Yes Jim, I think the silver bullet of radiators is the elusive dream. Unfortunately we just don't have one. But your rad looks like a great option. I've used all sorts of radiators and I've had Behr brand new leak, and other Behrs last the life of the car. It's a crap shoot.

 

Jim,
I love the idea of the complete aluminium rad.
I did post this question on another thread.

I have heard of a number of aluminium rads leaking (from another supplier) and wanted to know your and Mark's thoughts on why your rad will not leak.
What length of warranty is on the 928 Int rad

 

The radiator we offer is made by C&R and they oven braze their end tanks to the core. Other manufactures epoxy theirs together and I think you will find that is where they leak which may also be why they only offer a 90 day warranty. The C&R comes with a 1 year warranty.
http://www.crracing.com/radiators/cu...adiators.shtml

 

Mark,
Thanks for the update.
The next time I need a rad I am buying yours.
Never had anything fro 928Int thats given me a problem.
Roger

 

Hi Roger!

Kevin bought International's aluminum radiator for his s/c'd automatic last August. It went in without a hitch, cools MUCH better than the stock one, and so far no signs of leaks anywhere. It's welded extremely well, and we are both very happy with how it looks and how it performs. Honestly, it's so well made I don't see how it could ever leak. We are a couple of very happy customers.

You won't be sorry if you ever need to go this route.

Best,
Leslie

 

I don't remember those tabs being on the sidetank when I got it from 928Intl about 2 years ago. Memory fade vs. part has changed vs. Jim cut it off.

 

I used a Dremel to remove the bracket - very easy to do.

I had to remove the radiator to do it as it was not that easy while installed in the car.
A note supplied with the caps would have saved a lot of time and effort!

 

I gave Rog an end tank last week, and I don't think it had tabs on it?

Another note on end tanks like these. I have successfully exchanged end tanks on this style using a 2X4 wood cradle to support both sides of the rad flange, then one more 2X4 set on top of the end tank. The whole asm was pulled together with a few black bungees on each end, although I would probably use a eye bolt and nut in the future to draw the tank down on the flange.

The trick is to keep even, solid force on the end tank all along the flange where the tabs are. Once you've got that, use a water pump plier to bend the tabs inward first, then pinch over the edge of the end tank.

Doc

 

Correct the key is NOT trying to use the metal tabs to pull the end tank seal into place. Some type of clamping device takes the tension off the tabs so they can be unbent ONCE then after the new tank is compressed in place as Doc says bend back into place ONCE to secure the tank in place. Since you only get one repair on most of these radiators it is advisable to always install a new tank even if it is only a seal leaking...because the plastic tank is going to crack eventually.

 

Doc:

"Water pump plier" ??

 

Doc,
Your end cap has the bracket as well.
Roger

 

Water pump plier = big *** channel-locks (?)

 

On which part of the water pump are they used?

 

Good question, I'm sure there's an interesting etymology /tool-ology lesson here. I just googled water pump pliers and came up with some pics that looked like Channelocks....

 

Back in olden times, the water pumps had adjustable packing nuts and rope packing, instead of rubber lip seals. The packing nuts had to be tightened occasionally, and since the applied torque was very low, the water pump pliers were the tool of choice...