borland

My car came with the PO's shims. His shims actually damaged the soft upper latch when the bolts were tightened down.

I removed the shims, repaired the damaged paint work on the hatch, adjusted the lower receiver piece. Works great ever since.

Bill Ball

I will report the the new receiver I received from 928 Intl yesterday is NOT malformed and works perfectly. Also, after taking the old one apart, including diasassembling the hatch release motor and replacing the upper latch tongue, I would like to say I understand how it works, but I don't feel completely comfortable with making that claim.

ROG100

Bill,
I received another batch of 10 from Porsche last week and they were all bad.
I modified them and they are good.
Hopefully these are the last of the batch.
Roger

Bill Ball

I re-read the thread and reminded myself that you discovered it was a burr in the pin switch mount hole.

Also, I remember now that I need to order a fuel line kit from you! Email coming.

ROG100

Bill,
Yes just run a 5/16" IIRC drill into the threaded hole and its fixed. The drill needs to be the ID of the hole.
Roger

Bill Ball

The new one seems fine. Might not I have knocked the burr off screwing the pin switch or it is not long enough?

Alan

Roger - do you have both of the plastic latch parts Bill identified in stock? Do you know what the difference is between them?

Though the upper lock part is different for the alarm version (with switch). I can't see why they would have changed the locking pawl...? anyone?

I know the rear hatch is a source of lots of issues but I don't quite see how understanding its basic operation is so hard - its all pretty much visible no?

While the electrical part is admittedly quite non-intuitive to deduce - isn't it still pretty simple when explained?

I know the alighment part can be hard because you can't see whats going on... and making adjustments is awkward and not precise - that I know can be frustrating.

Alan

Bill Ball

Roger displayed both the alarm and non-alarm tongues here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...8&postcount=14

The receiver operation baffled me until I removed it and saw how the lever and pawl worked. The proper alignment of the motor isn't entirely obvious, although if you move it down or up too too far, the motor complains because it can't make the full turn. The way the motor cycles off was a bit baffling too until I took the cover off the motor (discovering a chipped gear) and saw the internal position contacts. You did the best job yet of explaining how the hatch motor works here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...01&postcount=6

ROG100

Hi Bill,
You do not know there is a problem with the lower assembly until it is installed and you close the hatch. The big white pin sticks in the down position.
The burr is right up inside where the thread finishes.

Alan,
I carry all the parts for the upper hatch lock.

Bill Ball

Thanks, Rog. Mine seems to move OK without sticking. I lucked out again.

Alan

Bill & Roger thx..

So is the top of the white 'tongue' (I'll go with whatever description works) just a spring attachment point? it doesn't do anything else right? - I assume its cranked over to the side & longer like that to just avoid the space the switch connector takes up?

Alan

UKKid35

At last my hatch release is working again. I had previously replaced the nylon latch in the upper part and this worked, for six months.

This time I decided to get to the bottom of the problem so I removed both upper and lower latch and tested the release action by hand. Even with the cam at max the latch didn't release. I decided this was because the liner in the lower part was deformed, it had simply become squashed with age.

Luckily I had one of Nicole's business cards to hand, so I cut off a strip, folded it in two and placed it between the liner and the receiver under the ribbed part.

This presses the upper part of the latch towards the nylon catch, and now the cam depresses the catch sufficiently to release when operated.

ROG100

I am still getting bad ones from Porsche.
The drill trick solves the problem in seconds.
FYI

jpitman2

FWIW, I have 2 (two) RHS door window nylon guides (the things that bolt to the glass and slide on the vertical tube) , but the MOULDED part numbers are 1 x RHS, 1 X LHS....Nobody at the dealer seems the slightest bit interested.
jp 83 Euro S AT 51k

ROG100

Hi John,
Are you trying to find out the part numbers?
Or have some you want to sell?
I can let you have the part numbers if thats what you are after.
Roger