FRONT Bilstein/Eibach install question (UPDATE: MISSION FAILURE)
Under the Lift
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From: Buckeye, AZ
The threads on the rod look too delicate for this work. Probably not dangerous, but I would not expect that set to hold up very well, so be gentle with it. I use a rattle gun on the Lisle unit and it has not shown any signs of wear.
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From: Sydney AUS
Don't worry about the threads worry about the "grip" on the spring that the "hands" that hold the spring have. Having had a spring compressor decide it was going to slide off the spring not even a 928 spring but of a small front wheel drive car, had the front strut assembly vertical in the carpenters vice and i suddenly heard the creaks as the compresser started to slip. Retreated to the far end of the garage and waited and waited, now and then a bit more movement, but I wasn't going back near it. So after an hour or so I went back in and started poking it with the longest piece of timber I could find - eventually it came off. The 1st compressor came off and tried to go into orbit - fortunately hitting a flat roof joist (a piece of 8"x2") and embedded the threaded part 4" into the joist. The second compressor came off about 30 seconds later and made it out of the garage through the 3/4" ply roof decking and 3 layers of felt landing and ended up in the gutter of the tiled roof one storey further up.
Respect for those compressed spring forces is required.
I now use ratchet straps (at least two) in addition to spring compressors.
Respect for those compressed spring forces is required.
I now use ratchet straps (at least two) in addition to spring compressors.
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From: Nova Scotia
Purchase two sets of the threaded rod style compressors ..... and always use three compressors per spring: this makes the process far safer, and limits the amount that a compressor rod can slip sideways.
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Drifting
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Oklahoma
Well, I tried today and was unsuccessful. First, I cut 3.5 inches off the spring compressors so they would clear the upper A arm. Then I loosened the upper shock mount nuts, followed by removing the lower pivot pin. After that, I went to work with the spring compressor.
I took it slowly, being cautious to observe any slippage of the "hands" or stripping of the threads. No problems with the function of the tool. However, the compressing of the spring simply did not shorten the height of the overall package sufficient to swing the top out. Not even close.
It looked so easy beforehand...
I went back and looked at Tony's writeup, which is excellent, but decided it was more involved than what I'm comfortable doing. So, I buttoned everything back up and will take it to my trusty independent Porsche mechanic in the near future.
Thanks everyone for your input and advise.
I took it slowly, being cautious to observe any slippage of the "hands" or stripping of the threads. No problems with the function of the tool. However, the compressing of the spring simply did not shorten the height of the overall package sufficient to swing the top out. Not even close.
It looked so easy beforehand...
I went back and looked at Tony's writeup, which is excellent, but decided it was more involved than what I'm comfortable doing. So, I buttoned everything back up and will take it to my trusty independent Porsche mechanic in the near future.
Thanks everyone for your input and advise.
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From: Australia
Two comments, noting that mine is an 83 - I got my front assemblies out , with some difficulty, by dropping the bottom arm fixings, allowing it to swing freely, which allows you to pivot the upper arm as high as it can go, and threading the assembly through the top arm. There is not much space to do this, and if S4 top arms are narrower inside , it might be impossible. I used simple threaded rod spring compressors to dismantle the springs - they were german in origin, and where those pictured above had only pins to locate the spring, mine has bolts that positively clamped the spring wire in the finger, and reduced (but not eliminated) the possibility of movement. The front springs are pretty fierce, and I could see the rods bend in the middle, so I treated the process with a lot of respect, always keeping myself and others out of the line of fire. I would never try to use these in a confined space.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
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From: Sydney AUS
Having had my fair share of Spring compressor incidents and struggled with the front springs on the SE and the GT I decided enough was enough and made this adaptor to use my 20 ton shop press as a spring compressor
3" OD 1/8" wall thickness steel tube 5" long with a hole 2" by 2" cut in it big enough to get the nut on and turn a spanner at least 1/12th turn.
3" OD 1/8" wall thickness steel tube 5" long with a hole 2" by 2" cut in it big enough to get the nut on and turn a spanner at least 1/12th turn.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Davidsonville, MD
I changed out mine by loosening the bolts for both control arms. I pulled the bottom bolt out of the shock and separated the upper ball joint. This allowed the lower control arm swing down and it allowed the upper control to move freely. Remove the 3 bolts on top of the shock and it takes some maneuvering, but the ball peen hammer will encourage it.
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From: saratoga, ca
cut 1 coil out of the spring. this will make the spring stiffer and lower the ride hight (or not if you screw up the adjuster) it also will remove all the problems of needing a spring compressor. lousy design of the springs 
Mk
Mk
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Abbotsford B.C.
I think it would be best to thread the spring perch higher up the shock if you cut a link out of the spring.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: an unnatural suburban habitat
A huge time saver is to remove the shock nut before lifting the car, then you lift the car, remove the wheel and lower shock bolt and the shock can pull out of the spring. You need to push the shock shaft down and it helps to drop the lower control arm also, but very do-able.
I was able to do both fronts in 2 hours this way. The rears can be even quicker, so I bet 4 hours to do all new shocks/springs is possible.
I have done maybe 6 or 7 928 suspension swaps, so I am learning more short cuts.
Don't forget to clean and grease the shock body threads. I use 1/2 antiseize and 1/2 Bel Ray grease mix.
Also: if you take really good ride height measurements you can adjust the new stuff to the same height and not screw up your alignment. The new eibachs will keep sagging for (in my experience) 2 months, so keep checking the ride height and raising it to the correct height.
I was able to do both fronts in 2 hours this way. The rears can be even quicker, so I bet 4 hours to do all new shocks/springs is possible.
I have done maybe 6 or 7 928 suspension swaps, so I am learning more short cuts.
Don't forget to clean and grease the shock body threads. I use 1/2 antiseize and 1/2 Bel Ray grease mix.
Also: if you take really good ride height measurements you can adjust the new stuff to the same height and not screw up your alignment. The new eibachs will keep sagging for (in my experience) 2 months, so keep checking the ride height and raising it to the correct height.
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Abbotsford B.C.
928andRC51,
I have done this a few times as well, with swapping over the hats onto the new springs and shocks, it took about 4 hours to redo all 4 corners.
I did a swap from the old shocks in my 81 to a set of lightly used bilstein eibach setup that came preassembled, it took about 2.5 hours to do all 4 corners.
I am expecting about 3-4 hours to re and re my suspension with the hypercoil kit tomorrow, they are all assembled and ready to go, but I am doing the upper a arms at the same time. and solid steering rack bushings.
I have done this a few times as well, with swapping over the hats onto the new springs and shocks, it took about 4 hours to redo all 4 corners.
I did a swap from the old shocks in my 81 to a set of lightly used bilstein eibach setup that came preassembled, it took about 2.5 hours to do all 4 corners.
I am expecting about 3-4 hours to re and re my suspension with the hypercoil kit tomorrow, they are all assembled and ready to go, but I am doing the upper a arms at the same time. and solid steering rack bushings.
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From: Bristow, VA
Those are the same spring compressors I used. I unbolted the lower arm from the frame, holding most of the assembly up with one of the 3 jacks I had lying around, then removed the shocks through the bottom. This was on my '87 S4. Didn't have to touch the top arm bolts at all. Did I get lucky?
Under the Lift
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From: Buckeye, AZ
A huge time saver is to remove the shock nut before lifting the car, then you lift the car, remove the wheel and lower shock bolt and the shock can pull out of the spring. You need to push the shock shaft down and it helps to drop the lower control arm also, but very do-able.