LA Area Brake Fluid Flush Clinic 7/8
07-09-2006, 02:56 PM
#46
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Kevin-
Sorry you couldn't make it. I will be doing my oil pan/motor mounts on my '90 on the weekend of August 19-20 (I get to play bachelor for 4 days) at my place in Irvine, you (and any other SoCal'ers) are welcome to stop by and shoot the breeze while I get oily! I'll post a reminder when we get closer to that weekend.
-Rob
Sorry you couldn't make it. I will be doing my oil pan/motor mounts on my '90 on the weekend of August 19-20 (I get to play bachelor for 4 days) at my place in Irvine, you (and any other SoCal'ers) are welcome to stop by and shoot the breeze while I get oily! I'll post a reminder when we get closer to that weekend.
-Rob
07-09-2006, 07:08 PM
#47
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Kevin,
The "coolant" warning comes on when either the level or the pressure in the cooling system goes low or high, respectively. You verified that the level is OK, but most folks forget about that pesky pressure switch. Per 928 Guru Jim Bailey, the pressure switch is a good WYAIT prophylactic replacement candidate when the hoses are changed, as they do fail and cause a false indication sometimes. I wouldn't discount the possibility that the pressure actually is high, so replacing the radiator cap should happen at the same time. The switch on my car is in one of the small (8mm) vent hoses that come from the front of the engine and the top of the radiator back to the coolant reservoir. Switch is in the hose, behind the shock tower and the crossbrace, tucked up under the edge of the pass side (on my US car) fender. Black plastic housing with a disc on top about the size of a quarter, sealed two-wire connector plugs into the switch from underneath.
On the '89+ car with the digital dash display, the two warnings may have separate/distinct messages. I know that the coolant level warning shows a picture of a radiatoralondg with the text warning message. I haven't had a chance to verify the pressure warning, since I did put in the new switch that Jim recommended.
And of course, we are sorry that you couldn't make it up for the party. 928 Owners seem to be a great bunch, based on my limited sampling at California and South Carolina events. A good time is almost always guaranteed. We'll have to think of something else to do at an afternoon clinic soon. After riding in Joe P's GTS, the next thing may be a group buy/install on windshields. Mine is rockblasted and foggy compared with Joe's, and he says he's interested in a new one too! We could easily talk an installer into coming here and working inside in the shade, I'm sure.
The "coolant" warning comes on when either the level or the pressure in the cooling system goes low or high, respectively. You verified that the level is OK, but most folks forget about that pesky pressure switch. Per 928 Guru Jim Bailey, the pressure switch is a good WYAIT prophylactic replacement candidate when the hoses are changed, as they do fail and cause a false indication sometimes. I wouldn't discount the possibility that the pressure actually is high, so replacing the radiator cap should happen at the same time. The switch on my car is in one of the small (8mm) vent hoses that come from the front of the engine and the top of the radiator back to the coolant reservoir. Switch is in the hose, behind the shock tower and the crossbrace, tucked up under the edge of the pass side (on my US car) fender. Black plastic housing with a disc on top about the size of a quarter, sealed two-wire connector plugs into the switch from underneath.
On the '89+ car with the digital dash display, the two warnings may have separate/distinct messages. I know that the coolant level warning shows a picture of a radiatoralondg with the text warning message. I haven't had a chance to verify the pressure warning, since I did put in the new switch that Jim recommended.
And of course, we are sorry that you couldn't make it up for the party. 928 Owners seem to be a great bunch, based on my limited sampling at California and South Carolina events. A good time is almost always guaranteed. We'll have to think of something else to do at an afternoon clinic soon. After riding in Joe P's GTS, the next thing may be a group buy/install on windshields. Mine is rockblasted and foggy compared with Joe's, and he says he's interested in a new one too! We could easily talk an installer into coming here and working inside in the shade, I'm sure.
07-10-2006, 02:38 AM
#48
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Two questions:
Gentlemen:
Two questions for y'all- I got home just fine yesterday, no warnings beyond the standard tire pressure warning).
