Front Wheel Bearing R&R Write-Up?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My search efforts for a good write-up on front wheel bearing removal and replacement came up fruitless. There is plenty of information on adjusting endplay of the bearings but nothing on bearing and race removal. Does anyone have a good write-up with pictures for an 86.5??
#2
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It is not to hard to do, I just did mine last night. Not sure of a write up anywhere ? If you have problems you can send me the hubs, bearings, and seals. I will remoove the old races and reinstall the new ones and pack the new bearing for you...Just let me know
#4
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Here's my thumbnail write up.
Put the new races in the freezer.
Remove the front wheels, calipers, rotors, wheel bearing grease cap, wheel bearing adjuster and washer, and pull the hub off.
Remove the outer and inner bearings. Degrease the hub. From the backside use a long whatever (chisel, punch, screwdriver) and hammer to pound out the races by putting the tip of the whatever on edge of the race that protrudes from the seat for the race cut into the hub. You may score the wall of the hub behind the race when doing this. That is not consequential, as the new race will cover it. Work around the race evenly until it comes out. Some may have fancy puller that would remove the races. I don't.
Heat the hub moderately in an oven. The frozen races probably will just drop in.
Pack the new bearings with sticky grease and put them back in.
Reinstall the hub and other paraphenalia except the wheels. Snug the bearing adjuster down about 1/16th turn beyond hand tight and spin just briefly to seat the bearing. Loosen and retighten "hand tight". Tighten the bolt on the adjuster.
Mount the wheel with a few lugs snugged and test the bearing for play by rocking the top and bottom of the wheel. If there is movement or clicking noises, remove the wheel and snug the adjuster a degree or two more. Check that you can move the washer under the adjuster side-to-side with a screwdriver blade. Remount the wheel and retest. If no movement, pop the grease cap on and the rest of the lugs. Done.
Put the new races in the freezer.
Remove the front wheels, calipers, rotors, wheel bearing grease cap, wheel bearing adjuster and washer, and pull the hub off.
Remove the outer and inner bearings. Degrease the hub. From the backside use a long whatever (chisel, punch, screwdriver) and hammer to pound out the races by putting the tip of the whatever on edge of the race that protrudes from the seat for the race cut into the hub. You may score the wall of the hub behind the race when doing this. That is not consequential, as the new race will cover it. Work around the race evenly until it comes out. Some may have fancy puller that would remove the races. I don't.
Heat the hub moderately in an oven. The frozen races probably will just drop in.
Pack the new bearings with sticky grease and put them back in.
Reinstall the hub and other paraphenalia except the wheels. Snug the bearing adjuster down about 1/16th turn beyond hand tight and spin just briefly to seat the bearing. Loosen and retighten "hand tight". Tighten the bolt on the adjuster.
Mount the wheel with a few lugs snugged and test the bearing for play by rocking the top and bottom of the wheel. If there is movement or clicking noises, remove the wheel and snug the adjuster a degree or two more. Check that you can move the washer under the adjuster side-to-side with a screwdriver blade. Remount the wheel and retest. If no movement, pop the grease cap on and the rest of the lugs. Done.
![cherrsagai](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/drink.gif)
#5
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The inner seals will also have to be removed to take out the inner bearing and race. Replace with new ones. I used a cheap autozone seal puller which is basically a handle with two different shaped hooks on the end. A long flat blade screw driver will also work. Put the new seals in the freezer for a little while so they will also be easier to go in.
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Got 'er done. It really was not too bad, hardest part was banging out the old races, as i suspected. I made a relief cut in one of the old inner and outter races and used them to drive the new ones inplace, that worked pretty slick. As the new race bottoms out in the hub, the old one will start to drive into the inside diameter of the hub as well, no worries though... with the relief cut it just pops right back out.
A 5 minute test drive through the neighborhood and out to the hiway revealed a noticable improvement in handling.
A 5 minute test drive through the neighborhood and out to the hiway revealed a noticable improvement in handling.
#9
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Got up this morning to change the wheel bearings in mine. Used the "bang out the races with a hammer and screwdriver" method like I have all my life.
They wouldn't budge.
Took a look at the service manual to see what the "correct" method was. Wow, lots of special tools, heating etc....
Call Porsche to drop off the hubs (like they were going to call me back on that!)
Then I did what always works for me.
I searched Rennlist.
Read Bill's procedure. Got a bigger hammer. Put the races in the freezer. The hub in the sunshine.
And it's all done.
Thanks everyone.
They wouldn't budge.
Took a look at the service manual to see what the "correct" method was. Wow, lots of special tools, heating etc....
Call Porsche to drop off the hubs (like they were going to call me back on that!)
Then I did what always works for me.
I searched Rennlist.
Read Bill's procedure. Got a bigger hammer. Put the races in the freezer. The hub in the sunshine.
And it's all done.
Thanks everyone.