No need tro scare the bejesus out of him. The symptoms do not fit TBF.

 

could be the Temp II. put a 300ohm resistor in the plug leading to the ecu from that connector. it may be the issue as it was with scots car, even though it was an older 84 model

mk

 

So can someone point out what the symptoms of TBF are? I was always told the drivability will be different with erratic idle, lower out put etc. Or are there only 2 ways to know by taking the engine apart or do the measurment when checking for TBF? It was not my idea to scare anyone

 

I agree the only symptom that comes close is "hard to start when hot" and depending on what "hard to start" means. it may have no symptoms of tbf.... Im scared to death of it becasue I lived it

 

refer to page 1, Jim Bailey's post of TBF symptoms. It's not TBF for the love of God!

 

Yes I can:

the engine when hot crancks very hard, sounds like a dead battery. So beware of the AT car your are looking at that has a new battery and starter. People who dont know WTF they are doing will repalce the battery, then when that doesnt fix it, replace the starter

If its bad and the oil has not been changed after running the engine you can see the oil is not the proper color. after you let the car sit for a day all the metallic in the oil drops to the bottom of the pan and the oil again looks fine.

the car will not want to idle when its hot, you take your foot aff the gas and the car dies.

The last and final is the check of the crank shaft end play.

 

Hi!

The engine is not hard to start when hot,but it dosent start at ones like when it's cold.

The LH unit was changed about 4 years ago along with the fuel pump with a new one so it's not very old..dont think it's the MAF either beacuse the free burn sequense is working..yes it idle's smother when disconnected but not better.
I will try to change temp II tomorrow beacuse it runs almost o.k when it's disconnected.
Changed all vaakum hoses/elbows along with idle stabillizer yesterday without any change.

Ron..

 

Further to Shark Attacks reply, cause ive had it too.....probably the quickest check is pull the oil filter off and cut it open.....if theres silver and copper bearing material in there, its whats left of your thrust bearing.

 

Temp II sensor: from each of two pins to ground/chassis, read ~5K ohms when cold, ~400-500 ohms when at operating temp. If it measures >3K ohms when warm, you will run very rich ....

 

Nord--

Check to be sure that both coil wires are completely engaged at both ends, coil and distributor cap. Then use a test or timing light (inductive type) to test each plug wire to make sure you have spark at every plug.

As much as we love to blame fuel system problems on every seemingly-rich condition, in fact electrical/ignition problems top the lists of "why my car doesn't run right", in my limited experience. 'We smell fuel out the back so it must be a fuel problem.' 'The plugs are wet so it must be a fuel problem.' With an ignition problem that fails half the cylinders, your car will run rough, idle poorly, wet the plugs, and smell rich in the exhaust. Doing the TB, the distributor caps, rotors, plug wires, coil wire, all are disconnected. If you follow my instructions for getting the cam gears timed correctly, you had the plugs out too so you could spin the motor more easily with teh wrench. Meanwhile, no fuel system components are messed with at all, unless you accidentally pulled the vacuum hose off the front fuel pressure damper. Look at all the things you did as part of the TB job that might cause the problem, and that list is quite narrow.

It is possible that there is a coincidental fuel system failure. My nickel says it's ignition though.


By the way, got cats? Running the car with one failed ignition is a good way to ruin the cats, and a great way to burn the car down when the cats overheat. Each ignition feeds two cylinders in each bank, so one failed ignition dumps raw fuel into both. Cats running hot? Save yourself by fixing the ignition!

 

Guys, it's a 5-speed....

 

Hi again!
Measured the temp II sensor today and it's about 550 ohm between the two pins and about 1800 ohm from each of the pins on it to ground.
So if Garth is right it,s way of..

Ps...how do i check the o2 sensor...?

Ron.

 

Try the search function. I've seen it here lots.

 

 

1800 ohm is about 20°C/68°F. The LH Temp II sensor has two separate sensors, one for the LH, and one for the EZ-K/F, each measured to ground. (The L-Jet sensor is one sensor, measured between the pins.)

What color is the sensor plastic? I don't know if this is true all the time, but my L-Jet sensor is white, whereas my LH-Jet is black.