Radiator end caps - Gotcha!
#31
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Roger.
Water pump pliers have featured before in this forum. Wally has it nailed but we are talking about industrial/agricultural pumps here, not automotive ones.
Water pump pliers (UK) = Channel lock (US). AKA Chicken leg pliers, Gland pliers (Electricians)
Colin. 89GT
Water pump pliers have featured before in this forum. Wally has it nailed but we are talking about industrial/agricultural pumps here, not automotive ones.
Water pump pliers (UK) = Channel lock (US). AKA Chicken leg pliers, Gland pliers (Electricians)
Colin. 89GT
#32
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In the aviation field there often called "Bore Hogs" Don't know where that came from. I also have a monkey wrench and a Ford wrench in my tool box.
Jim Mayzurk
93 GTS 5-spd
Jim Mayzurk
93 GTS 5-spd
#33
Under the Lift
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Originally Posted by WallyP
Back in olden times, the water pumps had adjustable packing nuts and rope packing, instead of rubber lip seals. The packing nuts had to be tightened occasionally, and since the applied torque was very low, the water pump pliers were the tool of choice...
#34
Captain Obvious
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Originally Posted by Jim bailey - 928 International
Correct the key is NOT trying to use the metal tabs to pull the end tank seal into place. Some type of clamping device takes the tension off the tabs so they can be unbent ONCE then after the new tank is compressed in place as Doc says bend back into place ONCE to secure the tank in place. Since you only get one repair on most of these radiators it is advisable to always install a new tank even if it is only a seal leaking...because the plastic tank is going to crack eventually.
I’ve successfully used two long carpenter’s clamps (the quick adjustable types) to change the end tank on a BMW 750. They would work on the 928 too. Any hardware store should have them for ~$15-up/each. Just make sure they are long enough to reach from one end tank to the other.
#35
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Originally Posted by Imo000
I’ve successfully used two long carpenter’s clamps (the quick adjustable types) to change the end tank on a BMW 750. They would work on the 928 too.
The problem with that approach is your compressing the core and the flange all at once. What you want, is to transfer the compression from the tank to the end flange, and not move or touch the core. It might work, but you might also bend the flange, or break a line in the core to the flange. Better is to just use two 2X4s on the side of the flange, and one on top of the end tank.
Doc
#36
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Originally Posted by Rob Edwards
Good question, I'm sure there's an interesting etymology /tool-ology lesson here. I just googled water pump pliers and came up with some pics that looked like Channelocks....
Harvey