S4 Rad Temp Sensor Removal
#1
S4 Rad Temp Sensor Removal
Anyone have a hint as to how to approach the removal of the Rad Temp Sensor on a '87 S4?
I cannot seem to get in there to release the plug, much less remove the sending unit.
I'm hoping this does not require the removal of the whole rad.......
I cannot seem to get in there to release the plug, much less remove the sending unit.
I'm hoping this does not require the removal of the whole rad.......
#2
Just wiggle it side-to-side a bit more. It's a standard Amp plug, like on most of the the other sensors. In my 89 there is not a lot of room to get my arms down there, let alone tools. It looks like a large open end (guess 22mm?) is needed. But the AC condenser is in the way. A deep socket would probably work better.
#3
Getting the plug off requires thin arms - I'm 6'1" tall and 150lbs = thin. then yes I'ld also guess a 22mm socket for the sender.
If you aren't of my slender build with the AC condenser scars on the forearms to prove it can be done then don't even think about it. If your AC works don't contemplate removing the AC condenser. Remove the radiator instead - you're going to loose some of the coolant anyway. Yes it means removing the engine and transmission oil cooler lines - lots of advice here on how to do that without breaking them,but it's still less hassle than removing the AC condenser.
If you aren't of my slender build with the AC condenser scars on the forearms to prove it can be done then don't even think about it. If your AC works don't contemplate removing the AC condenser. Remove the radiator instead - you're going to loose some of the coolant anyway. Yes it means removing the engine and transmission oil cooler lines - lots of advice here on how to do that without breaking them,but it's still less hassle than removing the AC condenser.
#4
Second on Jon's opinion.
When you pull the sender the radiator's going to drain. So, drain it first. That's the messy/hard part no matter which way you attempt to do it.
When you pull the sender the radiator's going to drain. So, drain it first. That's the messy/hard part no matter which way you attempt to do it.
#5
OK..... I don't know why this should be any different than any of the other 928 projects that I've ever done!
Just finished replacing all of the rubber hoses and topped up with new coolant. DOH!!!
Luckily I haven't put the new '86 fan shroud (with one central electric fan) on yet!
Just finished replacing all of the rubber hoses and topped up with new coolant. DOH!!!
Luckily I haven't put the new '86 fan shroud (with one central electric fan) on yet!
#6
I was going to say the radiator had to come out, but a buddy with not particularly small arms said he replaced his in situ. I have small arms, and I can get the plug off, but that's about it. The radiator is easy to remove, but it's the fan shroud and the oil and tranny cooling lines that complicate it. If you had a 5-speed 90+, it's a no-brainer.
So, you have the shroud off. What's with the "new" 86 shroud?
So, you have the shroud off. What's with the "new" 86 shroud?
#7
Originally Posted by BrianG
... why this should be any different than any of the other 928 projects ...Just finished replacing all of the rubber hoses and topped up with new coolant.
Originally Posted by Bill Ball
... small arms, and I can get the plug off, but that's about it. The radiator is easy to remove, but it's the fan shroud and the oil and tranny cooling lines that complicate it.
I used that technique on CarChick's 5-speed GTS. It has gear oil cooler lines on the other side from the sender. I was able to get it up and back just enough to get the sender out.
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#8
With the switch to the '86 lower rad hose and the change to the single surpentine ribbed belt driving the power-steering pump and alternator, there was an interference issue with the left rad fan. As you can see here, the forward displacement of the P/S pulley is substantial.
#9
I pulled the rad on my '87 when I did it. I couldn't for the life of me get any tools down there, let alone grab the thing - and what about putting a new one back?
Pulling the rad actually didn't take very long. Use some rubber gloves stuffed with rags for those extra fingers you'll need to plug the oil cooler holes so oil doesn't go all over the place.
Pulling the rad actually didn't take very long. Use some rubber gloves stuffed with rags for those extra fingers you'll need to plug the oil cooler holes so oil doesn't go all over the place.