whitefox

I did a search and did not turn up what I was looking for.

I have 3 boot kits from 928 specialists that I need to install, does anyone have a write up I can follow and/or tips?

jeff jackson

pretty good write up in the WSM if I recall correctly. Have you got the axle off the car yet ? Thats really the hardest part, On your S4, on the driver side, you will have to llower the exhaust. I lowered the exhaust on the passenger side as well on my 86.5. (6) 8mm Hex bolts hold the axle in the transaxle on each side. (Actually...they are 8mm Socket head Cap Screws)... AND (1) 32mm tapered threaded nut has to be removed from the hub end of the axle, and you can pull the 1/2 shaft from the vehicle. This 32mm Nut...is a Booger. It is Torqued to 336 #/FT. . And generally should be loosened with the car on the ground, and the Center Wheel Cap removed. Use a 3/4" Drive Breaker Bar, and a Floor Jack Handle as a cheater. There is a good procedure as well on Greg Nichols Maintenance Tips and Procedures Site...From that point on...you need a decent Snap Ring plier set, and everything else you need is in the Boot Kit. I had to use a puller to get the Inner CV joint off the axle. Apparently, lots of guys are able to remove it, with a Plastic Hammer.

whitefox

I havn't removed the axle yet. I also do not have the WSMs.
I dont know if it makes a difference or not but I have a RMB.

jeff jackson

Makes No difference on the RMB. Check Greg Nichols Site for a good repair procedure...Also...Sharkskin, has recent familiarity with this job. Idid it myself a couple weeks ago, so its pretty fresh in my recall. Read through my earlier post which has been edited for more/better info. Hope that helps..

Jim M.

I just did this with a friend on his 89 GT. Jeff Jackson has it nailed! Although we didn't have to drop the exhaust on the GT.

Jim Mayzurk
93 GTS 5-spd

FlyingDog

People have posted links to them put online without Jim Moorehouse's permission. Do a search or send a PM to Jim about buying his CD.

G Man

SharkSkin has a wealth of writeups on his site. Here is the link to his half shaft project.

http://members.rennlist.com/sharkski...ftsRematch.htm

chaadster

I just did the job last weekend, on my drivers' side. It's very straightforward, as has been mentioned already. Just to add a little blow-by-blow to Jeff's summary above:

1. before jacking the car, pop the centercap, and break the axle nut loose (yeah, it's the standard righty-tighty/lefty loosey threading, it's just snug!)

2. jack the car and loosen the the two bolts holding the rear exhaust, and undo the muffler or RMB from the rubber hangers

3. using the e-brake to keep the wheels from moving, remove the hex bolts holding the shaft to the transaxle. You might want to pick the heads clean, so that the wrench fully seats and doesn't round out the bolt head.

4. drop the transaxle end of the shaft (may need to wiggle and compress towards the wheel), then use a socket extension or the like to tap the axle free from inside the hub, through the wheel.

5. wiggle the assembly around the exhaust and out; that's it!

6. with the axle removed, cut loose the boot and wipe up the grease, then gently tap off the endcap and wipe up in there as well, exposing the circlip that retains the bearing.

7. pop the circlip, and pull the bearing free. As Jeff notes, a little force from a deadblow hammer may be needed.

8. degrease and clean up the joint, reinstall, and repack with grease (don't forget to put the circlip back on first!)

9. on the hub end, I suggest putting a little antiseize on the axle stub to help ease it back into place and to make removal easier down the road.

10. Retorque everything (iirc, 65lb-ft on the hex bolts) and put everything back together. Again, you may need to periodically release the ebrake and rotate the wheel to gain access.

11. retorqueing the axle nut to 336lb-ft takes some doing, but there are some pretty creative tips on how the home mechanic can figure it out: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...highlight=boot

Oh, one last thing-- wear clothes you won't mind getting greasy! It's a messy job, but very straightforward.

Have fun!

whitefox

There is a problem, the whole car is on stands and the wheels and rotors are off.

jeff jackson

Ross...not a problem if the car is on a concrete floor. Just put a 3-4 ft. length pry bar or equivalent length of round or square stock (1" minimum diameter) diagonally through the wheel studs and rest it on the floor to the rear of the hub. Then...when you exert the force to break the hub nut loose...the pry bar - piece of stock...will act as a stop, and allow you to break the nut loose. Works like a charm believe me

dr bob

Some tips:

Related to the car already on stands, I was able to easily loosen the nuts with the car in park and the parking brake set firmly. If that isn't enough, have somebody step on the brake; If that isn't enough, start the engine and have them step on the brake.

I use a 3/4-drive socket, with an adapter that lets me but a 4-foot cheater directly to the socket. Lift firmly on the end, nut comes off. Piece of cake with the right tools.

