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I have a euro 928 1979 and it smokes.......lots. there's oil in teh bores all the time and seems to be pressurizing the breather system, the compression is good on all 8 cylinders (140), but as mentioned it has oil in the bores all the time, I'm thinking rings as it is suposed to have had reconed heads and the H2o pressure tester didn't drop at all (no gasket failure) the oil is dissapearing fast but the cooling system is clear from contamination, the plugs foul up but it still runs, the only other feature to note is that as soon as it starts the oil pressure goes up to 5 bar and stays there despite what the tickover is at, this is also when the engine is warm/hot. I'm thinking that maybe the relief valve is stuck closed and pumping the oil into the heads due to too much pressure, or the rings have gone and this is preasurising the crankcase adn pushing the oil into the bores that way. Any further ideas would be welcome, need to fix fast as I'm on my way to Toronto at Christmas time.
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Let me get this straight...you've a 924 that turns 10's, and have managed a 924 V8 transplant...and you have a possibly worn '79 928 and cannot decide what to to about it...
You are WAY above our techical level at one point in your post and approximately equal at the other post.
I'm like..."Ok- lets see...this CAR sounds indeed like a good candidate for a rebuild for someone who has a multi million $ house-
But for the rest of us, we are like "How much do you want to spend?"
-Normy wins the lotto [fat chance, considering that I don't gamble-], so suddenly I have a lot of money. AFTER the 50 foot 1950's Chris Craft is moored..I'd pay off my house [$65k] and then...
Well, I guess I don't know what I'd do with the money.
-So how many of you do not really need money? I dont. Above $65k I'd be at a loss-
Another shark? Perhaps. A condo in Key West? Perhaps! The stock market? Perhaps...
Well....
Anyway.
N
You are WAY above our techical level at one point in your post and approximately equal at the other post.
I'm like..."Ok- lets see...this CAR sounds indeed like a good candidate for a rebuild for someone who has a multi million $ house-
But for the rest of us, we are like "How much do you want to spend?"
-Normy wins the lotto [fat chance, considering that I don't gamble-], so suddenly I have a lot of money. AFTER the 50 foot 1950's Chris Craft is moored..I'd pay off my house [$65k] and then...
Well, I guess I don't know what I'd do with the money.
-So how many of you do not really need money? I dont. Above $65k I'd be at a loss-
Another shark? Perhaps. A condo in Key West? Perhaps! The stock market? Perhaps...
Well....
Anyway.
N
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Eh! I have a ROVER in a 924, that's not the issue here, I got the 928 off a friend for £500, I don't know didly about the engies in these cars except you don't take them any where near a Porsche dealer, I can pull the engine and rebuild it, but what happens if I can't find anything wrong, I know that there's unlikly to be damage to the bores, I don't know about the rings, or the oil pump configuration. I can get rings for £108 and hope that is all it is, however I just thought that as this was the place where 928 owners come, they might actually work on there own cars, I guess you have more money than you say you do! Looking at the head schematics the valve guides look quite short and I'm wondering if there prone to wear, as I said the heads are suposedly rebuilt but unless I do the work myself I never trust anybody. So where I stand, I can spend £300 on rings and gaskets-rebuild the engine (spending days scratching my head at the concept of 2 cams) hoping I find something on the way or I can ask people who might be able to shed some light on the subject.
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So....
Is this an engine that you've re-built yourself?
I know that others have been this route - only to find that you cannot use a straight oil mixture for re-assembly. This apparently results in the rings not completely seating properly.
Just a thought....
Is this an engine that you've re-built yourself?
I know that others have been this route - only to find that you cannot use a straight oil mixture for re-assembly. This apparently results in the rings not completely seating properly.
Just a thought....
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I've not touched the car as yet, except to do a compression test (and it took me 25 mins to realise that the screw that I assumed to be part of the injection unit was infact holding down the air filter) and a leakdown test on the cooling system. However if I need to rebuild I'll take that on board, thanks.
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So the heads are "supposed to be reconditioned".
The compression test revealed 140 across all 8 cylinders, no variation between cylinders? Possibly too many unknowns for specific answers.
It is doubtful that the relief valve is causing the engine to smoke that much. I personally, would never put reconditioned heads on an old motor, as this would cause excessive oil to be passed by the rings. Anyone with other ideas?
