atb

Ed, hope you bought earplugs to wear in your helmet.


Nice lift Pizza, it's going to spoil you. You're not going to believe how you let yourself go without one for so long.

Scott M.

Pizza;

You'll find that the lift will be immensely easier to move with a car on it than without. Mine is damn near impossible to roll around unless it is weighted.

Bill Ball

Scott: You own a Rotary 4-poster. The kind of lift in this thread uses a design where the elevations sliders are polyethylene blocks inside C-channel. Not the sturdiest design, but that's what I have and it is fine for home use. However, I don't think the legs are stable enough to roll with car loaded. I have used the casters to roll the unloaded lift around with no problem, but anything beyond that looks dangerous. Virtually all of these ~$2,000 lifts are made by the same company in China and just branded whatever. Mine has been working fine for a couple of years, but I am very cautious with it.

I should qualify this -- it might be OK to move a loaded lift around, as long as the car is fairly low on the lift. The first lock point is 18" off the ground with my lift. The company says it can be moved loaded. Maybe it can, but I would like the car to be lower.

Scott M.

Bill;

After looking at the Danmar site, ASE website it uses a standard (i.e common) style of caster on an a-frame that attaches to the post. That is the style that I have and am familiar with. On mine, the floor plate will 'cant' and catch on the floor when unweighted.

Tampa 928s

I have the same type of lift best money spent. Do you have the movable heavy metal center track for placing a jack under? I have a fool proof method for lifting my car for breke work ect just using a jack, let me know if your intersted in how!

Bill Ball

Yep, just like mine. My lift is the ProPark7 from GregSmithEquipment.com. The casters are the same A-frame type and seem to work OK, although I haven't used them for more than initial positioning of the lift.

Bill Ball

Tampa:

I have the jack tray, but I also sprung for a sliding hydraulic jack option ($495) when I bought the lift.

Tell us how you use the jack tray. I haven't used it, but it could be handy to supplement the sliding jack.

Pizza

Tampa 928s,

Yes I have the movable center jack plate. Share the knowledge Bro!

PorKen

Charles, Bill, et. al,

Are your slave-labor lifts still working well? Any caveats?

I'm fixin' to get me a four poster (so I can make some real trouble).

Bill Ball

Ken: Zero problems with mine. It goes up and down all day long.

sublimate

Bill, I have the ProPark 8 (with 2 sliding hydraulic jacks). It's the same as your just a little taller and maybe a little more heavy duty (has a backup locking system that locks it if any cable goes slack).

The car has to be at the very bottom in order to move it on the casters. The design forces you to do this - even if you didn't need to for safety - because it uses the cross bars on the lift to force the casters down to the ground and lift the uprights.

When doing this the car is all the way down, past the first locking point even. Basically the crossbeams holding the car are resting right on the casters. It feel totally safe.

PorKen

Veektor,

I like the specs on that ProPark 8. Higher lift, but small footprint.

I'm going to be building a carport around the lift. I'm considering fabbing a small shop behind the lift, with a frame over the roof which will be a drive-on 'balcony', for more car storage.

sublimate

I like it a lot. The extra height is nice.
The only downside is it's too tall to roll it out of a standard height garage door (the 7 just makes it out of most). I didn't think that was anything I would ever want to do, but some people have talked about rolling theirs out so the could hose down the car while it was on it. Like I said, I couldn't see doing that so I went with the taller one.

I got this package from Greg Smith:
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Di...rojack3500.htm
I haggled him down $100 by getting him to match derekweaver's price.

The sliding jacks work fine, but it takes a little ooomph to slide them since they don't roll but instead slide on nylon. You have to lean on it a little to get it to move, but it hasn't been a problem.

Ken, know anything about Aluminum Rods?
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/375522-aluminum-rods-on-the-street.html

Bill Ball

Victor:

Thanks for the clarification on moving the rack on the casters with a car loaded.

My shorter rack won't clear our flip up garage door either. It would clear if we had a roll-up door.

I believe I added some more sliders on the sliding jack. It still takes some oomph to get going, but the jack works well. It doesn't go high enough to get the rear wheels off the ground jacking on the crossmember. I just supplement it with some blocks of wood and that does the trick.

rjtw

Are these things suitable for lifting a car up more or less permanently? I'd love to get an extra space in the garage by parking a car on the lift (as well as underneath). I'm really concerned about the safety aspects though -- including what could happen in an earthquake here in the Bay Area!
Rick