FRONT Bilstein/Eibach install question (UPDATE: MISSION FAILURE)
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Drifting
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From: Oklahoma
FRONT Bilstein/Eibach install question (UPDATE: MISSION FAILURE)
Emboldened by my success in replacing the rear coilovers, I've now turned my attention to the fronts. 
Tonight I removed the front left wheel for a look. After giving it a once-over, I questioned whether it would be possible to "pull" the coilover down and swing it out with the benefit of a spring compressor. After a bit of research, I ran across this on Pirtle's website:
Looks like it would work to me. The hardest part is probably getting the lower pivot pin nuts off. Anyone here try this method? Andrew, Bill, Stan???
Tonight I removed the front left wheel for a look. After giving it a once-over, I questioned whether it would be possible to "pull" the coilover down and swing it out with the benefit of a spring compressor. After a bit of research, I ran across this on Pirtle's website:
Quick method for those not wishing to remove either the top wishbone or the bottom arm. Raise car, place on stands and remove the front wheel. Release the top three bolts under the hood and also the lower shock pin/bolt. Place spring compressors as far apart as possible and compress until the top spring holder and rubber bushing comes free. Undo the central top nut so that the shock can drop a little within the coil.
Twist the shock so that the lower bushing runs 45 degrees to the line of the car and points towards the center of the rear axle. It will be found now that the shock can now cant at an angle dropping behind and inside of the lower arm and allowing the spring to come free and pass outside of the top inner wing. Once in this position the assembly can be removed and when out of the car, the compressor taken off. The new springs, being shorter didn't require the spring compressor to assemble and went in very easily in the reverse of the above. Also as this combination is shorter it could have the central top nut positioned and tightened, ie. as a coilover. Enter the same way, with lower bushing at a 45 degree angle twist into position once in place. I think writing to make sense is more difficult than the actual job.
Twist the shock so that the lower bushing runs 45 degrees to the line of the car and points towards the center of the rear axle. It will be found now that the shock can now cant at an angle dropping behind and inside of the lower arm and allowing the spring to come free and pass outside of the top inner wing. Once in this position the assembly can be removed and when out of the car, the compressor taken off. The new springs, being shorter didn't require the spring compressor to assemble and went in very easily in the reverse of the above. Also as this combination is shorter it could have the central top nut positioned and tightened, ie. as a coilover. Enter the same way, with lower bushing at a 45 degree angle twist into position once in place. I think writing to make sense is more difficult than the actual job.
Last edited by JWise; May 21, 2007 at 12:09 AM.
Supercharged
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I'm not sure... maybe you can do it. How are the ball joint boots? Personally, I subscribe to the Tony method. It's only a few extra bolts and goes very quickly.
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Drifting
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From: Oklahoma
How are the ball joint boots?
After my last post, I went back out to the car (which was still raised and the wheel removed). I was able to loosen the lower pivot pin nuts, and of course the top shock mount nuts were easy to loosen as well. It sure looks like simply compressing the spring would shorten the height of the coilover enough to pull it out.
I've since buttoned things back up, so I can't inspect the boots right now. However, I'll give them a look next time...
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Try this way, it was relatively easy after removing the inner liner. Ed https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/273754-easier-way-for-front-strut-removal-on-85-a.html
Under the Lift
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In my experience, pulling out from the top does not work on S4 or later. Not enough clearance at the shock tower. I've done it on earlier cars, but that still requried a little prying to get the upper shock studs past the lip on the shock tower. Others claim you can get them out the top on an S4. Give it a try, as avoiding removal of the lower A-arm from its mounts is a good idea. Regardless, in Ed's pics it looks like he has the lower A-arm removed from the body, so with a little "screwing" of the springs through the upper A-arm (held horizontal), the shock will drop out the bottom.
Last edited by Bill Ball; May 19, 2007 at 01:30 PM.
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From: New Berlin, WI
I did one side out the bottom and the other side like Ed, out the top. Out the top is easier by a fair margin. Have an early '86, there is some arguement as to the R&r differences on this part. You still need to have the lower arm pivot bolts out - I seem to recall the write-up isn't real clear on that point. Most people are leery about handling compressed springs while they are being manipulated. Keep in mind a "good" compressor is hundreds of dollars - the ones we typically use are fifty bucks (at least mine is US made so I can sue somebody if it breaks - only kidding, please).
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Originally Posted by JWise
........ It sure looks like simply compressing the spring would shorten the height of the coilover enough to pull it out.......
I removed the coilovers per Tonys web site and after almost taking my head off using a POS rental spring compressor, bought super duty tools from a big city supplier.
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From: Double Oak, TX
Jarrod,
Just finished mine at the front - pictures later with new kenesis wheels.
I have the top ball joint covers in stock if you need them - hard to find.
I also have the lower tie rod ends in stock if your boots/covers are shot like mine were.
On the lowers it is cheaper to replace the tie rod end complete with boot than buy the boot itself.
In fact I could never find the part number for the boot on its own.
Good luck,
Roger
Just finished mine at the front - pictures later with new kenesis wheels.
I have the top ball joint covers in stock if you need them - hard to find.
I also have the lower tie rod ends in stock if your boots/covers are shot like mine were.
On the lowers it is cheaper to replace the tie rod end complete with boot than buy the boot itself.
In fact I could never find the part number for the boot on its own.
Good luck,
Roger
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
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From: Nova Scotia
I have a set of Konis to go on a friends '86.5 ... and will happily try Ed's method: in his link, you will find my note on loosening the lower control arm and leaving the ball joint untouched: this method works well, but be sure to eat your wheaties first, for it is an armful to wrestle in place.
Years ago I did the spring compressors on the car trick - never again!
BTW ... post #5000 ticked in .... how verbose can one be??
Years ago I did the spring compressors on the car trick - never again!
BTW ... post #5000 ticked in .... how verbose can one be??
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Drifting
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From: Oklahoma
OK, now you guys are scaring me regarding the spring compressor. I'll take a look at it, but safety will be paramount. I may well utilize another method.
Roger- I'll look at all the boots while I'm in there. I do know the tie rod on the passenger side was replaced as a requirement following the PPI when I bought the car last fall.
Thanks everyone for your input. I have a golf tournament and and wedding to attend today, so I'll get after it Sunday afternoon.
Roger- I'll look at all the boots while I'm in there. I do know the tie rod on the passenger side was replaced as a requirement following the PPI when I bought the car last fall.
Thanks everyone for your input. I have a golf tournament and and wedding to attend today, so I'll get after it Sunday afternoon.
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I have used a Lisle 62300 spring compressor for 6 sets of shock/spring changes and it still is in very good shape. It sells for $40-65 depending on source. I found it at my local independent autoparts store. I bought a SIMILAR looking spring compressor from Harbor Freight that was downright dangerous and disintegrated on first use. The Lisle tool is sturdy and will work well for the home mechanic.
http://www.google.com/products?q=lisle+62300&hl=en
http://www.google.com/products?q=lisle+62300&hl=en
Thread Starter
Drifting
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From: Oklahoma
Here's what I picked up at Autozone. Are the Taiwanese better toolmakers than the Chinese? I sure hope so.
I hereby agree to hold harmless the providers of opinion and advice regarding the appropriateness, or lack thereof, of using this tool.
I hereby agree to hold harmless the providers of opinion and advice regarding the appropriateness, or lack thereof, of using this tool.
Three Wheelin'
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From: Cleburne,Tx
Jarrod, those are the same as mine, but I found that cutting about 3-4 inch's off the threaded part makes the job a little easier, they seem to hit the upper a-arm when you compress the springs in the car during removal.
Good luck
Good luck