Help! My 928 is dead! (electrical drain - RV)
#31
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Originally Posted by retter1126
K.C. area.
#32
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It will say 'code' until you put the code in for the stereo. Mine has said that for > year. If you have a low power charger, like the small ones from K-mart that go up to 6 or 8 amps, you can try charging your battery, it won't do any harm. don't use a high power, high amp charger, and don't try to use the car until the battery is fully charged. Usually overnight or about 24 hours with a low power charger. To save you some time, you can charge from underhood. On the right side, just in front of the bolts for the cross brace, you will see a black cover(hoepfully) adjacent to the fender, just inside. There should be a blue or green hex shaped plastic flanged cover holding the black plastic cover on. Remove the blue/green bolt shaped cover, and there will be a hex shaped lug. This is a charging lug and you can connect the red of the charger to that hex lug, and the black to one of the bolts tht hold the cross brace.
There is always a slight chance that the battery will explode, but if you use a low power charger, the chance of that is very, very low. The 928 has a closed battery cover, with the vent going down to the outside near the transmission. If it gets clogged, that could be bad. I charge mine occasionally, with no trouble.
You can get a hydrrometer at pep boys for a few bucks, or take the battery out completely and get it to the shop. Don't let the shop charge it with a high power charger because the plates can warp, or the battery overheat. I would charge it on your own, then have it tested or test it yourself.
Doc
There is always a slight chance that the battery will explode, but if you use a low power charger, the chance of that is very, very low. The 928 has a closed battery cover, with the vent going down to the outside near the transmission. If it gets clogged, that could be bad. I charge mine occasionally, with no trouble.
You can get a hydrrometer at pep boys for a few bucks, or take the battery out completely and get it to the shop. Don't let the shop charge it with a high power charger because the plates can warp, or the battery overheat. I would charge it on your own, then have it tested or test it yourself.
Doc
#34
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By the way, thanks for the tip Steffi. I do know people in Wichita that could put me up for a visit. I've found the Wichita club's site in the past. It looks as though there is quite a following.
#35
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Ryan-
That radio is a CDR-220, and is actually a nice head unit. The CODE screen is your chance to enter the four digit code that 'unlocks' the unit. If you don't have the code for it, you're going to be stuck, though. (You might luck out- it might be printed on a sticker on the unit's chassis?????) Stefan at SWStereo (or your friendly neighborhood Porsche dealer (?) may be able to help with finding the code based on the serial # on the head unit. Stefan can also fabricate adapter cables that will allow you to use the head unit with external amps if you're so inclined.
The unreadable display is a function of the unique viewing angle in the 928, there is a replacement available that makes things a lot better from Stefan.
I have an owner's manual for the radio that I could scan for you if you'd like. PM me if you're interested.
Oh wait, you're right. That head unit sucks- pull it out of the dash and send it to me. I'll spare you the trouble of throwing it away.....
That radio is a CDR-220, and is actually a nice head unit. The CODE screen is your chance to enter the four digit code that 'unlocks' the unit. If you don't have the code for it, you're going to be stuck, though. (You might luck out- it might be printed on a sticker on the unit's chassis?????) Stefan at SWStereo (or your friendly neighborhood Porsche dealer (?) may be able to help with finding the code based on the serial # on the head unit. Stefan can also fabricate adapter cables that will allow you to use the head unit with external amps if you're so inclined.
The unreadable display is a function of the unique viewing angle in the 928, there is a replacement available that makes things a lot better from Stefan.
I have an owner's manual for the radio that I could scan for you if you'd like. PM me if you're interested.
Oh wait, you're right. That head unit sucks- pull it out of the dash and send it to me. I'll spare you the trouble of throwing it away.....
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#36
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Well that's a bit of a bummer Rob! When you say "serial # on the head unit", will I find that on the inside of the flipped open face or do I have to pull the stereo altogether to find out? You know, this all started with my cig lighter not working. Now I have a dead battery, a radio that may be done, and i still can't air up my spare if I flat. This really is a great adventure! I think I need to buy another one.
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If there is a code sticker it's probably on the chassis of the radio/stereo unit.
I asked before; how did you know the cig lighter didn't work?
When you checked the fuse how did you perform the test?
I asked before; how did you know the cig lighter didn't work?
When you checked the fuse how did you perform the test?
#38
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I didn't do any testing. I started the car and plugged in an air compressor to see if it worked. Nothing. So I pushed the lighter in which won't click and stay. I then held it in and it never even warmed up. I checked the fuse which was good – no. 33 I believe. So finally I checked the compressor on another car and it does work.
What do you think?
What do you think?
#41
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Fuse #33 is the right location, should be rated for 25 amps. Really should check the fuse for continuity and the fuse holder for power on one side.........both tests require a DVM.
IIRC there's a ground wire (brown) attached to the ashtray, was the in place? I assume you didn't check the power wire on the cig lighter for 12v?
Perhasp we're getting ahead of ourselves............get the battery resolved first.
IIRC there's a ground wire (brown) attached to the ashtray, was the in place? I assume you didn't check the power wire on the cig lighter for 12v?
Perhasp we're getting ahead of ourselves............get the battery resolved first.
#42
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Ryan-
Like Malcolm said, on the chassis. My serial # is probably on the sticker under the SWStereo sticker, as shown below.
Like Malcolm said, on the chassis. My serial # is probably on the sticker under the SWStereo sticker, as shown below.
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/Top%20of%20CDR-220.jpg)
#43
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Thanks for that pic Rob. It gives me hope.
And yes Malcom, there was the hot wire and the ground. And there was a light which doesn't illuminate.
As you say I'll solve the battery issue tomorrow and then see where I'm at. I'm also making an appointment at the shop for sometime this week. I've made plenty of notes, more than Paul will want to see.
And yes Malcom, there was the hot wire and the ground. And there was a light which doesn't illuminate.
As you say I'll solve the battery issue tomorrow and then see where I'm at. I'm also making an appointment at the shop for sometime this week. I've made plenty of notes, more than Paul will want to see.
#44
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Ok, I'm looking for the next piece to the puzzel. I'll start a new thread as well.
I've changed the battery which worked like a charm. I've found the code for the radio but am apparently unaware how to input it. The display shows CODE and four asterisks and the numbers along the bottom. I punched in the five digit code and nothing happened. Once I've input four of the digits, another set of four asterisks appear, the first disappering as I input the fifth digit, then it just sits. I'm not sure what else to do. I tried it three times and gave up.
The deck is the CDR-220. There is a pic of it earlier in this thread.
I've changed the battery which worked like a charm. I've found the code for the radio but am apparently unaware how to input it. The display shows CODE and four asterisks and the numbers along the bottom. I punched in the five digit code and nothing happened. Once I've input four of the digits, another set of four asterisks appear, the first disappering as I input the fifth digit, then it just sits. I'm not sure what else to do. I tried it three times and gave up.
The deck is the CDR-220. There is a pic of it earlier in this thread.
#45
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You said 'five digit code' -I presume you meant 'four digit code'? On my radio, as you enter each digit, one asterisk goes away, until all four numbers are entered correctly, and it goes into FM radio mode. I have punched in the wrong code before, and it'll just put up the four asterisks again.
Maybe you don't have the right code?
Maybe you don't have the right code?