Question re valve timing and PorKen's v1 kit
#1
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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Thread Starter
Question re valve timing and PorKen's v1 kit
After installing the cams for cyls 1-4 (I didn't need to remove anything for 5-8), I need to finish setting precise valve timing for cyls 1-4. I'll be getting PorKen's v2 kit later this week, but since I have his v1 kit I figured I'd check what the timing is like now.
Cylinders 5-8 are registering at 2* advanced (i.e., the needle fits perfectly in the "V" in the first hole to the left (counterclockwise) of the center hole).
Cylinders 1-4 (the ones involved in my repair) are registering at 2* retarded (i.e., the needle fits in the first hole to the right (clockwise) of the center hole).
Here's the question...where is each cam supposed to be indicating....in the center hole or somewhere else??
Thanks in advance!
Cylinders 5-8 are registering at 2* advanced (i.e., the needle fits perfectly in the "V" in the first hole to the left (counterclockwise) of the center hole).
Cylinders 1-4 (the ones involved in my repair) are registering at 2* retarded (i.e., the needle fits in the first hole to the right (clockwise) of the center hole).
Here's the question...where is each cam supposed to be indicating....in the center hole or somewhere else??
Thanks in advance!
#3
Rennlist Member
Dave.........stock timing is 1 degree advanced.
If your waiting for the V2 version arriving to fine tune I'd set cyls 1-4 at 0 degrees for now and fine tune both banks when the new tool arrives.
If your waiting for the V2 version arriving to fine tune I'd set cyls 1-4 at 0 degrees for now and fine tune both banks when the new tool arrives.
#4
Rennlist Member
Dave,
It reads that you are not far off from stock settings for a cold engine.
Here some info I found in a search Re 32V cam timing:
Loaded wrote:
PorKen wrote:
Cam timing thread ref 1
Cam timing thread ref 2
Cam timing thread ref 3
Hope this helps...
It reads that you are not far off from stock settings for a cold engine.
Here some info I found in a search Re 32V cam timing:
Loaded wrote:
"After doing some searchs about "cam Timing" i found this: The reason for the timing difference on the separate banks is to compensate for the slight discrepancy in belt-tension between the two sides; I would stick to the manuals which were written by the engineers."
"The right side is set retarded slightly per the WSM to compensate for an estimated expansion of the engine at temp, which will advance the valve timing. I would prefer to adjust the timing of both banks to the left side WSM spec, when the engine is warm instead."
"Conservatively, with an auto, measured cold, I'd set it to L:2°, R:1.5°. (3°/2.5° is what I'd put on my own car. ) Then check the right one again when the engine is at running temp, to see if it's equal to the left."
Cam timing thread ref 2
Cam timing thread ref 3
Hope this helps...
#5
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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Thanks Jim....when referring to left/right sides, is that from the front of the car looking back, or from the back of the car looking toward the front? I wish people would refer to cylinder banks instead!
#7
Rennlist Member
Dave,
It's based on driver's POV when sitting in the car. Back of the car looking forward.
I know it seems strange with regards to the engine being that POV is usually from the front of the car looking back
It's based on driver's POV when sitting in the car. Back of the car looking forward.
I know it seems strange with regards to the engine being that POV is usually from the front of the car looking back
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#8
Rennlist Member
Dave,
So, to sum it up. I think you are shooting for equal timing when engine is warm. Then once you have that set, you can advance left and right equally for more midrange (driveable) torque.
So, to sum it up. I think you are shooting for equal timing when engine is warm. Then once you have that set, you can advance left and right equally for more midrange (driveable) torque.
#9
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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So, I should move both cams so that they're at the 0* (middle hole) on the gauge, correct?
I'm getting confused between cam degrees and crank degrees....plus I think I saw somewhere that Ken's tool is actually at 2* crank advance (or was is retard???) when in the middle hole.
I'm starting to feel like I'm retarded.
Ken...help!
I'm getting confused between cam degrees and crank degrees....plus I think I saw somewhere that Ken's tool is actually at 2* crank advance (or was is retard???) when in the middle hole.
I'm starting to feel like I'm retarded.
Ken...help!
#10
Rennlist Member
Ken may still be sleeping...
I think I'll let him take it from here as I'm still learning too. I just started a TB/WP job so you are farther ahead than I.
I think I'll let him take it from here as I'm still learning too. I just started a TB/WP job so you are farther ahead than I.
#12
Inventor
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The original V1 manual used cam°. 1° cam = 2° crank.
Without the alignment kit, the V1 is only truly accurate for restoring what the engine already was adjusted to.
Adv_o_Ret
oooo_oooo
CCW_CW
R = cyls 1-4
L = cyls 5-8
© = WSM dial indicator setting, engine cold
V1 measures
Each hole is 2° crank
L ©: 2° advance (1 hole CCW)
R ©: 1° advance (halfway between 0 and 1 hole CCW)
V2 measures
Each hole is 1° crank.
L ©: 0°.
R ©: 1° retard (1 hole CW)
° = Hold [Alt], type [0][1][7][6] on the numeric keyboard, release [Alt]
Without the alignment kit, the V1 is only truly accurate for restoring what the engine already was adjusted to.
Adv_o_Ret
oooo_oooo
CCW_CW
R = cyls 1-4
L = cyls 5-8
© = WSM dial indicator setting, engine cold
V1 measures
Each hole is 2° crank
L ©: 2° advance (1 hole CCW)
R ©: 1° advance (halfway between 0 and 1 hole CCW)
V2 measures
Each hole is 1° crank.
L ©: 0°.
R ©: 1° retard (1 hole CW)
° = Hold [Alt], type [0][1][7][6] on the numeric keyboard, release [Alt]