Tighten the nut with a torque wrench, or calculate the point on the bar where your body weight will do the trick. 339 divided by your weight in pounds is the number of feet from the axle center where yoo need to place your weight. Multiply that number by 12 to get inches from the center of the axle. Make a mark on the cheater, then step --gently-- on the bar. No bouncing, just dead weight centered on that mark. Bar may need to be repositioned so it's level/horizontal when it's at the final tightening point.

Use a torque wrench to be sure the capscrews for the inner CV joint to drive flange are tightened correctly. 60 lbs/ft is a lot bigger than folls might think is right for a 6mm capscrew (standard for most 6mm is about 7 lbs/ft). I use a couple extensions to get the torque wrench out past the brake disk, rather than wrestling with it under the car.

You mention that you have 3 boot kits. That means you are one short, unless you very recently replaced one of the outer boots. In my limited experience, boots fail at roughly the same time. Outers a little earlier than inners due to slightly increased angle and brake heat. Lefts slightly faster than rights thanks to the exhaust system routing there. No matter, once you are set up to remove both axles, it seems kind of foolish to leave one old boot on there.

Put a plastic tarp or some painter's paper down under where you are working. The grease used in the joints is thick, ugly, hard to clean up. It gets on your hands, so gloves are appropriate. It gets on your clothes so don't wear your daughers white wedding dress... or anything else that might be injured with some grease stains.

Some people have been known to paint the axle shafts as part of the under-car beautification movement. Do it after the thing is assembled, but before it goes into the car again.


Go for it!

SharkSkin

Ross, you don't have to pull the stub axle off of the hub to change the boots. It's not impossible if you don't; but it's a lot easier if you do IMHO. As Jeff says, you can prevent the wheel from turning by locking something between the lug nuts and against the floor. You might want to put some short lengths of copper pipe over the studs, or some aluminum between the bar and the studs to protect the threads.

Bob, he currently has no main or parking brake function back there. Also, the six flange bolts are 8mm, IIRC. And, they should be re-torqued after ~50 miles of driving, especially if you replace the gaskets which will compress some. I torqued mine at ~50 then about 250 miles, the second time they hardly moved. A couple thousand miles later, I was under there for another reason and applied the torque wrench again, at which point one of the 24 bolts moved slightly before the wrench clicked, all others were OK. Whatever you do, don't just torque them once and forget about it(right Nicole?)

Another note -- when torqueing them down, use a minimum number of extensions, as there will be some torque loss due to the extensions twisting.

dr bob

Dave, you need to expand on this phenomena a bit for me. The big question will be... Where does the 'excess' torque go when you use extensions?

The only time there might be some inconsistencies in the torque transmitted is if there is some angular issue with the extensions, and they bind up. For the pretty much straight shot in there to the drive flange bolts from the wheel area, the torque applied at one end is the torque realized at the other end.

SharkSkin

Bob, I know it seems to fly in the face of physics. My dad pointed this out when I was maybe 10 years old, give or take a couple years. The explanation is that some of the force is eaten up overcoming the elasticity/internal friction of the steel as it bends. Now, I'm no physicist or metallurgist, so that's probably a simplistic explanation at best.

We played "mythbusters" on that day many years ago, because I called BS on the old man, sure that he was pulling my leg as he was so fond of doing. "Where does it go? it has to go somewhere..." I insisted. Here's the experiment, try it for yourself, you may come up with a better explanation. I just tried it again a few minutes ago for kicks, and had the same result:

Get a 3/8 torque wrench -- mine goes to 75 ft/lb. Crank it all to way up to ~70 ft/lb. Now pile on ~2' worth of extensions, in my experiment today I used two 3", two 6", and a 12". Get yourself a 1/2" bolt, the correct nut for it, and a stack of washers. Stick the nut in the vise and start tightening down with the torque wrench until it clicks. Tighten until it clicks again, as many times as you need to in order to satisfy yourself that the bolt will not move without going beyond the point where the wrench clicks. Now, remove all the extensions, and try again with just the torque wrench and the socket. Watch carefully, you will see the bolt turn some before the wrench clicks.

Neat parlor trick to impress and amaze your friends with. Again, if you can come up with a better explanation as to why this happens, I'm all ears. So far I've been content to know that there is such an effect and that it should be considered when trying to get a specific torque with lots of extensions. You can find out how much to compensate with a given set of extensions by experimenting. If you're using the 3' or so of extensions that it takes to get the wrench out past the rotors, I bet torqueing to 65 ft/lbs would get you pretty close to 60 at the screw.

Bill Ball

Boy, that is strangely counterintuitive. For some reason that no longer makes sense, I was thinking once the shaft has been wound to a certain point, it is like a rigid shaft again, transmittng all the torque. But twisting does require energy, and that energy must come from the torque force.