Solid steering rack mounts
07-13-2007, 07:34 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Solid steering rack mounts
I am mounting my new solid steering rack bushings, and some problems have occured:
1. The 17 mm bolts rotate, and it is very difficult to get anything in on top to counterhold, as space is extremely limited. I think this is solved, either do it in the same very awkward way as I did when removing the nuts, or get some additional tools tomorrow.
2. The bushings are very hard to remove, I managed to get one out by drilling out the rubber.
3. The new solid bushing goes easily in, stopping at the small edge. I thought they should be a very tight fit?
4. When removing the bushings, do you remove the complete bushing (Consist of inner metal cylinder, rubber, outer thin metal casing) or do you leave out the outer thin metal frame? That would explain the loose fit (See above, 3.).
My old bushings seems to be in perfect shape, may be that can explain why they are so hard to remove.
Going to a Porsche Club Norway event this weekend, so I am hoping to sort this out tomorrow, and also get it right.
1. The 17 mm bolts rotate, and it is very difficult to get anything in on top to counterhold, as space is extremely limited. I think this is solved, either do it in the same very awkward way as I did when removing the nuts, or get some additional tools tomorrow.
2. The bushings are very hard to remove, I managed to get one out by drilling out the rubber.
3. The new solid bushing goes easily in, stopping at the small edge. I thought they should be a very tight fit?
4. When removing the bushings, do you remove the complete bushing (Consist of inner metal cylinder, rubber, outer thin metal casing) or do you leave out the outer thin metal frame? That would explain the loose fit (See above, 3.).
My old bushings seems to be in perfect shape, may be that can explain why they are so hard to remove.
Going to a Porsche Club Norway event this weekend, so I am hoping to sort this out tomorrow, and also get it right.
07-13-2007, 07:59 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Okv
I am mounting my new solid steering rack bushings, and some problems have occured:
1. The 17 mm bolts rotate, and it is very difficult to get anything in on top to counterhold, as space is extremely limited. I think this is solved, either do it in the same very awkward way as I did when removing the nuts, or get some additional tools tomorrow.
2. The bushings are very hard to remove, I managed to get one out by drilling out the rubber.
3. The new solid bushing goes easily in, stopping at the small edge. I thought they should be a very tight fit?
4. When removing the bushings, do you remove the complete bushing (Consist of inner metal cylinder, rubber, outer thin metal casing) or do you leave out the outer thin metal frame? That would explain the loose fit (See above, 3.).
My old bushings seems to be in perfect shape, may be that can explain why they are so hard to remove.
Going to a Porsche Club Norway event this weekend, so I am hoping to sort this out tomorrow, and also get it right.
1. The 17 mm bolts rotate, and it is very difficult to get anything in on top to counterhold, as space is extremely limited. I think this is solved, either do it in the same very awkward way as I did when removing the nuts, or get some additional tools tomorrow.
2. The bushings are very hard to remove, I managed to get one out by drilling out the rubber.
3. The new solid bushing goes easily in, stopping at the small edge. I thought they should be a very tight fit?
4. When removing the bushings, do you remove the complete bushing (Consist of inner metal cylinder, rubber, outer thin metal casing) or do you leave out the outer thin metal frame? That would explain the loose fit (See above, 3.).
My old bushings seems to be in perfect shape, may be that can explain why they are so hard to remove.
Going to a Porsche Club Norway event this weekend, so I am hoping to sort this out tomorrow, and also get it right.
Re:
1) I have always found that a short 3/8" ratchet with a 17mm socket to fit on top for a counterhold .... even the front left. Some wedge a screwdriver or allan key in the top channel to achieve the same.
2) If the top side 'folded' outer metal skin is straightened with a cold chisel, the bushing can be pushed downwards; alternatively, the bottom outer lip can be cut away with a Dremel or die grinder .... and pushed upwards.
