72Audi

I will try to clarify... Rod in center is the so called "interior" shift rod that goes outside the case and connects to the main shift tube above the torque tube. Now look at the bottom of the photo (in post #77) and you will see where the arm rests properly in the depression of the 2/3 shift rod. At the top of the photo you can see that the arm does not rest properly above the depression in the 4/5 shift rod. It rests too far to the right in the photo. What this means in reality is that 2/3 shifts can be done easily (which is the way Porsche wants it) but that to engage 4th or 5th gear one would have to pull back slightly on the shift **** (moving the interior shift rod forward a few millimeters), then move the shift **** to the right to engage the 4/5 shift rod.
Just wondering if this is normal,..... why would they force the driver to move the shift **** back at all to engage 4th or 5th gear. Just not sensical.

*** Note: remember the shift rod that connects to the transmission (aft of the shifter ****) moves forward when the shifter is moved backwards. This is because the shift tube in front stays stationary and the rear tube is mounted slightly under the front tube .... underneath the shift ****. (see diagram).

Bruce Toski

John V

Is it the way that picture was taken or is that lower shift finger bent? The lower portion looks bent to the left causing the upper finger pawl to seem slightly forward (to the right) of the notch in the upper selector shaft. Also I'm not real familiar with the BW synchros but the dog teeth in first gear seem awfully close to be in the nueral position.

72Audi

Yah I see what you mean ..... this is what I am worried about .... that it is bent.
See post #76 for specs I posted on the synchro gaps. I think you are right about that too.
BT

UPDATE:
Here is how it sits with shift rod removed.
Looks ok here !

Vilhuer

So it was second option that you are asking. Its normal. Probably 4th and 5th would go in ok even with that slight misalignment. Not much can be done about it if gearbox front end pins want those selector rod that way.

Edit: Bent selector is another matter. Still they do not always aling perfectly and yet gearbox works.

72Audi

Erkka,

Thanks for fixin the pics in your post.
The torsion spring in my 88 appears to be made of a different steel.

1982 parts diagram does not illustrate the tension spring

1991 parts book show it as item #13 but with two part #s:
928 303 034 09 (number you posted)
928 303 306 01 (no idea what this is)

Attached is a screen shot of page nine out of the extra training manual for V8 MT cars. It explains the changeover to the torsion spring that we are discussing here.

My spring looks to be in good shape.
(can't see how to post pics "in" between my text like you guys ...)

BToski

John V

Bruce,

it looks better in the updated pic. Any chance the shaft is bent or the bore in the finger is trashed??

Vilhuer

Change from coil spring to flat spring was done at same time as syncro change, for -85 MY. There are two versions of flat spring. Drawing shows early version while S4 and later use late style, same as in your picture. Count yourself lucky when spring is ok. I would change it just to be on safe side even though there is no visible signs of problems. $$$ is much better spend on it than some of the factory tools for example.

928 303 306 01 is most likely bolt through gearbox casing at lower end of 928 303 034 09. There are two versions of this also. Early one has circlip which holds lower end on the bold and spacer on other side against gearbox casing. S4 and later have only bolt. This makes it easier to change flat spring without taking out almost entire gearbox content. Though its possible to do change also on circlip version just by removing cover and pushing 4-5 selector rod out from fork.

72Audi

1) Severals shift rods damaged, scored, bludgeoned on the ends. (guess they are not familiar with "brass" punches.

2) wrong lock washer installed on one or both of the adjustable shift forks. One had a sharp cut lock washer while the other bolt had "two" wave lock washers. Parts books show identical lock washer for each bolt, N 011 525 13

3) The interior shift rod was bludgeoned on the end toward the diff. But I really struggled with 1/R shift rod. One of the roll pins was bashed to hell and came out with excessive force (others came out fine). Then I discovered that the 1/R shift fork was not moving on the shaft easily. It took me an hour just to remove this shaft because the fork was scored internally and excessively tight on the 1/R shift rod. (see pics). It looks like the end of this shaft was ground down on a bench grinder. Once again it appears they did not use a brass punch when they should have.



BToski

Vilhuer

Pin on the left in you last picture is used with these:



Early style roller arm on left and late on right. S4 uses late style.

72Audi

I am planning on changing these as I plan to remove them during case cleaning.

1st pic is case parts off 88 PET
Note items #4, #5 and #35

#5 is called as a Wellendichtring which translates to "rotary shaft seal".
I think the "*" next to the PN denotes that this seal - 928 303 120 01 - comes in the main gasket set ?

#4 is called a Führungsbuchse which translates to "guide bush."
928 301 502 03 $20.00 from 928 Specialists
"guide bush" is the cage plus the bearing inside ?

#35 is called a Lagerbuchse which translates to "bearing sleeve" or "bushing"
http://dict.leo.org/?lang=en&lp=ende
Is this the caged ball bearing inside #4 ?
999 203 003 00 $11.00 from 928 Specialists who call it a LINEAR BALL BEARING

It appears that the interior shift rod uses this #35 bearing at both ends, so I will need two.

Pic two shows the bearing in the forward section of the case. It has quite a bit of room to slide back and forth inside the housing there ! Have no idea how the circlip is going to be removed either !

BToski

Vilhuer

#5 is included in gasket set.

There is no need to change #4. It can remain in.

#35 is ball bearing I was writing about earlier in additional parts to change to your long list. The ones which loose their *****. It includes that partly broken pipe in your picture. ***** and pipe comes out in one piece. So its not circlip you are seeing in there. Pipe has inwards bend ends to hold ball gage in. Just pull or push that pipe out.

72Audi

Looks like the pn for the roll pin (only one) for the arm in your pic is:
900 309 013 00

The roll pins (three total) used on the 1/R and interior shift rod arm are:
N 013 317 1

I think you just brought a critical point to my attention.
Although these all appear to measure out as 5mm x 28mm roll pins, the singular pin #900 309 013 00 appears to be less "hollow" that the other pins, and it sure looks like the neanderthal rebuilder mixed them all up.

Think I will order them all up and change them all at this point.

Bruce Toski

BC

But you can replace #4 and the reason is that it can be beat up and bit. At least mine was.

72Audi

Mine does look beat as well (externally) and have no idea why at this point ...

BToski

BC

To be realistic, and candid, to get some of those selector shafts out, you do have to beat them into submission. Some others fell out. But I am not a "professional" being paid 2700 to rebuild a trans.