IcemanG17

Well.....the rotors had a nice lip on them anyway.....might as well replace them, but that damm bolt is in there good!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! After determining that I have ZERO tools required for this job.....I proceeded to buy ALOT of tools (punch-EZout set-titanium drill bits + more)....I was able to drill it and start a couple different EZ outs....but it wouldn't buge....almost looked welded? So after much frustration I managed to break an EZ out off in the hole......

SO now what? The other three bolts are fine.....so I'm thinking about using a little bit of some type of glue just to hold it down and reduce rattling.....ideas? I was thinking a little bit of epoxy or JB weld....just a little so it can be removed later if needed....I also thought silicone, but figured it would melt from the heat & make a mess?

IcemanG17

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/280998-broken-bolt-and-broken-ez-out-help.html

FIXED.......after a bit of cursing.....frustration & more cursing......its fixed!!! Once the rotors & one bolt come in on Wed it will be back to 100%!!

Scott M.

Be sure to clean the metal shavings off the ABS magnet pickup WYIT.

mark kibort

those rotors are fine. a few hundred miles and they will be smooth as silk!
But, you have them coming anyway.

if it was a wheel bearing, it would be a loud howling noise, not really a grinding noise.

mk

IcemanG17

Scott
Plenty of metal got stuck to the top sender....but its all cleaned up and ready to go...

MK
The rotors weren't as bad as I thought.....a light resurfacing would fix them...BUT.....they had a pretty large lip on them anyway.....sure I could get another 10K out of them....but might as well do it right.....the pads are still new....

Imo000

If the pads have been inbeded on these rotors then you really should keep the old rotors on the car. If you are putting new ones you should use a new set of pads too. The rear rotors don't get the same abuse as the fronts. 80% of the braking is done by the front brakes. Those rotors will last much longer than 10K. It would make sence if you change the rotors when the pads wear down. Till then just put everything back and enjoy the car.

Bill Ball

I agree with Imo000. The rotors can have 1mm lip on each side before they are toast. The spec is very tight (2mm total wear) on these beefy rotors, so it is just wasteful to replace them before they have a good lip. You can use the depth gauge part of a micrometer to measure the lip.

Brian, if Malcom's idea of a backside nut doesn't work for some reason (it should work), I have the correct size Time-Serts. They are solid inserts that work very well.

IcemanG17

Hmm
Maybe I'll take the rotor down to have it lightly resurfaced.....I could just keep the rotors I ordered to use later on??

The bolt I used to secure it came from the other side (with a locknut) on the back...but that hole is tapped for a normal screw....so I'll replace it when the shipment comes in..... The pads are still in good shape...no gouges or metal stuck in them...