OK Ignoring any debate about the actual torque setting you need to use a torque wrench with a range appropriate to the torque you are trying to apply. So an Inch pounds 1/4" drive should do the trick. Alternatively a 6"ratchet 1/4" drive and use 1 finger on the end. If the that pulls the threads out of the block the threads were knackered anyway - bettter to discover now than on some major road trip.

The water pump bolt holes seem to corrode away - they would probably be good for around 25-30 ftlbs when new - drill them out and fit helicoils or recoils or timeserts - all work well if installed correctly - yes you do have to buy the correct size drill for the insert - the block holes are around 12 threads deep IIRC but the inserts are only 7 threads - so don't try and put the inserts in too deep. When you put the inserts in use zinc chromate paste to prevent further corrosion - try a yacht chandler to buy it - Sold in the UK under the tradename Duralac - it's a, to quote American Graffiti, "half way between **** yellow and puke green" colour- I will guarantee it will prevent your wp bolt holes corroding for the next ten years unless you use acid as a coolant.

 

Great stuff guys. I could sleep last night and my wife rollover in bed and said, I'm sure you're not the only one that ever have this problem. The guys on Rennlist will come up with something. I love this forum. I'm off to the store and I'll keep you guys inform as to how I'm doing.

 

Oh, before I forget THANK YOU ALL, VERY, VERY MUCH!!!!!!!

Bill, Perry, Jon, Matt, Garth, Mark, Dave, Charley, Greg, Malcolm and Erkka

and those without their name in the signature box:

Killingmoon65, Zeus, Borland, Sharkattack, and y33treller

 

thats a great idea! i did this with the thermostat housing that came loose on the way to a race. at a gas station, i found a longer bolt in my tool bag and it found the threads deeper in the hole. with that, i was able to race and it was a perminant fix until i did a water pump and put a time cert in there.

MK

 

My first reaction wsa helicoil, but I know about 2% of what the gurus here know. I would have never thought of the longer bolt idea, but it sounds like the best first try, with helicoils coming next. How far into the block is it safe to drill?

I ask because I start my first TB/WP next weekend. I've got my diamond-tipped drill bits and left-handed dill bits in the bag, now all I need is patience when I get furstrated.

Matt

 

If you are drilling a broken bolt, the bolts usually only go in 5-7 mm of the hole. You can see this by taking your water pump and sticking some bolts in and looking how far the protrude out the back - it's not much. You will feel when you finish drilling through the bolt. Just take your time and drill easy.

If you end up in a situation where you are installing an insert, they are fairly short and you drill just enough for the insert. As I said, I think the water pump bolt holes are 17mm into the block, but I could be remembering incorrectly and they could vary, say, by model year. So, just measure the depth of the any open holes with a probe.

But don't be thinking this way. Plan to have NO BROKEN BOLTS. Give the bolt heads a good soaking with rust pentrant and wack each one sharply but not heavily with a hammer and punch before you attempt to remove them. Any that do not give up with an immediate and decided release, but continue to turn with resistance, need to be treated again with penetrant, another sharp wack and maybe some heat.

 

Too bad there's no source for non-friable asbestos water pump gaskets. Asbestos is probably superior to what's supplied now.

These cars came from the factory with asbestos pump gaskets. Asbestos swells with water creating a tight seal without weapage. Before Porsche stopped supplying asbestos gaskets, rusted bolts were probably unheard of.

This Garlock material may be as good:

http://www.garlock.net/ViewProduct?product=224&region=1

One of many custom gasket suppliers:

http://www.quickcutgasket.com/index.html

 

Forewarned is fore-armed. Statistics say that as you have all the measures to deal with broken WPbolts you won't break any.

Now where did I put the spare fuel pump.

 

Update,
The car is back together and she is running! I took her for a test drive tonight. She seems sluggish. On my way back to the when the car was warmed, I put her in first and stepped on the gas. She took off real well, but when she hit red line, she didn't want to shift. I had to shift her into second or was it third? Shoot, now I don't remember. Anyway, my point was when I slow down, the belt tensioning light came on. I figured when she cools down, I'll just tighten the belt a little more. Any thoughts.

 

Well, definitely check the tension. What tool did you use to set the tension? Check it at TDC - precisely TDC. If you roll past, you must go around again. If you are using the Kempf tool, check it on the belt notch as close to the center cover as you can get and still flip it up. When you flip it up, just make contact with the backing plate. Don't push on it once it makes contact. Take several reading and use the lowest.

As to the sluggishness, check that at crank TDC that the cam gears are really TDC. Sometimes they look lined up when you get the belt on, but they shift a tooth as you tension the belt tighter.

The late tranny shifting could be related to the tranny pressure cable on the throttle bracket. Check that it has no tension. You pop the ball off the socket and see that it exactly matches up with the socket with no tension. Adjust as needed.

 

Also, take a meter and check for continuity between ground and the alarm connector on the center TB cover ..... to assure that the wiring is intact.

 

Thanks you guys. I'll let you know how it turn out.

 

Okay, another update.
I check he timing belt at TDC like Bill said and it was a little loose. I adjusted the belt and check it a couple time and it was still good. Took her for a little ride and no warning light. On the way back home, I took her over 100+ and again no light. My first TB/WP job. If I can do it anyone can and I really mean that. Thank you everyone for all your help and advice.