Brett Jenkins

I can't get it to break loose. It's like it's welded on. The tie rod broke right at the ball that's inside the end. There was a lot of rust/corrosion from the boot being torn. I've heated it up, attached vice grips and a little hammer action, let it soak in PB for a day.

I'm thinking of getting a long pipe to slip over the wrench end to try to get some more force/leverage. Short of that, I'm about to admit defeat and take it to a shop.

Any ideas?

Jim M.

There are two flats on the steering rack ends. You may have to grind a wrench down to fit on the flats. Use these to counter hold the rack shaft and a BIG wrench with a pipe extension on it for the tie rod end. You can use a pipe wrench if necessary on the tie rod. Make sure you counter hold the rack shaft or you'll damage it and then have an even bigger job. It helps to have a buddy working one wrench while you do the other.

Jim Mayzurk
93 GTS 5-spd

Vilhuer

22mm wrench was perfect fit on rack and 32mm to rod end. Its possible to move aluminum piece little towards rack center to allow access to rod with normal width 32mm. Worked like this yesterday on '90 MY S4 rack anyway.

FRporscheman

I had my rack on the floor when I did this, so I just put one foot on the counter-holding wrench, and stepped on the other bigger wrench and let my weight do all the work. I think I had to hammer the wrench a few times to break it loose a bit first.

auzivision

Brett,

I had the exact same problem. I was afraid of damaging the rack so I took it by a shop and paid around $35 to have them removed and replaced (labor only). Toby at Castleton Auto repair doesn't mind working on parts brought in. I can look up my invoice if you want an exact rate.

Kurt

Shark Attack

+1 But if the tierod is already broken.. the tow alone could be 35-100 bucks

joe_icecool

When i did mine in situ i wedged the spanner on the flats on the steering rack end so it was tight with blocks of wood then used an extension on the spanner on the tie rod, it goes with a hell of a crack so be careful don't have the extension bar over your face or body and if working on axle stands as i was make sure they are secure, tightening was harder as it took some working out to wedge the steering rack spanner up so it didn't twist the rack.

Joe

Shark Attack

I dont know why but that line cracks me up.... sounds like you have thrown everything at it we all would have done.... maybe its time for dynomite! Acme.... call Acme... and Wile E. Cyote. he can fix it.....

Good luck.

Mike Simard

As for 'what the heck' things to try, since the tie rod is no good you might try applying heavy hammer blows to the outside periphery of the tie rod . It might seem pointless but it might be possible to deform the tie rod housing just enough to allow the threads to move.

SharkSkin

I used a 32mm bicycle headset wrench ( http://parktool.com ) and a 7/8" HF-quality wrench that I ground to fit the narrow flat on the shaft. If you do this, be careful not to let the metal get too hot or it will soften up. The small tinge of blue at the tip of the wrench is a place where it got too hot.

With the wrenches oriented as shown, I just needed to give a hefty squeeze(with leather gloves on) to break it loose... YMMV.

Podguy

Brett,

There is a very good chance some idiot put some red Loctite on the treads. This is one connection no one wants coming loose. I know some mechanics that put red Loctite on every suspension thread.

If the tie rod has been put in with Red Loctite the book says it is permanent. The only way I know to break it loose is the defeat its holding power with heat. The question is how much heat would you want to apply to the end of the rack and do you want to work in such a tight spot with a lot of oil around with a torch. You might be better off removing the rack and save the price of a tow.

Dan the Pod Guy

hupp

I had the same issue when I replaced my rack. I was hoping that I would be able to re-use the tie rod ends -- WRONG. Loctite was evident on the threads once I finally got the one tie rod out. This took a good several hours of heat and brute force. I was finally resolved to ordering new tie rods and did not attempt to remove the other old tie rod.

Brett Jenkins

Well, I gave in and had it trailered to a shop. This is the 1st thing I have not been able to do on my own on any of my Porsches. 80 bucks for an 8 mile haul and 2-3 hours labor if he has to drop the rack to replace them. Oh well, just puts a little dent in my supercharger/turbo charger fund.

auzivision

80 bucks isn't too bad.

I thought you had already dropped the rack.

Did you take it to Terry's?

Brett Jenkins

World Class Car Care, where Todd takes most of his cars. I'll take it to Terry for the alignment. I figured dropping the rack was major work, so I didn't consider it.