Anthony Tate 79/928 Silver Metallic. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
BTW, If you plan on doing anything yourself, other than putting gas in it, get a Set of manuals.
The compression test revealed 140 across all 8 cylinders, no variation between cylinders? Possibly too many unknowns for specific answers.
It is doubtful that the relief valve is causing the engine to smoke that much. I personally, would never put reconditioned heads on an old motor, as this would cause excessive oil to be passed by the rings. Anyone with other ideas?
Anthony Tate 79/928 Silver Metallic. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
BTW, If you plan on doing anything yourself, other than putting gas in it, get a Set of manuals.
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I have the manual on disc but I am using a work computer and I can't put any external software in it. I just wanted to see if I could be missing something before ripping the engine out.
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Adie,
This sounds like my 78 Euro when I bought it. It had good compression but was burning oil on 3 cylinders. My valve guides were gone. How was the heads "reconditioned"? Try pulling your intake tubes and check for oil residue in the ports. I was able to check the plugs for oil fouling and just pull the 3 corresponding tubes.
Good luck,
Dennis
This sounds like my 78 Euro when I bought it. It had good compression but was burning oil on 3 cylinders. My valve guides were gone. How was the heads "reconditioned"? Try pulling your intake tubes and check for oil residue in the ports. I was able to check the plugs for oil fouling and just pull the 3 corresponding tubes.
Good luck,
Dennis
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so a rebuild includes new rings but do you use original pistons, new bearings, what? also, how many miles on the engine?
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Hmmm, I think this is sounding rather harder than it actually is, I only need to find the scorce of how the oil is contaminating the intake charge, it's across all 8 cylinders so no one plug is cleaner than the rest, I only need to fix whats broken right! so no, I probably won't need new pistons, just new bearings while I'm there, a gasket set and new rings (if that's indeed the problem), as I said the heads were suposed to be rebuilt but I have no reciept of that ever being done so I was looking towards the valve guides, I just thought some cleverer people than myself might have a few sugestions.
I'm just off to pull the intake tubes, but however this does not explain why the oil pressure goes to max straight away and stays there??
I'm just off to pull the intake tubes, but however this does not explain why the oil pressure goes to max straight away and stays there??
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Adie,
Check to see if the two leads on the oil pressure sender are reversed. I hooked mine up reversed and the pressure gauge pinned at 5. I switched the leads, and all is well now.
Greg
Check to see if the two leads on the oil pressure sender are reversed. I hooked mine up reversed and the pressure gauge pinned at 5. I switched the leads, and all is well now.
Greg
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Adie,
Can you do a leakdown test for each cylinder? Stats on compression test indicate the valve guides, but the rapid (need to define this for us) consumption of oil is an important indicator.
Have you run the engin at various rpms for some meaningful period of time?
Get the PO to tell you who "reconditioned" the heads and find out what the work included.
The oil pressure is a guage thing, has to be....the oil filter has a blowby built in....I bet the leads are reversed as previously mentioned...
Can you do a leakdown test for each cylinder? Stats on compression test indicate the valve guides, but the rapid (need to define this for us) consumption of oil is an important indicator.
Have you run the engin at various rpms for some meaningful period of time?
Get the PO to tell you who "reconditioned" the heads and find out what the work included.
The oil pressure is a guage thing, has to be....the oil filter has a blowby built in....I bet the leads are reversed as previously mentioned...
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Have you checked the oil level?
Almost sounds like it's a couple liters overfilled, resulting in excessive blow-by.
That would be way too easy...
Almost sounds like it's a couple liters overfilled, resulting in excessive blow-by.
That would be way too easy...
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Thanks! thanks! thanks!, OK, Previous owner dead so not able to contact him without a medium, wife sold the car as it was sitting in the garage due to smoke, I can't run the car for mare than 5 mins as the smoke really is that bad, it's certainly not drivable further than 100 yards, it's abviously worse on static acceleration or under load, and for about 1 hour of running it it goes from normal oil level to half way down the dipstick. I'm in the process of looking for the oilsender now, the manual is on disc and taking a hell of a long time to get through. when the puter doesn't crash. Many thanks for the input
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Is that 1 hour at idle? WOW that is at least 4 quarts of oil.......That is not blow by. Something else is wrong.