Charley B

I need to adjust the ride height on the GTS. Will it work to pull one end at a time up on ramps? Or maybe pull the front up on ramps and then jack the rear up to about level with the front and visa versa?

jpitman2

Unclear what you suggest or why? The rears can be adjusted from behind the rear wheel, fronts by swinging onto full lock, without any jacking or ramping.....BTDT.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k M474

Bill Ball

It takes a lot of leverage to turn the adjusters with the suspension loaded, but I have done it using a hefty spanner with a long padded handle. JP must be a brute compared to little, old me. In theory, it is better to do it this way if you can as there is less of an issue with suspension setting. In practice you still have to drive the car around to get it to settle all the way after the adjustment. I do the adjustment on the ground, check the height, then drive to work (80 miles roundtrip) and check it again.

Charley B

Thanx guys.

Richard S

Here's what I did.....measure the ride height and determine the amount of adjustment needed. Put car up on jackstands, remove wheels and do the adjustment. For the front, the workshop manuals state on pg 40-45...."moving the adjuster nut through 5mm adjusts the vertical setting by approx. 10mm". I didn't have to adjust the rears, but it has been said they are nearly 1mm to 1mm ratio. Then put wheels back on, drive to settle suspension, and re-check. Getting to the adjuster nut with the wheels on isn't fun, and if it is hard to turn then plan on some bloody knuckles and loud cursing.

Rich

Bill Ball

I've done it both ways - on the ground and on jackstands. If you are moving the adjuster down the shock body, lowering ride height, it is easier to turn and probably could be done on the ground without problems with a decent spanner wrench. Even then, some adjusters are just too corroded/encrusted to move under this suspension load. In the other direction, a spanner slipping off from the grunt force required is more likely.

Bill Ball

Charley:

I have a pretty good spanner for this job if you want to come by. Sunday is open.

Charley B

Thanks for the offer Bill. If I'm not chasing Brian through the hills I'll take you up on that.

jheis

Whoa, Bill

Where'd you find that?

I bought the "Motion Pro" motorcycle/ATV shock adjusting tool and then cut off the smaller spanner end with a dremel cut off wheel so that I could slip a sleeve over it for additional leverage. Works good, but wow you've even got a padded handle!

James

Podguy

I ended up modifying a pair of Vice Grip welding clamps by grinding the tips. The clamp nicely in the groves of the adjusters and give about a quarter turn at a time. No slipping and bruised hands.

A few days before adjustment soak the threads down with some penetrating oil. I used the current measurements and then used 8 turns per half inch I think (I can double check if you want). I marked the adjuster with a marking pen so I could count the turns. It is easy to get confused and miscount. I found I could not crank the fronts enough to get the max clearance. Not sure why. I did as the book suggested and lowered the rear to raise the front. It did not work. When finished I was at the minimum height all around. The car certainly is lighter and handles better after.

Charley B

I assume that was on the front. If you have time to check that I'd appreciate it.

Bill Ball

Hi James:

I've had this item for many years. It is a exhaust collar (nut) spanner wrench for early Norton Commandos. I used to have a 71 Commando that required this wrench. You can still get them from British motorcycle parts houses, and they appear on eBay from time to time for less than $20.

Podguy

Charley,

I just checked my board where I made notes while doing the adjustment. It appears 8 turns per half inch was true for both front and rear. On my car the rear was high and the front was low by a lot. I set the front up hoping to lower the rear. It made no difference, so I lowered the rear once I got the front to the proper height. I made a couple of dowels from a piece of closet pole I had around. I cut the height to the max for both and then used the table saw to cut in rings at the minimum.

I also made some fender measurements that were very helpful. Much easier to gauge than from under the car. The front is 27" and the rear 24.5" This will look odd at first. With 16" wheels you can get 4 fingers between the tire and the fender at the top of the tire. But looking at the car sitting overall on the ground the car looks great and handles much lighter than the truck I was driving before. I know low is cool, but it is also not what the car was designed for.

Earl Gillstrom

I recommend you to go to http://www.928.org.uk//content/view/57/119/ for an excellent write up on ride height adjustment. Scroll down the page.
If you want the best deal on an adjustment tool for $8.95 go to
https://www.928gt.com/default5.htm
The easiest method of checking ride height is to measure to the fender lip with a tape measure as said by PODGUY, 27" front, 24.5" rear on a level floor. Easiest adjustment, remove wheels and adjust. Then settle suspension with a fast 10 mile ride over the bumpyest road you can find or a 100 mile ride over smooth roads. The older cars with high miles seem to settle quicker. On cars that don't need height adjustment, I check ride height first, then if you lift the car for repairs and then take a ride to settle, you can do another height check before alignment to be sure it is settled.

Go to my web site for almost everything you want to know about 928 alignment. http://members.rennlist.com/captearlg/ Actually, you can align anything using my procedures.

DonT

Earl - Looks like they moved the procedure to another location. Here's the link : (scroll down the page) ---

http://www.928.org.uk//content/view/57/119/