AO

Rather than paint, a thin coat of anti-sieze on the hub/inside the rotor hat should keep them from sticking in the future.

SharkSkin

The hub/rotor interface should be metal to metal. A better solution would be to wipe a thin film of anti-seize on the hub face.

AO

Didn't someone just say that?

perrys4

Another good reason to buy a California car. Mine cam right off.....but now when it came to the wp bolts, thats another story.

Imo000

i'll trade a stuck rotor over broken WP bolt anyday!

SharkSkin

DOH! I tend to load a bunch of pages at once in FireFox tabs... I missed your reply because the revlimter distracted me between loading the page and replying.

hacker-pschorr

Blow Torch? Wouldn't the rotor head up and expand at a greater rate then the hub?

AO

Yes it would. And I think that's what you're after. Since the two surfaces would expand at different rates, it may break the surface corrsion that's holding it together.

JHowell37

I just had to deal with this problem a few days ago on my '85. I tried using the method of putting a bolt in the hole and trying to push it off that way. Then the rotor cracked around the hole. So I sprayed some PB Blast in it and beat the hell out of it with a ball peen hammer. It's usually not until you start to get angry that the thing starts to move. Aluminum hubs are cool I suppose, but galvanic corrosion sucks.

FlyingDog

The BFH did it. I'm going to leave work in a few minutes and try the rears. Hopefully they come of easily like mentioned above.

I could find my impact screwdriver when I went to take of the rotors. One screw was already screwed up, and that one ended up being drilled. The others just needed some love taps with a hammer on the back of the screwdriver and a big crescent wrench to turn the screwdriver. After the initial pop, they spun right out.

So is the current preference for antiseize instead of paint inside the hat? That was what I had planned until I saw one of Andrew's posts on another brake job thread.

blown 87

Dissimilar metal corrosion will lock them up tight. But with heat, the different metals can help you, just watch how hot you get the aluminum hub.

FlyingDog

Rears came off by hand.

mark kibort

smack it harder. it seems like its going to hurt something, but it wont. spread the banging out around the diameter it will come off! trust me, ive seen worse i bet!

MK

jon928se

Hacksaw (rotors are ludicrously soft) or grind a 1/2" deep cut in the outside edge of the rotor. Insert sharp cold chisel, smack once with BFH - Rotor should crack right through to the centre. If it doesn't come off then repeat 180degrees around.

Ed Hughes

This is another example of why a torch is a necessary tool in the garage. I don't know how many times I've used mine to free up stuck parts, bolts and nuts.