This afternoon I decided to take a short spin. Within 50 feet of leaving the driveway, I got the 'check brake fluid' warning on the digital dash and then the little brake (!) idiot light stays illuminated. So (of course) I checked the fluid, nice and clean, and right at the max level in the reservoir. And the brakes are functioning perfectly. I understand the sensor is on the underside of the master cylinder, any thoughts on what's going on?
Also, I made some ride height gauges and re-measured the ride height. I am now at : LF 152mm, RF 157 mm, LR and RR: 169 mm. Almost there on the rears. The problem is, I'm completely blanking on the initial readings we took yesterday, so I can't judge how many more turns to go. By any chance do you (or any of the gang that was there) recall the starting values? Sorry, I know it's a long shot! My guess is that 1 more rotation and I'll be in the 173 range in back, but I've got a good bit more to go on the fronts.
-Rob
Two questions for y'all- I got home just fine yesterday, no warnings beyond the standard tire pressure warning).
This afternoon I decided to take a short spin. Within 50 feet of leaving the driveway, I got the 'check brake fluid' warning on the digital dash and then the little brake (!) idiot light stays illuminated. So (of course) I checked the fluid, nice and clean, and right at the max level in the reservoir. And the brakes are functioning perfectly. I understand the sensor is on the underside of the master cylinder, any thoughts on what's going on?
Also, I made some ride height gauges and re-measured the ride height. I am now at : LF 152mm, RF 157 mm, LR and RR: 169 mm. Almost there on the rears. The problem is, I'm completely blanking on the initial readings we took yesterday, so I can't judge how many more turns to go. By any chance do you (or any of the gang that was there) recall the starting values? Sorry, I know it's a long shot! My guess is that 1 more rotation and I'll be in the 173 range in back, but I've got a good bit more to go on the fronts.
-Rob
07-10-2006, 03:14 PM
#49
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Rob--
Check the connector on the switch on the master cylinder. It's possible it was disturbed during some of the fun.
On the ride height, you took the 135mm gauge and said you had about 3/8" of clearance with that, so you probably started the program at about 145mm in front. I didn't hear any comment from you about the rear starting height.
Be very aware that the adjustments front/rear are interactive. You also need to measure with the car on level ground, driven straight onto the weasuring area and not diagonally across the drainage contour in my driveway. Even after you get the car "perfect" you'll be back with the gauges after a few hundred miles of driving to get a "settled" reading.
Most Important is to measure the ride height, using some reproducible method, immediately after you have the front toe set. That is your new 'target' height for future adjustments.
A year ago, I noticed that the inside ribs on the fronts were worn, a sure sign that the car was toe'd out. The car was sitting a little low in front at 155, so I adjusted it back up to factory spec before replacing the tires and getting it aligned. On the rack, restored to factory height, the toe was perfect. This was the car's first alignment, so it was pretty obvious that all the tire wear was due to spring sag and the comensurate toe change.
I keep the car at factory height now, so I don't have to buy tires prematurely. If I could just buy one row of traed blocks for the inside... As you probably noticed, Ryan's car is dropped pretty low, to the point where the chin spoiler drags on my driveway if he's not careful. Larry's car measured low at 135mm, and that's with the 18's and 15mm of increased tire radius thrown in. His looks good great though, and if the bump-steer and rolling toe-change doesn't bother him or the front tires with the way the car is used, OK. Taste vs budget, ride height vs tire life. How much to I really like that low look?
Check the connector on the switch on the master cylinder. It's possible it was disturbed during some of the fun.
On the ride height, you took the 135mm gauge and said you had about 3/8" of clearance with that, so you probably started the program at about 145mm in front. I didn't hear any comment from you about the rear starting height.
Be very aware that the adjustments front/rear are interactive. You also need to measure with the car on level ground, driven straight onto the weasuring area and not diagonally across the drainage contour in my driveway. Even after you get the car "perfect" you'll be back with the gauges after a few hundred miles of driving to get a "settled" reading.
Most Important is to measure the ride height, using some reproducible method, immediately after you have the front toe set. That is your new 'target' height for future adjustments.
