arrives I will be getting after my install. I've purchased a 3 quart with the 55/60 electric valve. I haven't pulled the oil filter from the car yet since I was out of filters.....but if everything looks good and there is no metal in the oil filter I plan on installing the Accusump and running one final DE next month at Mid Ohio....I've never had any oiling issues at that track, because there are really no long high speed sweepers.

The winter project will be new rod bearings and crank scraper. Some of the comments that I have read about the crank scraper is a reduced engine coolant temperature....so maybe an additional or upgraded oil cooler won't be necessary.

Ken

 

Yes, I can vouch for that too; my engine is now running 10 - 15 degrees cooler at RA with the complete Ishihara-Johnson crank scraper kit.

And as I mentioned elsewhere, with the I-J crank scraper, my Accusump was barely warm to the touch after a session. The ambient temp was in the 60's, and immediately after coming in from a 20-minute session, we hit the Accusump with an IR gun, and it read 86 degrees; we were all pretty incredulous. That is proof-positive that the I-J crank scraper works since the Accusump hardly cycled during a 20-minute session while driving 2:37 - 2:39 lap times.

If at all possible, go ahead and do the external oil cooler too at the same time; it is money in the bank.

This has been a very informative thread. I will be getting one of those electric valves for the Accusump too.