Nicole

As part of my coolant hose replacement project, I had to remove the coolant reservoir tonight. This looked so easy at first, but there were lots of complications to deal with...

The reserooir is held in place by two bolts - one in front, and one behind. So I thought I'd just disconnect the hoses, remove those bolts, and take out the reservoir. Nooooooooooooooooooooo - not on a shark. It holds on to each little part with his gazillion teeth.

First, the hose from the pressure switch to the reservoir had the clamp installed in a way that no screwdriver in the world could reach the bolt screw. Fortunately, I was able to losen the hose on the pressure switch side.

Then I tried to get the bottom hose off the aluminum Y connector. However, the clamp was again turned in a way that I could not get to it.

I had to remove a vacuum thingie that I have no clue what it's for (one connection goes into wheel well, other to front of engine). That was a challenge in itself, as it was connected to hoses and clamp screws were not easily accessible; then the hoses were baked on. There is no space for leverage, so I had a real hard time getting this thing disconnected and removed. But I managed eventually.

Back to the hose on the Y-connector. Once the clamp was lose, it would not move one bit. IT was "baked" on (or should I say "corroded" on?). THe aluminum shows pretty nasty corrosion at the mating survaces, and I wonder what it might look like inside... scary!

That still did not free the reservoir. No matter how I wiggled and turned it, there was not enough space to move it out. I had to lostn two bolts that hold another vacuum thingie next to the engine. This thingie has more and larger hoses attached than the first one - the last hose goes up to the air filter. I guess it has to do with the air pump. Anyway, once the two bolts were removed, I could push this thing far enough towards the engine to get the tank out. Well, kinda.

There were other things routed between the tank and the hose that used to go to the Y-Connector, so I had to fiddle with those to get the tank around them.

THEN the tank was out. Took me only 2.5 hours... most of it spent wiggling on hoses or trying to figure out how to get leverage.

I inspected the tank, and it looks good overall. It had some crud at the bottom, which I was able to clean out through the filler and sender holes. Still, I wonder, if I should reuse it or just order a new one. It's 17 years old, shows his age through a yellowish coloring, and I'm not sure, if a small white line I see near the top center might be a crack forming.

In the meantime I will work on my heater hoses. Hope I won't have to cut those out, too! In fact, they look so good that I would not replace them, if I did not have them here already. But now I might as well do the whole thing.

Stay tuned for more tales from the hose front...

Jim R.

Nicole,

I feel your pain on the hose clamp orientation. I had to dremel off a couple of the clamps on the heater hoses at the firewall -- they must have been preassembled off the car.

If the $$$ is not an issue, while you have it out, replace the tank and cap. It may take a couple of more hours to reassemble and it would be a shame to waste that labor time. If you do replace it now, there will be many more years of service before it fails. At least for me, if I don't replace something like that you know what happens on the next time out................

Jim

Mrmerlin

Hi Nicole its also a good time to replace the windshield washer fill tube you did remove the tube to get the tank out , that also means removeing the inner right fenderwell liner, ooh yeah

ew928

They'd either preassembled parts at the factory or put the damn tank in without an engine in the engine bay.
Vote highly for replace tank while it's out.
And if I'm not wrong, there used to be a 3rd bolt holding the tank to the car. It's waaaay back in the corner and I think nobody ever tries to put that bolt back in.

Once the new tank is back in, send a big prayer to the 928 shrine so you don't ever have to do this again.

Chuck Schreiber

Nicole,

I would HIGHLY recommend getting a new reservoir. I did the same thing on my 79 a few years ago when I replaced all vacuum lines, coolant lines, charcoal canister lines, etc. I did not replace the resv. and it has since developed a crack near the pressure cap. Not leaking yet, but I will bet it will in the next year or so. So, I'm kicking myself for not doing it when I had a clear shot to do so.

Do it!!!!!!!!

Garth S

Good work Nicole! .... but 2 1/2 hours? - you've ruined my day I'm sitting here with a replacement for my cracked reservoir ( Thanks Rixter ), and only planned a measly 1/2 hour for the job this morning: Guess I'd better grind some more beans for a second shot of coffee to get me through this marathon.

DR

Nicole, if you think getting it out was tough.... wait to you reinstall it :-) Removing that is a learning experience and it gets better/easier with practice.

HOWEVER, just like Chuck and Jim said, I also HIGHLY recommend installing a new one, one reason is obvious, it is a Pain to do and why take the chance you will need to it again next week when you realize that was a source of coolant loss. Those things get pressure cracks in them when they are that old that expand when hot (and close back when cool) and cause mysterious coolant leak/loss issues that are hard to find.

Steve J.

For the longest time I was losing water but couldn't figure out where. There was never a puddle under the car but I could smell coolant. My reservoir had a couple of tiny cracks in the seam between the top and bottom half and also down in the "donut hole". Replacement didn't seem that difficult but I remember thinking what a hard job it would be if I had big hands. I put the new tank into position and then attached the hoses underneath. There is no bolt in the back corner. The tab on the tank just sticks into the back corner bracket. A nice new white tank really dresses up the engine bay if you've already refinished the cam covers and intake manifold.

karl ruiter

Having seen your plans to do this in another post I was going to warn you. But then I realized that this is just one of those things that has to be experienced to be believed.

borland

Replace the tank cap and level sensor too.

Mine was installed by the factory with three screws; the rear screw was almost impossible to remove. That's not the way most are installed; just two screws in the front. The tank wedges in place, so the rear screw is not necessary.

Nicole

Thanks, everybody, for your feedback! Yes, I guess I'll need a new tank.... I sure don't want to do this again any time soon.

My tank was only held by two bolts - no bolt or speed nut in the far corner. This is an early 91 model (VIN 0102).

I tried to remove the windshield washer filler neck, but gave up on that idea after I realized that I'd have to remove the fender liner. Not planning to do that. Thank god I don't have "male" hands (size wise - wish I had the strength, though), so I was able to work around it. But it sure is in the way of leverage sometimes... And leverage is all I can work with.

Yes, they must have pre-assembled these things. Many of my screws still had the original red paint dotted on.

Garth S

Thanks for the motivation .... my replacement is now in and pressure tight too: I must confess to a shortcut - the two bolts are no longer there, now replaced by two electrical tie-wraps. Solid as can be, and only seconds to do.
If ever faced with removal again - "snip snip", and it's loose.

docmirror

Just cut and replace all the hoses. they are a failure item, and not very expensive. You can fight for an hour over a $2 hose. I have a sharp carpet tool just for this purpose. Hoses over 10 years old should never go back in the car. Although some of the hoses are shark specific, most aren't.

Bill Ball

Yep, the car was assembled around the heater core. I confronted the same thing - the clamp screws were UNDER the heater box connections. I cut the hose longitudinally instead of the clamps and it came off.

Nicole - I didn't know you were going to do this, but now that you got the SOB off it would seem more efficient to replace it. They do have some propensity to crack as they get old.

Nicole

Hmmm... Those bolts were the least of my worries in the whole process. Sure, they were not exactly easy to get out, but in the big scheme of things, those were the smallest hurdles I encountered.