Removing brake rotors
#1
Nordschleife Master
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Removing brake rotors
Other than the removal screw holes (didn't work, just kept pushing into the hub) and whacking the hell out of them (worried about damaging bearing/hub) how do you remove rusted on brake rotors?
#2
Sharkaholic
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You got the calipers off right?
Then your remove the two screws from the rotor, after that it should come right off.
If not try some pentrating oil, like PB Blaster.
Then your remove the two screws from the rotor, after that it should come right off.
If not try some pentrating oil, like PB Blaster.
#4
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I haven't even started the rears yet, so no e-brake. I removed the calipers and two screws, soaked everything with PB Blaster (left all my Kroil at Scott's), whacked with hammer, added more PBblaster, tried the two bolt holes to push them off and just kept pushing hub metal in without budging the rotors, whacked more with hammer, started thinkng about actually paying somebody to work on it, stuck long screwdriver in vent holes and whacked some more with a hammer while rotating....
They won't budge.
They won't budge.
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#10
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
He said he already removed the screws.
If he had used one, he might not be where he is.
#11
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
If you're gonna replace them, use a bigger hammer *cough* *sledge* *cough*
Are you hitting the back side of the rotor or the front? Usually stuck rotors come off easier (at least for me) by hitting the front side of the rotor in a star pattern over and over until it comes loose.
#13
Captain Obvious
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I had the exact same problem and I could never remove the rotors. When I bought my car it sat for a few years so the breaking surfaces were rusted. I bought a new set of pads and rotors to replace them. When time came to replace the rotors they simply didn’t want to come off. The hub corroded right onto the rotor and even with a hammer as big as the one on the picture didn’t loosen the rotors. I’ve tried everything but nothing worked. At the end I just put the old pads back on and drove it for a few weeks to clean the rust off the braking surface, then replaced the pads with new ones. The rotors are still on the car and when I’ll eventually have to remove them it will be hell.
We had the same problems with my brother’s ’83 928. He’s rotors had to be changed and the only way they came off was by cutting the rotors with a torch. Had to make 3 small cuts along the hub portion of the rotor but without damaging the hub. As soon as the last cut was made the hub cam off with just a simple tap off a hammer. Before that they were on as if someone welded them to the hub.
It’s very possible that you are facing the same situation that we had.
We had the same problems with my brother’s ’83 928. He’s rotors had to be changed and the only way they came off was by cutting the rotors with a torch. Had to make 3 small cuts along the hub portion of the rotor but without damaging the hub. As soon as the last cut was made the hub cam off with just a simple tap off a hammer. Before that they were on as if someone welded them to the hub.
It’s very possible that you are facing the same situation that we had.
#14
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I had this problem just recently on my 84. the rear ones came off with the impact driver; however, on the front, I had to use the 2 bolts with the puller method.
On the new ones I painted the rotor hub area with caliper paint before installing to try and prevent this.
On the new ones I painted the rotor hub area with caliper paint before installing to try and prevent this.
#15
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Yep had the same problem with my front rotors just kept pounding them backwards and forwards and kept spraying penetrating oil bit by bit they will start moving. It took me nearly two hours on one of my rotors and about a hour on the other. The rotors after this type of treatment can not be reused. Also run a sharp object in the indide lip between the rotor and hub to get rid of some of the oxide and gunk thats there.