Big AL in VA

Well, I have been investigating my overheating problem since I did a top side engine rebuild. Yesterday when I was testing my water pump, a hose clamp vibrated off the hose and fell into the fan. The fan shot it like a bullet into the radiator causing a leak and of course ruining the radiator. Well today I took it off and found, I believe, my overheating problem. I pulled the end caps off both sides of the radiator and look what I found.

Is this stuff that looks like oatmeal, calcium deposits? A good case for NOT buying a used radiator?

I am going to flush the Hell out of my block before installing a new radiator. Geesh another 1000.00 plus.



Big AL from Virginia
1984 928S Euro twin distributor monster with large valve cut outs in the pistons

JHowell37

Before you shell out a bunch of money for a radiator, there's a good shop in Clinton, MD that's run by a couple of Armenian guys. While they don't specialize in Beru radiators, they're very familiar with them. I'd consider having them install new end caps and having them repair the leak. They'll also clean that crap out for you. At a minimum, they'll tell you if they can repair it or not. I can't remember the name of the place but I know that it's off Old Branch Avenue, and really isn't too far from you. It's off exit 7 on the beltway.

mark kibort

how do the end caps seal? how do you get them off? does the water actually flow to the oil cooler sides? or do they just make thermal contact?
curious

Big AL in VA

The end caps have seals and the caps are held in place by bending over tabs. To get them off you have to bend the tabs back. The oil coolers make thermal contact with the water.

Big AL from Virginia
1984 928S Euro twin distributor monster with large valve cut outs in the pistons

Big AL in VA

I'll keep these guys in mind for the future. Unfortunately I broke off several tabs getting my end caps off. Thanks for the info though.

Big AL from Virginia
1984 928s EURO twin distributor monster with large valve cut outs in the pistons.

dr bob

Mark--

Take a look at the bottom picture, where the oil cooler section is shown inside the end tank. The cooler is actuallly a small finned 'radiator in a radiator', where the coolant contacts the ousides of those inner tubes. Pretty cool! Contrast this with the "oil cooler" sections found in many American radiators, where a few feet of plain tubing are looped around through the tank. No fins inside or out, and plain round tube. This should give folks an idea why the auto trans and oil-cooler radiators are just a tad more expensive than a plain-tank radiator. It will also help folks appreciate how critical it is to counter-hold the tube fittings when removing or tighteneing the hoses to those internal coolers!

Bill Ball

Just for reference, I've had the right side endcap replaced twice by a shop and the tabs still look good as new. Broken tabs is a hazard, but the shop uses a tool that minimizes that.

I wonder if that "oatmeal" is a leak sealer somebody else may have tried. Normal mineral deposits are hard and crusty.

JP Rodkey

Good reminder to use distilled water when you refill.

Fogey1

It's still worth talking to a good radiator shop. They may well be able to make you a new radiator for less than a new one would cost to order. BTDT, tho' not on a 928. But radiators aren't rocket science and I got a copper core and brass tanks for less than half what a new aluminum/plastic radiator would have cost.

It might actually BE oatmeal. That's a trick that was reall old-timey when I was a kid fifty years ago.

I always use distilled water. It's cheap and you can make a 50/50 premix in old, empty containers and keep them on hand.

Lizard928

I am going through this now, I got all the tabs up without breaking one, however upon trying to reassemble the new end tank cracked, I have another on order but will see if I can have this one plastic welded.

Bill Ball

Liz: Not too many people have been successful at replacing their own tanks. Did the new one crack from trying to clamp it down to compress the gasket, as must be done before rebending the tabs? Good luck. I do most of my own work, but I let the shop do this.

JP Rodkey

Since the tank's plastic, I would expect one would need a fixture to hold the tank against the radiator with distributed pressure all around - otherwise, the plastic is going to break if you tried to bend one tab at a time?

Bill Ball

Exactly. A few members here have used large clamps across the radiator and have managed to install the tanks. Bending the tabs properly in another question.

JP Rodkey

I suspect you and I have been working on cars about the same amount of time. If there's one thing (well, one of many) I've gotten really skilled at, it's breaking off tabs - any kind, any material.

perrys4

I got my C&R radiator in a couple weeks ago and am a little diappointed in that it doesn't seem to run any cooler than the Behr did and it was the original. Last night on the freeway coming home in rush hour traffice (it ws HOT) I was watching the needle as it climbed up the the 3/4 mark, a place that makes me uncomfortable. I know you cant tell exactly how hot it is running by the needle but I thought the new rad would make a noticable difference. I was afraid to turn on the A/C. Yes my fans work. Just some insight if you are considering a new rad. It is a work of art visually.