ULpilot

Well, I decided after worrying a lot to replace the timing belt. Car history: bought by dealer at car auction with cracked windshield, sat for 2 years outside at the dealer then sat for another 3 in our garage.
So... finally I get it all apart (well all the covers off, all that is left is pull the pulley on the crankshaft). And as I look at it- the belt still has the white "made in Germany" lettering on the back- only some streaking there. The belt looks new, not dry or cracked or anything. Happily- the pulley on the water pump looks new (shiny) too! And the tensioner boot looks healthy.
I already have a new belt. But... should I put the new one I have on, or just tension the one that's already there? I'm thinking I won't replace because a) I'm worried I would mess something up, b) if I tension the one that's on... I'm thinking I wouldn't have to do another 1,500 mile tension like I would if I put the new one on.
I appreciate your thoughts!
-Simon

Jim bailey - 928 International

It is probably fine but the same can be said for Russian Roulllete with a six shooter and one bullet ....5 out of 6 times it is fine...

ROG100

Simon,
Change it out for your future piece of mind.
If you have got this far go the whole way - it is easier than you think.
After the tenth one its like riding a bike.
Roger

Jim_H

Do it. Otherwise it will always be on your mind.

rixter

I had a similar situation last year when I got the S4, everything looked brand spanking new, but no records... trust me, you'll sleep AND drive much better if you just do it
don't forget to go ahead and change the accessory belts at the same time since they'll be off

WICruiser

Mine also looked "new" but I decided just for peace of mind, given that I did not have the history, and the ramifications of a belt failure it was the thing to do. Once you get as far as you are it is not really a tough job and you will have time to worry obout other things.

michaelathome

Good point Rixter

Michael

Garth S

When you are that far on an interference engine - continue and replace the TB: It must be loosened anyway to check the state of the main tensioner roller,the bushings on the carrier arm and the pivot bolt. Also, a check of the idler rollers, cam & oil pump gears, etc is best done with the belt off.
The eventual 1000 mile check for tension ( and check on tensioner oil level) is ~ 1/2 hours work .....
A lot of comfort to be had for $40 .

unclenick

Do it for sure. It is actually not that hard, just time consuming

ULpilot

Ok, I was just going to go ahead and do it today.
Got out there, flywheel lock on, get a BIG breaker bar. Pulled really hard... and nothing happened. The pulley bolt on the crankshaft is torqued (or stuck) WAAAAY past 218. So now I'm worried I'm missing some sort of a locking mechanism? Some double nut or pin or something? I tried putting a 3' box tube on the end of the wrench, but it just kept bending the wrench to the point I was afraid I'd just ruin the wrench. Not replacing it is looking nice again, but I'd like to... so. Anyone else have this problem?

SteveG

The "Search" function is your friend. Pirtle's site has a good write up on the TB. Do you have a supply of Liquid Wrench? 1/2" drives have been broken on those cranks.

ULpilot

Ok, I'll try some loosening liquid and I'll get a bigger breaker bar tomorrow. What I was wondering...(and really doubting it's safe and won't do without 100 responses saying it's ok) can I use an air impact wrench?

Bill Ball

Your breaker bar must be 3/4" type. It is common to take a lot more than 218 to get the bolt loose, but it will come loose.

Garth S

The last S4 opened had me running out to borrow a 30" Snap-On 1/2" bar, for my puny bar was bent nearly double . I was braced such that I was pulling more than body weight ( 200# - & red faced) on a 2.5' lever .... yes, they can be tight!
I have used an impact wrench - and it works great! However, there is not a lot of room with the rad in place. A guy might just wiggle a impact wrench in there without removing the rad ( mine is 1/2" too long) ..... but what explanation are you going to give your fellow Rennlisters after the bolt snaps free ?? .... and drives your wrench through the rad - as it reverses with the speed of light ...

Thaddeus

When I took my pulley bolt off, I needed to use an 6 foot long breaker bar, I kid you not. But it came off.