which supercharger?
Range Master
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Originally Posted by the flyin' scotsman
Yes, we're far away from anyone I'd trust with the car............done all the work (see mods) myself including MMs and suspension.
See what DR has, and when it will be ready for retail. As far as I know there are only two options available for complete, fully designed kits, and I don't think DR has his out quite yet. DR is a CLASS guy, when he does offer the kit for retail, I have every reason to believe it will be complete, bullit proof and "purdy". (unlike the previous stuff available from another source)
The Murph stuff has been available for several years and has many successful installs done by owners like myself who have some familarity with a wrench. The install manual has been edited several times and is as complete as it could possibly be, including pictures. On top of that, Murph is a CLASS guy, as is Carl (who is his retail outlet).
The Murph install was trouble free, interesting, nearly idiot proof and has been bullet proof for a couple of years now, (as JimR also attested). There are several things I really like about it. One thing is it can be very easily removed and return the car to stock.
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How about we see some performance numbers for each...on a real road with real cars? Not talking 0-60 or 1/4 mile or even dyno chart here...but rather all out driving.
Don't knock mid range torque until you drive it! We need to have EC or another tuner magazine do a Boosted Shark Shootout!
Don't knock mid range torque until you drive it! We need to have EC or another tuner magazine do a Boosted Shark Shootout!
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From: Up Nort
I think EuroSport does a tuner challange every year - any kind of car is welcome. It would be great if one of each setup entered.
Herr, I don't think anyone is knocking high mid-range boost. Us in the centrifical camp are just trying to point out low end torque is not missing from our setups.
Herr, I don't think anyone is knocking high mid-range boost. Us in the centrifical camp are just trying to point out low end torque is not missing from our setups.
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Hacker...little Goldiewang made 355 ft-lbs on 9-10 psig. Upgraded Callaway...415 ft-lbs on 11-12 psig. Both those are tire numbers. I have yet to see a 4.5 centrifugal car make that much mid range punch...not sure on a positive as we have yet to see a 4.5 with a screw compressor.
I have a really neat article done about 4.6 liter Fords and different induction methods...will see if I can post it up here.
I have a really neat article done about 4.6 liter Fords and different induction methods...will see if I can post it up here.
Captain Obvious
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From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by Herr-Kuhn
How about we see some performance numbers for each...on a real road with real cars? Not talking 0-60 or 1/4 mile or even dyno chart here...but rather all out driving.
Don't knock mid range torque until you drive it! We need to have EC or another tuner magazine do a Boosted Shark Shootout!
Don't knock mid range torque until you drive it! We need to have EC or another tuner magazine do a Boosted Shark Shootout!
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
t
With regards to power down low for the Centrifugal setups, I'm not sure why 360ish rear wheel torque at 1,800rpm is considered "no low end torque" for a car that maxes out at 395 @ 4,600rpm. This is the current output of Tim's stage 2 kit. Exactly how low do you want full torque? At idle?
With regards to power down low for the Centrifugal setups, I'm not sure why 360ish rear wheel torque at 1,800rpm is considered "no low end torque" for a car that maxes out at 395 @ 4,600rpm. This is the current output of Tim's stage 2 kit. Exactly how low do you want full torque? At idle?
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From: Long Island and Lake George, NY
Low end torque on the Murph setup is more than enough to shred a set of SO2-A 295/30/18's at will from off idle on up. When I had 255's, wheelspin through 4th was common. More than enough low end and midrange torque for me with a brutal pull to redline. Different driving styles, different methods of boost. I only drop 1500 or less RPM's between shifts, so dropping out of the powerband is not an issue.
As far as driving experience, 0-60, 1/4, and regular "spirited" street driving, it has far exceeded my expectations based on much previous experience with modified street and drag cars. We can all compare dyno charts; try going for a ride or driving one before making any one system to be better than another. Anything else is pure conjecture, nothing more.
Jim
As far as driving experience, 0-60, 1/4, and regular "spirited" street driving, it has far exceeded my expectations based on much previous experience with modified street and drag cars. We can all compare dyno charts; try going for a ride or driving one before making any one system to be better than another. Anything else is pure conjecture, nothing more.
Jim
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From: Up Nort
Originally Posted by Herr-Kuhn
Hacker...little Goldiewang made 355 ft-lbs on 9-10 psig. Upgraded Callaway...415 ft-lbs on 11-12 psig. Both those are tire numbers. I have yet to see a 4.5 centrifugal car make that much mid range punch...not sure on a positive as we have yet to see a 4.5 with a screw compressor.
It will be fun to see what my 79 does with a blower since it's already at 280ish ft-lbs stock. Adding 100 ft-lbs should not be very difficult.
We should have number from a boosted 4.7 Euro very soon.
Racer
Joined: May 2005
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From: Fountain Inn, SC
"However the highest dyno tested S/C 928 ever was a Murphy kit...up to 556whp vs 470whp for the Twin Screw?"