3 )I do not know the bushing referred to - but if the play is only fractions of a mm, I would not be concerned - the rubber likely yields much further under side loading than the play you observe.
4) The outer steel cylinder was bonded to the rubber core ... it is meant to be removed as a unit.
If the old ones appear to have been in perfect shape .... now is too late to tell me!
Good luck on the mod - the bushings are easy if the rack is removed .... more fun if it is left hanging by the tie rods and hoses.
07-13-2007, 08:02 PM
#3
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Ditto Garth's suggestions.
I always use an allen to wedge the head of the bolt.
I always use an allen to wedge the head of the bolt.
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
07-13-2007, 08:43 PM
#5
Drifting
A swivel socket combination wrench works well on those bolts. Like this:
http://www.toptul-usa.com/4-2_8swivel.htm
http://www.toptul-usa.com/4-2_8swivel.htm
07-13-2007, 08:51 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
I have several 17mm open and closed end wrenches from different manufacturers. The Husky's work well on two of them, the craftsman on one, and the mac on the other.
07-13-2007, 10:05 PM
#7
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Removing the old bushings: Grab one side of the rolled flange on the inner steel sleeve with a small vise-grip style pliers, and twist. Do the same on the outer steel sleeve. Removal this way takes seconds.
New bushing fit: They should just fit, not a hammer fit and not loose. If they seem loose, you can use a small hammer and a center punch in a few places (at least three) around the outside of the bushing. The punch will raise the metal just a little, making the fit just a little more snug. If they are too tight, there's a risk of cracking the ear on the rack as you force them in -- Not good!
New bushing fit: They should just fit, not a hammer fit and not loose. If they seem loose, you can use a small hammer and a center punch in a few places (at least three) around the outside of the bushing. The punch will raise the metal just a little, making the fit just a little more snug. If they are too tight, there's a risk of cracking the ear on the rack as you force them in -- Not good!
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07-14-2007, 02:51 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
The new solid bushings will feel loose individually -- they are not a press fit. When all 4 are in place though, due to the variations in the crossmember dimensions, they are tight when you get all of them in.
07-16-2007, 02:40 PM
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
Completed the install saturday and went for some mountaineering and the Porsche Club Norway event in Loen, so that the Shark could meet some of its relatives.
That turned out to be a very good idea, even though the weather was rainy and bad, ruined my wash & wax job, but, you can not see that when driving the car.
The bushings are a true success, no doubt the car feels better, there is a quite noticeable improvement in steering finesse and feel, one additional step in the direction of being a sports car.
The steering may seem fine as stock, you kind of think that this is as good as it gets on this heavy car - not so, the solid bushings will improve the accuracy and feel even when the stock ones are in great shape.
Kind of makes you wonder why they did not make it like this to begin with, as I can not see any need for something that 'gives' in this location. May be they tried to make a more isolated driving feel.
As for the problems - bought some different 17 mm wrench tools, if the head is not too wide it will fit, the old bushings had to be drilled out using a Dremel, drilling the rubber, then using a pipe wrench to get the metal out, the bushings are more like a perfect fit when all four are in place.
That turned out to be a very good idea, even though the weather was rainy and bad, ruined my wash & wax job, but, you can not see that when driving the car.
The bushings are a true success, no doubt the car feels better, there is a quite noticeable improvement in steering finesse and feel, one additional step in the direction of being a sports car.
The steering may seem fine as stock, you kind of think that this is as good as it gets on this heavy car - not so, the solid bushings will improve the accuracy and feel even when the stock ones are in great shape.
Kind of makes you wonder why they did not make it like this to begin with, as I can not see any need for something that 'gives' in this location. May be they tried to make a more isolated driving feel.
As for the problems - bought some different 17 mm wrench tools, if the head is not too wide it will fit, the old bushings had to be drilled out using a Dremel, drilling the rubber, then using a pipe wrench to get the metal out, the bushings are more like a perfect fit when all four are in place.