New Product: Upper A Arms for Late Model 928
#61
You do not need to send us a core but they will cost $495 each without.
#62
Jim do they have the original style bushings installed? The OEM style bushings had a metal sleeve inserted into a rubber bushing. I have tried to find those original type of bushings everywhere including in Germany. I was told that they are only available as an part of an original upper control arm; buy the whole arm or nothing. I am curious to know how you scored the bushings to install into rebuildable arms?
#67
The company we are using is in Europe and they do have a rubber bushing but it appears to have a bronze sleeve inside as they move very nicely. They have been building suspension parts for 20+ years but communication has been difficult as they do not speak much English. They just shipped me 2 pair of remanufactuerd lower arms that I am anxious to see. The quality of the upper arms is incredible.
As it turns out, the new ones have more play in them than my originals I took out. I had to do some explaining to the technician in order to pass inspection. He was sure I had something loose in the front end.
Carl, I'd like to know if the ones you installed also have play in them. When I grab the front tire at the top and bottom and wiggle it, I can get the upper A-arm bushings to actually make a tiny clicking sound along with the general sloppiness of them.
As a newbie wrencher, I'm learning that the real work in doing your own wrenching is diagnosing. Actually changing the upper A-arms wasn't that bad of a chore, but getting information on how much these buggers should wiggle around was imprecise. Had I been able to get precise information, I would not have replaced my upper A-arms.
#68
As it turns out, the new ones have more play in them than my originals I took out. I had to do some explaining to the technician in order to pass inspection. He was sure I had something loose in the front end.
Carl, I'd like to know if the ones you installed also have play in them. When I grab the front tire at the top and bottom and wiggle it, I can get the upper A-arm bushings to actually make a tiny clicking sound along with the general sloppiness of them.
As a newbie wrencher, I'm learning that the real work in doing your own wrenching is diagnosing. Actually changing the upper A-arms wasn't that bad of a chore, but getting information on how much these buggers should wiggle around was imprecise. Had I been able to get precise information, I would not have replaced my upper A-arms.
Carl, I'd like to know if the ones you installed also have play in them. When I grab the front tire at the top and bottom and wiggle it, I can get the upper A-arm bushings to actually make a tiny clicking sound along with the general sloppiness of them.
As a newbie wrencher, I'm learning that the real work in doing your own wrenching is diagnosing. Actually changing the upper A-arms wasn't that bad of a chore, but getting information on how much these buggers should wiggle around was imprecise. Had I been able to get precise information, I would not have replaced my upper A-arms.
#70
You can MOVE the arm in and out against the bushing with a prybar - the rubber will compress a bit under pressure, but there should be no "play", "clicking", or "sloppiness". A standard condition test prior to alignment should not show any movement unless you've got Godzilla for an alignment tech.
#71
I totally agree with Bill. There went that balloon.
I'll keep praying that someone will make some original bushings and sell them separately from the A-arms. Wiggling suspension parts is NOT a Porsche trait.
I'll keep praying that someone will make some original bushings and sell them separately from the A-arms. Wiggling suspension parts is NOT a Porsche trait.
#72
+2 on the curious list...
I am "inline" for a pair of these, so we shall see soon.
My primary concern is the quality of the outer ball joint end. I can deal with the larger bushing, if need be. Hopefully, this will not be the case...considering the cost.
$0.02
I am "inline" for a pair of these, so we shall see soon.
My primary concern is the quality of the outer ball joint end. I can deal with the larger bushing, if need be. Hopefully, this will not be the case...considering the cost.
$0.02
#73
+3
Well after what has been written I am now skeptical about the rebuilt upper A-arm units. I hope it’s just a one-off (one bad rebuilt a-arm) but if that were the case there should only be sloppiness on one side of Greg’s car. (Clearly not the case). At least with Carl’s units he would be directly involved with the manufacture of his A-arms and can insure that the ball joints used are as good or if not better than the originals.
My .02 cents
Dan 1990 928GT
Well after what has been written I am now skeptical about the rebuilt upper A-arm units. I hope it’s just a one-off (one bad rebuilt a-arm) but if that were the case there should only be sloppiness on one side of Greg’s car. (Clearly not the case). At least with Carl’s units he would be directly involved with the manufacture of his A-arms and can insure that the ball joints used are as good or if not better than the originals.
My .02 cents
Dan 1990 928GT
#75
Thanks for all the input. Its what makes the Forum work.
I will have one of 928 Internationals Late Model upper A Arms on the vendor table at Road America this 3-day race weekend. So stop by and examine it up-close and form your own opinions. They do pivot on the crossbar much easier than stock, which I take as a plus. Using the compressed rubber bushings to provide anti-dive is a manufactuirers effort and not ideal. Use the shock settings to provide anti-dive like they are designed for. This is one of the reason people who have installed polyurethane upper a arm bushings like them.
If I continue to hear more from you fells about the steel upper a arm, I will re-visit the decision to shelve the product.
One of you mentioned the ball joint I used. I did not use one - we used a true spherical heim joint like they use at Indy, Formula 1, etc. They are faster-acting and more precise, but because they are unable to be greased, they have a shorter life. If I bring out the steel arm, I probably will tag it for "race purposes only". Still, many 928's are lucky if they get 10,000 miles a year - so it should not be a problem.
I will have one of 928 Internationals Late Model upper A Arms on the vendor table at Road America this 3-day race weekend. So stop by and examine it up-close and form your own opinions. They do pivot on the crossbar much easier than stock, which I take as a plus. Using the compressed rubber bushings to provide anti-dive is a manufactuirers effort and not ideal. Use the shock settings to provide anti-dive like they are designed for. This is one of the reason people who have installed polyurethane upper a arm bushings like them.
If I continue to hear more from you fells about the steel upper a arm, I will re-visit the decision to shelve the product.
One of you mentioned the ball joint I used. I did not use one - we used a true spherical heim joint like they use at Indy, Formula 1, etc. They are faster-acting and more precise, but because they are unable to be greased, they have a shorter life. If I bring out the steel arm, I probably will tag it for "race purposes only". Still, many 928's are lucky if they get 10,000 miles a year - so it should not be a problem.