linderpat

Went to check and change my foglight fuse this evening (foglights went out) and it was literally melted into the fuse panel. Obviously something must have shorted it, but from where? It was correct size for model year (MY86.5; 15 amp). I removed battery ground strap, cleaned out melted fuse at panel, and was somehow able to insert a new fuse into the panel. Checked/cleaned all other fuses, made sure everything was sized correctly (amazing how many weren't), hooked battery back up, and now fog lights work. Any thoughts? Am I nuts for putting a new fuse back in until I discover root of problem? I struggle with electrical issues (so why do I have a shark? ). What would I do to ring out line for a short? Thoughts?

SharkSkin

Probably had a lousy connection that heated up just enough to melt the plastic. Might want to look for corrosion on the other fuse blades.

MGW-Fla

X 1

linderpat

interesting; I hope that was it. I did change out and clean up a number of the other fuses, and I pulled them all and reinserted a couple of times each. Hopefully, that particular problem won't re-occur....Thanks.

Jerome Craig

You mean like this? I had the same electrical problem with my passenger side cooling fan. My research so far indicates that the white plastic module is not available as an individual part.... it doesn't even have a part number.

Jerome

linderpat

Yes - it was exactly like that. Astonishingly, I was able to put a new fuse into the slot, after I scraped it out with a tiny slot screwdriver (obviously disconnect neg strap for battery in back of car), and it works. The thought of pulling that fuse panel makes me weak kneed! Glad I didn't have to (knock on wood)...

Mrmerlin

It would be a great idea to replace all of your old fuses that right all of them, with a new set they will all have a new surfaces and thus the reduced resistance should let your elex system run the way it was designed. Now for something else if the old fuses are corroded that usually meant the bottom of the Blower box seal is leaking and if so this needs to be fixed before you invest in new fuses.To check just look up under the passenger side dashboard and see if it looks like water has running down the CE panel supports if you see any corrosion or rusty stains then its time to do this repair.If your working on the CE panel make sure to first disconnect your battery, Stan

linderpat

Thanks for the guidance on that. I did pull all out, and only a few were chalky; some I cleaned with steel wool, and some I replaced. I also checked for previous water, but didn't see anything, but I think I will look again where you mention it, just to be sure!

SharkSkin

BTW, Pulling the electrical panel isn't that tough -- main thing on your car (aside from disconnecting the battery first) is getting the power feed wires off the top without dropping the nuts, then you have to pull the latch at the bottom center of the panel to release the plugs along the bottom row. Piece o cake.

linderpat

Dave - your references are the gold standard! This is a job that I must do....

SharkSkin

You might want to ask around for parts -- a number of people have bought used fuse/relay panels to get one relay socket or one fuse block, maybe you can mooch what you need from someone.

Jerome Craig

Roger's got 'em. (But he won't sell me the module I need! )

Jerome

linderpat

bump - how do you remove the fuse blocks? I have a spare ce panel, and I need to repalce one of the fuse blocks (contains slots for 5 fuses). Looks like there are tabs, but I can't get it apart without breaking something....is there a trick?

Calling Alan; Calling Alan, come in Alan

Shark Attack

My internet connection at home is still not fixed and is very slow. I couldn't read everyones response, so sorry if this was already said

happened to me on an 83's headlights. I would have to agree here and say you have an arcing connection somewhere. and the arc is most likley happening at the point of heat

Alan

I have several dissassembled panels - they are actually quite hard to take apart... (without damage) if you need one specific piece its actually a risk that you will break it taking it out.

Having disassembled many panels (at least partially) the fuse blocks do come out (making a special tool helps) but there are many different configurations by block and by year... The blocks are all numbered in sequence (not obvious until you take the panel out). If you want the right fuse block in the right configuration you need to do some detective work.

The fuse panels are two piece - a face plate and the body. The body is what attaches to the panel (inserts & removes from the front) - it has a lock tab centered on each of the long sides... the face plate inserts inside the body from the front and also has 2 tabs on each of the long sides betwen the last 2 fuseholders on each end of each side.

The tabs break off easily if you aren't careful and on some panels I have removed - they break-off whatever you do - they have just become too brittle for some reason. My yield of undamaged fuse blocks is approx 60%... And I have made tools that cause minimum stress on the parts. This was an assembly that was intended to click together - but not really to be taken apart and reused.

To remove the face plate insert 4 thin flat blades (like terminal removal tools) in the slots on the perimeter of the face plate at the front. then use a hook tool to pull up on the center of the face plate. This level of dissassembly allows replacement of individual terminal connectors (which I also have in all configurations (single/dual-gang/triple-gang/quad-gang & fully-ganged).

The removal of the body requires simultaneous release of the 2 side tabs. 2 flat blades from the rear of the panel (between panel & fuse block) and pushing on the body works. But you need to figure out exactly how much force is needed (you get the hang of it after you have broken 2 or 3 - so don't start on the one you really want.

I also have made flat bladed dual hook tool that allow me front access to slip behind the release tabs from the front of the panel then slide around the tabs & pull forward to release the tabs - if you do this you also need a tool to hook into the face plate slots to pull it out. If you remove to whole block first remove (and label) all the connections on the rear...

For a beginner rear realease is best on the body. If you remove the body with the face plate still attached do not push the face plate tabs in from the sides - use the same method for panel installed removal - or you WILL break the tabs...!

If you need these parts I have them:
- Blocks
- Face plates
- Terminals in any configuration

For a complete terminal block in any specific configuration you need - I can provide it to you for $30 + shipping. Its time consuming and is a service more than a money making proposition...

Of course I also have all the other CE panel parts (sockets & frames, relay sockets etc). If you need one specific part buying a whole panel is very expensive and risky because you may not even be able to salvage the exact part you need without damage. Also for some of these parts you need non-reusabale parts like replacement terminals....

Alan