85fortheDrive

Hello.

First, thanks to Jim Bailey and Dave McKenzie for their assistance today. And thanks to Pirtle's motor mount replacement write up. I've included some pix of our efforts thus far. We worked from 2-9:30 and decided to take a break. Motor mounts are out. Engine is hoisted. Now for the "secondary", WYAI process of the oil pan gasket...

Holy shinola, that oil pan is unbelievable! Can anyone think of a way to get 10mm bolts to be more difficult to work with?!!? We have some questions before we roll into Day Two of the process:

1. We have to remove the starter, right?
2. Is the brake line going to be a problem?
3. Any tricks for getting the bolts on the front end?
4. Can anyone identify the mystery connection point circled in the last photo?

Thanks a bunch for the help.

ROG100

1) Yes
2) What brake line
3) 10mm gear wrench and a lot of patience
4) Bleed nipple ?

85fortheDrive

Roger:

As I look upwards to the driver's side of the starter, I saw what I thought was a brake line that might be in the way. Is it just the starter that has to be removed (beyond the stuff that has had to come out to replace the mounts)?

I think it is a bleed nipple too. There is nothing in the area connected to it. It was so shiny, however, that I began to wonder if I'd knocked a hose off of it.

BTW, thanks for all your help in insuring the product arrived.

mark kibort

bleed nipple for the slave cylinder for the clutch!

docmirror

It appears the 'brake line' you are referring to is actually the clutch engagement line? I don't see the clutch line in that last photo, but the bleed nipple is clearly visible.

hupp

The brake line you refer to is the clutch hydraulic line that runs from the clutch master to the slave. There should be a bracket that utilizes two of the oil pan bolts to support on the drivers side of the pan. The connection you refer to is the bleed nipple for the slave cylinder/clutch hydraulics as previously mentioned.

I would remove the starter and the slave from the bell housing and suspend out of the way. A combination wrench with a racheting closed end goes a long way when removing and installing some of the bolts on the pan, especially those along the front.

As a precaution, detatch the clutch pedal rod from the pedal while the slave is out of the bell. This will prevent and accidents resulting from pushing the clutch pedal in while the slave is removed, which will launch the slave guts onto your drivway.

Tampa 928s

Once the starter is removed the slave line will move enough to take off the pan bolts. When lifting your engine make sure the air box is out and go slow and check. I used the pan for the lifting removed the MM and then put jack stands on the MM tabs to change the gasket. Then just reverse yourself ,look at your steering rack bushings now maybe the time to replace them !

85fortheDrive

Does anybody have any suggestions for tools and angles by which the front oil pan bolts can be reinstalled? This process has brought our project to a screeching halt and I'm now worried that a couple of the bolts have become counter tapped.

And can you send me the head of the guy who designed this part of the car?

SharkSkin

Install them first, while you just have two bolts on the rear of the pan. This gives you a bit of room to wiggle them in. I used studs instead of nuts when I did the R&R, so it was simple to get them started. I did have occasion to try replacing one of the front ones that was missing a couple years back -- no fun. IIRC I used a gearwrench with fingertip pressure on the bolt head. If you're worried about the threads, pull the pan off and check them. You did use a silicon gasket, right? Dry?

worf928

Swivel-head gear wrench is the choice oil pan bolt tool. And small fingers of course.

Edit: and no one has mentioned that the bleed nipple for the clutch slave should have a rubber dust cover? Or did I miss that?

Mike Frye

10mm gearwrench is the only tool for the job in the front. I use a standard screwdriver pressed flat under the end to give resistance and keep the head of the wrench on the bolt head.

I think I had to get to some of the side ones with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and 8 inch extension.

And +1 Dave, all of the nipples should be covered.

Mark

Yup! - And the flat head trick that NJ mentioned...

But you still need some SERIOUS patience and persistance, and the ability to twist your body into some very strange positions - do you know any contortionists?? You'll get one 'click' each time with the gear wrench. It took me about 15 minutes PER BOLT...My arm/shoulder STILL ache - and it's been over a year since I did mine!

worf928

Unless you are using them.

85fortheDrive

Well, I didn't have a gear wrench, so I came up with another solution. I disconnected the metal oil feed pipe from its rubber hosing (near the fan) and was able to remove the pipe insert far enough such that I could get a quarter turn on the bolts with each effort. Still, that was the rate-limiting step of this process. Following an anasthesia-required medical procedure yesterday afternoon, I went back at the process last evening and got oil pan, starter, and slave cylinder reattached. Finished up at 2am

I'll have to pick up a gasket for the clutch nipple. Big thanks to all you guys, from each corner of the country, chiming in to help me. The info and the smiles help tremendously.

Peace,
Tim

dr bob

Tim--

The cover for the nipple is a POLAPS item. My local Pep Boys store has them in the 'HELP' section. Considering the exposure and the infrequent use (hopefully...) I would reach into my bag of heat-shrink caps and seal that up snug with one of those. Won't pass concours, but it will keep the nipple clean/dry/rust-free.