Rebuilding 1988 manual transaxle after wasting $2710 at local shop
#16
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Anti rattle wave clip missing for LH brake line
One wonders if ..... instead of removing the caliper and tying it up .... they unscrewed the brake line here ...... then lost the wave clip. Better bleed the brakes back here when after reassembly ...
Anyone have a clip for sale !?
Anyone have a clip for sale !?
#17
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Removed damaged halfshaft RH side
Good design here. Halfshaft can be removed by simply loosening the 8? allen head bolts on the inboard end and removing the large nut at the outboard end, moving the inboard end of the halfshaft toward the gas tank and withdrawing the whole halfshaft under the car. Not expecting replacement of the outer boot to go this easy ......
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Exhaust system removal aft of cats
This turned out easier than I expected. First I loosened the two clamps at the rear muffler and the 13mm? bolts at the bottom of the exhaust hangers. Comes right off. The slip joint at the rear of the cats is a different story. Had to hit the center mufflers with my huge rawhide mallet to knock them backward off the slip joint. Overall not too bad though. Better than my 72 Audi !!!
BT
BT
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wiring harness hold downs .... gone
I found several areas where the rubber harness holder was shot or gone.
Looks like they used some poor material here.
The local shop seems to like the tie wrap harness idea.
These rubber hold downs still available ?
If anyone has the part number handy plz post it.
Need a bunch of these buggers.
BT
Looks like they used some poor material here.
The local shop seems to like the tie wrap harness idea.
These rubber hold downs still available ?
If anyone has the part number handy plz post it.
Need a bunch of these buggers.
BT
#21
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Transaxle assembly removed, on the ground
The rear end of the transaxle was heavier than I thought ... had to reposition my jack .... twas not easy after the fact....
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Twisted harness .... another shortcut .....
Because they were too lazy to follow the harness up into the battery area and unplug it there ..... they twisted the SOB like crazy installing this sensor into the front of the transaxle. Way to go you slobs ....
#23
Former Vendor
Those wires pull straight out of the reverse light switch you pictured. You went about this the hard way. As long as the suspension has to be pulled, take it out 1st and move it to the side. The torque tube and transmission will hold themselves up with a piece of wood on the rear bracket that goes across the bottom of the hump. Then all you have to remove is the transmission by itself...much easier to wrestle around.
The transmission you are taking apart has "Borg Warner" style syncros, not the same as the "Porsche" stykle syncros inside the 1981 gearbosx that was taken apart in the other thread. The style syncros in the gearbox you are taking apart need time to "break into" the cone that they use on the gear to work properly. While it is possible that they didn't do this job properly, I hope you allowed plenty of time for the syncros to "bed" into the hubs....this can take quite a few miles, especially if the gearoil they used was too slippery. The syncros rely on friction to slow down the gears. If the gearoil is too slippery, they will take forever to break in!
gb
The transmission you are taking apart has "Borg Warner" style syncros, not the same as the "Porsche" stykle syncros inside the 1981 gearbosx that was taken apart in the other thread. The style syncros in the gearbox you are taking apart need time to "break into" the cone that they use on the gear to work properly. While it is possible that they didn't do this job properly, I hope you allowed plenty of time for the syncros to "bed" into the hubs....this can take quite a few miles, especially if the gearoil they used was too slippery. The syncros rely on friction to slow down the gears. If the gearoil is too slippery, they will take forever to break in!
gb
#25
Nordschleife Master
Sorry to hear. Thats exactly why I work on my own cars. Took a Porsche dealer to court years ago and got most of my money refunded on a bad clutch job they did. I wish you luck!
#26
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by 72Audi
Because they were too lazy to follow the harness up into the battery area and unplug it there ..... they twisted the SOB like crazy installing this sensor into the front of the transaxle. Way to go you slobs ....
What a horror story. These guys are off the charts in terms of their commitment to fu(king up everything they can at each opportunity. It's extraordinary in its completeness.
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loom disconnect at reverse light switch
Originally Posted by GregBBRD
Those wires pull straight out of the reverse light switch you pictured. You went about this the hard way. As long as the suspension has to be pulled, take it out 1st and move it to the side. The torque tube and transmission will hold themselves up with a piece of wood on the rear bracket that goes across the bottom of the hump. Then all you have to remove is the transmission by itself...much easier to wrestle around.
The transmission you are taking apart has "Borg Warner" style syncros, not the same as the "Porsche" stykle syncros inside the 1981 gearbosx that was taken apart in the other thread. The style syncros in the gearbox you are taking apart need time to "break into" the cone that they use on the gear to work properly. While it is possible that they didn't do this job properly, I hope you allowed plenty of time for the syncros to "bed" into the hubs....this can take quite a few miles, especially if the gearoil they used was too slippery. The syncros rely on friction to slow down the gears. If the gearoil is too slippery, they will take forever to break in!
gb
The transmission you are taking apart has "Borg Warner" style syncros, not the same as the "Porsche" stykle syncros inside the 1981 gearbosx that was taken apart in the other thread. The style syncros in the gearbox you are taking apart need time to "break into" the cone that they use on the gear to work properly. While it is possible that they didn't do this job properly, I hope you allowed plenty of time for the syncros to "bed" into the hubs....this can take quite a few miles, especially if the gearoil they used was too slippery. The syncros rely on friction to slow down the gears. If the gearoil is too slippery, they will take forever to break in!
gb
2) Not sure I follow you with the suspension removal procedure. Can't see how that would be easier.
3) The rebuilder told me the same thing about "drive the car and give it some time ... it will shift better. I don't have that much time for a process that may never happen. ( reread my actual complaints about shifting). Lapping in synchros is a well established procedure when rebuilding manual transmissions. This wear in procedure you refer to - if necessary with any particular synchro combination - should be done on the bench with lapping paste ... IMHO. Can you see millionares at the dealer being told on a test drive ...." It will shift better in about 10,000 miles. Drive the car like a macho German in the meantime !"
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I paid with cash
Originally Posted by Sterling
idiots. I would document the entire thing to your credit card company and dispute the charges if you used a credit card... hopefully you did...
1) Advise the State of Florida that they went over the allowed 10% on their estimate.
2) File with the Better Business Bureau
3) Call "Help me Howard !"
4) Picket in front of their lame business
5) Sue them in Small Claims Court ( $5,000.00)
BT
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removal of the transaxle
Originally Posted by V2Rocket_aka944
Cant you just unbolt the halfshafts and the mount to the car, along with the bolts from the TT and drop it like on the 944? Or is it that different?
I think we are saying the same thing, except I said halfshafts do not even need to be removed till the whole assy is on the ground.
BT