Alright todays the day, well this week I suppose. I finally become a true shark owner by doing the timing belt and water pump. I was wondering what the method was for turning the engine to TDC. Also, if anyone has some clear cut instructions on the job that would be great. Seems my pdf version of the version of the factory sevice manual is missing section 15-9. Thanks in advance!!

 

With all due respect, I think you may need to slow down, take a deep breath and do a little more homework before you dive into this.
Glenn

 

I was wondering because my father is telling me there is no way to turn it by hand due to compression. No offense but its my car and I'll decide when I can and can't do a certain job on my car. Its a more precise job with less room for error than previous jobs I've done but I don't see the level of difficulty being any worse than that of a MM and OPG replacement or a master cyclinder replacement. I've been able to do both of those jobs and w/o a factory manual so I don't see why I can't do this

 

I didn't mean to impugn your abilities, but your question seemed to indicate a lack of basic knowledge required. I just wouldn't want to see another thread going like this:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/361001-cam-s-moved.html
Glenn

 

Engine can be rotated by hand through the nut in the centre of the harmonic balancer on the front of the engine ( 27 mm or so IIRC. Socket + extension+ large ratchet / torque wrench) and take your time to over come the compression

 

If I managed to do this job, anyone can, it just takes preparation and research up front to make sure you've got all the tools and parts FIRST, or you're going to be thrashing around and wasting time.


Go to Harbor Freight and buy this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=5494

The 27 mm socket with the 3" extension is plenty with which to turn the motor over. Pulling the plugs will make it easier. Pulling the radiator gives a LOT more room to work, too, though if you've got an auto with all those coolers it's tougher to do.


You also need a Kempf tool and a flywheel lock.

As far as instructions:

http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/tbelt.html

and/or


http://928oc.org/journal/T-belt1.pdf

and/or

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PORSC...spagenameZWDVW


Good luck!

 

If it's the '83 in your sig, I'm sure it's a non-interference motor, so if you mess up the timing it just won't run. You won't run the risk of bending valves.

You should be able to pull it through with a 1/2 socket with the plugs in. You could also pull the plugs out and make it easier on yourself.

Read and research first, then attack. Even with the proper research you can make a mistake, but luck favors the well prepared.

Good luck with it!

 

I don't know what the abreviations are for the first two (MM - millimeter/OPG - other peoples garages?), but a timing belt is not the same as a Master Cylinder. As I am right in the middle of this job, take some advise and follow the answer(s) to your original question, "Also, if anyone has some clear cut instructions on the job that would be great." Follow the link(s) Rob provided and get the book.

Advise not taken can lead to bent valves (maybe not in your case) busted radiators, knuckles, and a LOT of heartache.

I can't believe twice in two days/posts, "I don't need no stinking manual!" I'll get off the box now.

 

As NJSharkFan pointed out, if this is the 83 in your sig, then you have a 16 valve motor. This changes things slightly as most of the documentation is for 32 valve motors. I have yet to find a good Timing Belt write up specifically for 16 valve 928.

16V will be different in several ways. There are no 45 deg timing marks on the harmonic balancer. The tensioner will not have the TB warning light mechanism and you only have 1 distributor, which in my experience did not need to be removed. Also any part numbers in the documentation need to be checked against the PET for 16V motors.

To Rob's tool list I would add ;
Good torque wrench upto 250lbs.

 

Thanks to every one for the help and guidance. I have all the parts, the Kemft tool and the flywheel lock. I just wanted to make sure and as my grandfather pointed out you can turn it from the harmonic balancer. I just didn't want to scrw it up thats all. Thanks again and wish me luck!

 

There are many more potential "gotchas" with this job than the MM and OPG. That is a just a rough, brutish job. This is closer to working on a swiss watch mechanism. The consequences of errors are not great on an 83 than later models, so you are lucky in that regard, but due to MY variations in TB/WP parts you could end up rather mixed up if you don't get the right parts.

The most complete guide so far is John Kelly's which he sells for a nominal fee. I think somebody linked to his eBay listing. I have a small free supplemental guide that has my lessons-learned do's and don'ts and may help you avoid some common pitfalls. The first version below with the WSM sections (which you say you don't have) is 3MB. The other is much smaller (less than 200kB) - same tips but no WSM pages.

Bill's TB/WP Supplement with WSM pages

Bill's TB/WP Supplement w/o WSM pages

As to the crank turning, even with the sparkplugs in you can turn the motor. You need more than your hands, however. It takes 40-50 ft-lbs or so, but with a 27mm socket and a decent 1/2 ratchet, you will be able to work it around. Removing the crank bolt is another thing. Best to use 3/4 drive tools. It is spec'd at 218 ft-lbs, but I have found them to be on MUCH, MUCH tighter, often requiring 4+ foot breaker bars (or a Home Depot water pipe over wrench extension) to get them free.

 

I hope you mean that you can turn it by the crank bolt. Several people have found evidence of turning/locking the crank using the main crank pulley. As stated, I think it's a 27mm (or 1 1/8" I think?) socket. I don't know about the '83MY but for mine you can only turn it in one direction (clockwise facing the car from in front) or you can do some damage to the cam tensioners. I don't know what the 16v cam setup looks like, but that's the way the engine normally turns, so better not to take a chance.

 

In case you haven't checked your emails, Leslie sent you an answer this afternoon about the "missing pages" in the manual; they're not missing, so you should be pointed in the right direction by now.

The package with the timing belt, spark plugs, and all the other stuff we discussed is on its way, but it seems to be taking a slow boat to China on the way, so I hope you didn't get discourage and go ahead and buy another timing belt anyway. I believe you'll have it by the end of this week...though it's still in Brooklyn as of this morning. But it's coming! Promise!

Good luck with the job!

 

Thanks again Kevin. I didn't check my mail yet but I'm sure you've provided sufficient instructions. I've got the Timing Belt Covers off and I'm just waiting for the parts to carry on