Help! My 928 is dead! (electrical drain - RV)
#16
Rennlist Member
That flashing light is most likely not the problem. It's probably meant to mimic an alarm system, and I doubt it would draw your battery down overnight.
BTW, should have mentioned -- once you get the battery charged, leave it disconnected until you can troubleshoot -- don't just re-install it.
BTW, should have mentioned -- once you get the battery charged, leave it disconnected until you can troubleshoot -- don't just re-install it.
#17
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Thread Starter
Unfortunately no manual for the stereo Randy. The lcd display on it is so dim you can't make it out in the daytime so I've had to guess at how to use it so far. I guess I could search for a pdf manual for the model, however I've been planning on replacing it anyway.
It's dark grey. Here's a couple pics...and no, it's not my house.
It's dark grey. Here's a couple pics...and no, it's not my house.
#18
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Thread Starter
As indicated Dave, it may be too late for the battery. I found the car dead last night and have done nothing. I don't know how old it is and there's nothing on it to show. I may be better off replacing it and putting it off until tomorrow.
#21
Rennlist Member
STOP NOW..............you could do much harm to your car by charging the battery in situ.
Disconect both the negative and positive leads from the battery and remove it from the car. Charge the battery outside the car and as Dave suggests have it load tested to confirm its usefulness.
Charging the batt. while still in the car could lead to destroyed ignition and/or fuel injection computers (check out the $$$ for those 2 brains) or worse, start a fire.
Disconect both the negative and positive leads from the battery and remove it from the car. Charge the battery outside the car and as Dave suggests have it load tested to confirm its usefulness.
Charging the batt. while still in the car could lead to destroyed ignition and/or fuel injection computers (check out the $$$ for those 2 brains) or worse, start a fire.
#22
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Thread Starter
Thanks Malcom! No I haven't done anything. And no, knowing that I know next to nothing about I had no intention of doing anything without professional help. Just thought I'd ask for learning sake.
I do appreciate your effort to save the car. Now I'm trying to decide whether to pull the battery and take it for testing, or to jump it and drive it to the shop. Now tell me if it's different than jumping anything else?...Attach cables to batt post under the hood and neg to the ground as indicated in the manual. And unless you're jumping with a new Jag most batteries are 12 volt, right?
I do appreciate your effort to save the car. Now I'm trying to decide whether to pull the battery and take it for testing, or to jump it and drive it to the shop. Now tell me if it's different than jumping anything else?...Attach cables to batt post under the hood and neg to the ground as indicated in the manual. And unless you're jumping with a new Jag most batteries are 12 volt, right?
#23
Rennlist Member
Malcom is right, as a minimum you want to disconnect the ground cable -- charging away from the car is a good idea in case yours is the 1 in 1,000,000 that explodes. I guess I just assume that this is the way people charge a battery...
Do not jump the car and expect the alternator to charge your battery -- that's a good way to blow diodes in the alternator.
Charge the battery and have it tested. It can't be tested properly without charging, if it's dead like your is.
Do not jump the car and expect the alternator to charge your battery -- that's a good way to blow diodes in the alternator.
Charge the battery and have it tested. It can't be tested properly without charging, if it's dead like your is.
#24
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Thread Starter
What does that mean? Can blow diodes? Should you never jump start the car? Even while on vacation in the middle of nowhere? Or are you saying stay away from it if possible as a precaution?
#25
Rennlist Member
The diodes are part of the alternator circuitry...........if the battery is dead and cannot be revived the alternator shall try to provide all the electrical power a running car requires as well as attempting to send another large amount of current to the battery in an attempt to charge. The system overloads and bang go the alternator diodes..........now you have to replace it.
Depending on where you are you may just want to go down to the local auto parts store, get yourself a new freshly charged battery, exchange out the old then we can start diagnosing the reason why it went flat in the first place. After all you did say you don't know that age or history of the current battery; a new one gives a good starting (no pun intended) benchmark.
Depending on where you are you may just want to go down to the local auto parts store, get yourself a new freshly charged battery, exchange out the old then we can start diagnosing the reason why it went flat in the first place. After all you did say you don't know that age or history of the current battery; a new one gives a good starting (no pun intended) benchmark.
#27
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
That little red LED on the radio is he security system for the stereo. The stereo senses anytime the battery falls below a certain voltage, and assumes the stereo has been disconnected. It will not work now until you put the code in it. You should get 'code' when you turn it on again.
There's a bunch of things that will slowly drain the battery. If you don't have electrical background it's gonna be tough to take you through it. Let us know where you are, if you're near DFW we'll help out in person.
You can take your battery to a shop and have it tested with a hydrometer after being charged. For all we know, your battery may be quite new, and you have a serious drain getting it down. I don't want to be a pest, but when you started poking around in the center console for the lighter power, you may have opened up a can of worms. There's quite a bt of wiring, and electronics in there that can be fouled up with ham-fisted testing.
Doc
There's a bunch of things that will slowly drain the battery. If you don't have electrical background it's gonna be tough to take you through it. Let us know where you are, if you're near DFW we'll help out in person.
You can take your battery to a shop and have it tested with a hydrometer after being charged. For all we know, your battery may be quite new, and you have a serious drain getting it down. I don't want to be a pest, but when you started poking around in the center console for the lighter power, you may have opened up a can of worms. There's quite a bt of wiring, and electronics in there that can be fouled up with ham-fisted testing.
Doc
#28
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Thread Starter
Ya Doc, I'm licking my wounds. I'll probably never do anything again. All I did was take out the two screws that held the ash tray in, pull it out to check the lighter was connected, and put it back. If it's that sensitive then I'm screwed – sorry for that pun!
Thanks for the tip on the radio. Is the code something that is displayed for a while, or do you have to be ready to get it down?
Thanks for the tip on the radio. Is the code something that is displayed for a while, or do you have to be ready to get it down?
#29
Originally Posted by retter1126
Thanks Malcom, I'll get a new battery. Ryan
Where are you located?