A year ago, I noticed that the inside ribs on the fronts were worn, a sure sign that the car was toe'd out. The car was sitting a little low in front at 155, so I adjusted it back up to factory spec before replacing the tires and getting it aligned. On the rack, restored to factory height, the toe was perfect. This was the car's first alignment, so it was pretty obvious that all the tire wear was due to spring sag and the comensurate toe change.
I keep the car at factory height now, so I don't have to buy tires prematurely. If I could just buy one row of traed blocks for the inside... As you probably noticed, Ryan's car is dropped pretty low, to the point where the chin spoiler drags on my driveway if he's not careful. Larry's car measured low at 135mm, and that's with the 18's and 15mm of increased tire radius thrown in. His looks good great though, and if the bump-steer and rolling toe-change doesn't bother him or the front tires with the way the car is used, OK. Taste vs budget, ride height vs tire life. How much to I really like that low look?
07-10-2006, 03:27 PM
#50
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actually Bob,
I think some of the scraping on my car is attributable to the ends of the spoiler not being attached to the inner fender cover and it drops probably an inch honestly. Once i install those innerfender liners it should clean up that part of the car as far as looks are concerned.
But otherwise your probably right, the car is set pretty low, and based on your comment of spring sag, i think i will just replace springs as well when doing dampers as no one to my knowledge has a spring dyno and i bet it costs more to test one then the $300 for new springs.
I think some of the scraping on my car is attributable to the ends of the spoiler not being attached to the inner fender cover and it drops probably an inch honestly. Once i install those innerfender liners it should clean up that part of the car as far as looks are concerned.
But otherwise your probably right, the car is set pretty low, and based on your comment of spring sag, i think i will just replace springs as well when doing dampers as no one to my knowledge has a spring dyno and i bet it costs more to test one then the $300 for new springs.
07-10-2006, 03:27 PM
#51
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My thinking is that the gnomes in Stuttgart invested a little more time and thought into 'their' suspension settings than I ever possibly could. I will iteratively shoot for stock ride height, then re-do my tie rods, drive 50 miles, and immediately have an alignment done. Then I'll remeasure heights in 1000 miles or so.
07-10-2006, 03:30 PM
#52
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Originally Posted by RyanPerrella
actually Bob,
I think some of the scraping on my car is attributable to the ends of the spoiler not being attached to the inner fender cover and it drops probably an inch honestly. Once i install those innerfender liners it should clean up that part of the car as far as looks are concerned.
But otherwise your probably right, the car is set pretty low, and based on your comment of spring sag, i think i will just replace springs as well when doing dampers as no one to my knowledge has a spring dyno and i bet it costs more to test one then the $300 for new springs.
I think some of the scraping on my car is attributable to the ends of the spoiler not being attached to the inner fender cover and it drops probably an inch honestly. Once i install those innerfender liners it should clean up that part of the car as far as looks are concerned.
But otherwise your probably right, the car is set pretty low, and based on your comment of spring sag, i think i will just replace springs as well when doing dampers as no one to my knowledge has a spring dyno and i bet it costs more to test one then the $300 for new springs.
John at Eibach in Santa Ana doers in fact have a spring and shock dyno. Don't know if it would be worthwhile doing any measurements on the old springs, though. I think I need a pair of padded underwire springs to improve rebound and cut down on visible sag!
07-10-2006, 06:57 PM
#53
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Attn: Ed Sanders
Ed,
I went to UPS the intake tubes to you today but I was told the address that I have for you is incorrect. Could you E-mail me your address again, I have a 4 digit street address and I was told it calls for a 5 digit. So I am sure i am just missing something.
Bob, perhaps you have Ed's number so i can call him, I didnt get it from him.
ryanperrella@mac.com
310 922-7291
I went to UPS the intake tubes to you today but I was told the address that I have for you is incorrect. Could you E-mail me your address again, I have a 4 digit street address and I was told it calls for a 5 digit. So I am sure i am just missing something.
Bob, perhaps you have Ed's number so i can call him, I didnt get it from him.
ryanperrella@mac.com
310 922-7291
07-10-2006, 11:30 PM
#54
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I don't have it, but i may be able to find it tomorrow.