IcemanG17,
Do you know what the psi was on the Murph kit to make that kind of HP? Just wondering if I can do that with 10:1 compression. Thanks, Woody
IcemanG17,
Do you know what the psi was on the Murph kit to make that kind of HP? Just wondering if I can do that with 10:1 compression. Thanks, Woody
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Clearwater Beach, Florida
Originally Posted by all4woody
"However the highest dyno tested S/C 928 ever was a Murphy kit...up to 556whp vs 470whp for the Twin Screw?"
IcemanG17,
Do you know what the psi was on the Murph kit to make that kind of HP? Just wondering if I can do that with 10:1 compression. Thanks, Woody
IcemanG17,
Do you know what the psi was on the Murph kit to make that kind of HP? Just wondering if I can do that with 10:1 compression. Thanks, Woody
Nordschleife Master
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From: Abbotsford B.C.
what I dont get is why all the scare of boosting a high CR car, the 928 has a good combustion chamber to start with, and alot of the german cars made today are being run with 9.3.9.5CR stock, and some as high as 23PSI of boost.
I know of a few cobra mustangs with the 4.6L engine in them pushing 21PSI with a roots style and having no issues on FACTORY EFI,
if you were to convert to standalone and have proper spark retard, and a efficent IC, I see no reason that you could not run 1 bar of boost on bone stock internals, sure if you were to drive it really hard with that (ie drag stip all the time) then you may yes run into some engine trouble, but if you only use that power out on the freeway and drive it half sane, I dont think you would see any real issues.
and 1 bar of boost from twin turbos on 10:1 CR and standalone with an efficent IC should yeild over 600BHP with ease.
I do have a spare engine that I have incase I do destroy the one that is in there, but I for one what to what it is able to do, I will probably run like that for a few months then tear down and see wear. but it will be alittle while before I am able to get this fully setup.
I know of a few cobra mustangs with the 4.6L engine in them pushing 21PSI with a roots style and having no issues on FACTORY EFI,
if you were to convert to standalone and have proper spark retard, and a efficent IC, I see no reason that you could not run 1 bar of boost on bone stock internals, sure if you were to drive it really hard with that (ie drag stip all the time) then you may yes run into some engine trouble, but if you only use that power out on the freeway and drive it half sane, I dont think you would see any real issues.
and 1 bar of boost from twin turbos on 10:1 CR and standalone with an efficent IC should yeild over 600BHP with ease.
I do have a spare engine that I have incase I do destroy the one that is in there, but I for one what to what it is able to do, I will probably run like that for a few months then tear down and see wear. but it will be alittle while before I am able to get this fully setup.
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Originally Posted by Herr-Kuhn
How about we see some performance numbers for each...on a real road with real cars? Not talking 0-60 or 1/4 mile or even dyno chart here...but rather all out driving.
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Originally Posted by Lizard931
what I dont get is why all the scare of boosting a high CR car, the 928 has a good combustion chamber to start with, and alot of the german cars made today are being run with 9.3.9.5CR stock, and some as high as 23PSI of boost.
I know of a few cobra mustangs with the 4.6L engine in them pushing 21PSI with a roots style and having no issues on FACTORY EFI,
if you were to convert to standalone and have proper spark retard, and a efficent IC, I see no reason that you could not run 1 bar of boost on bone stock internals, sure if you were to drive it really hard with that (ie drag stip all the time) then you may yes run into some engine trouble, but if you only use that power out on the freeway and drive it half sane, I dont think you would see any real issues.
and 1 bar of boost from twin turbos on 10:1 CR and standalone with an efficent IC should yeild over 600BHP with ease.
I do have a spare engine that I have incase I do destroy the one that is in there, but I for one what to what it is able to do, I will probably run like that for a few months then tear down and see wear. but it will be alittle while before I am able to get this fully setup.
I know of a few cobra mustangs with the 4.6L engine in them pushing 21PSI with a roots style and having no issues on FACTORY EFI,
if you were to convert to standalone and have proper spark retard, and a efficent IC, I see no reason that you could not run 1 bar of boost on bone stock internals, sure if you were to drive it really hard with that (ie drag stip all the time) then you may yes run into some engine trouble, but if you only use that power out on the freeway and drive it half sane, I dont think you would see any real issues.
and 1 bar of boost from twin turbos on 10:1 CR and standalone with an efficent IC should yeild over 600BHP with ease.
I do have a spare engine that I have incase I do destroy the one that is in there, but I for one what to what it is able to do, I will probably run like that for a few months then tear down and see wear. but it will be alittle while before I am able to get this fully setup.
I fully agree. I have my 89 engine ready for just this. The pistons have been coated for temp on the crown and side skirts, and I have installed ARP rod bolts, and will use ARP head studs, and an MLS gasket, with standalone EFI. It should hold together when I get the tune right. Just need sometime for assembly.
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From: Up Nort
Originally Posted by Lizard931
what I dont get is why all the scare of boosting a high CR car...............I know of a few cobra mustangs with the 4.6L engine in them pushing 21PSI with a roots style and having no issues on FACTORY EFI
Too much ignition timing + high compression + thin alusil cylinder walls = game over man