tv

You need a helper and a way to feel underneath as vibrations can travel. I always thought that TT failures came on slow and gradually got worse. I do not know what others mean by a motor mount collapse as all old ones are collapsed (both sides). Check to see if the oil pan is at least level. Does this 928 still have the little shock absorbers to dampen the engine vibration mounted on to the front suspension lower arms.

A fragged cat where the brick is loose and being pushed around might give a vibration but why disappear above a certain rpm.

WallyP

Carefully check the couplings on the front and rear of the torque tube, and pray that it isn't a broken transmission input shaft.

Pull the lower belhousing cover and check the attaching bolts on the flex plate, and check the flex plate for cracks.

Check the front vibration dampener (crank pulley) for security and centering.

Check the alternator, A/C compressor, power steering pump, air pump, and drive belts for security and centering.

Look on all moving parts for bright areas of new metal.

Getting under the car (safely!) would help a lot.

TAREK

These two possibilities may sound silly, but they happened to me:

1) check for broken parts off the main cooling fan. Believe it or not it causes similar symptoms as it loses balance from a broken piece

2) check for interference of accessories mentioned by Wally with the belly pan if you have one.. Just removing it and trying again would be the test

DANdeMAN

Maybe an experienced member could go an help you pinpoint what is the problem!!???....Just state where you are and hopefly one will step up to the bat !?

SharkSkin

Check the CV joints. There's a major component that's just been fiddled with. There may be two or four flanges with 6 bolts each, that have to be torqued to 60 Ft lbs. Double-check that. If they rebuilt them, make sure they put the groove in the joint to the *outside* on all 4 joints, as shown in the pic below:

animal8526

He is in nashua NH... I wanna cry. none of these issues sound like a fast fix with low cash input. I owe my first born son to whomever helps figure this out... I'll toss in my soul if anyone has a low cost solution when the issue is discovered. ARRRRGGGHHHH... why have the Porsche Gods forsaken me?

Daniel Dudley

If it did turn out to be the motor mounts, Jeager eng. has a pad that sits between the engine and the cradle for little dollars. Don't panic.
Two mechanics; Eurosport motors, Tim Mclean Merrimack NH 603-424-5100. Import Service Shop, George Dollet, Hudson NH 889-6881

You could also take it back to Porsche or the mechanics who last worked on it.

Figure out what is wrong, and if needed, have a back up plan. If the repairs are too expensive, Rent a nice car Like a Jag or Mustang. It would be far cheaper for a week than blowing all your money nd still not having product.

Also, doesn't Gretch live near you ? He is a handy guy .

animal8526

thanks for the heads up on the local mechanics... renting would be a fallout plan, but it'd be like getting a hooker after your fiance decided she didnt love you... yeah, same end result, but the feelings just not there.

Jim R.

If the same shop did the steel ball joints, CV half shaft, brakes, and alignment BRING IT BACK! A bad CV joint, loose brake caliper, loose lug nuts could all cause your symptoms. If their installation work or their parts are at fault it should cost you nothing to fix. At the very least pull the rear wheels and check torque the brake calipers and torque the lug nuts to rule those out. My guess is the CV joint/half shaft being bad or improperly installed. They should fix that for free if it is their fault.

Good Luck ,

Jim

DANdeMAN

What is sniffing my crotch is this : Din't the last tech test drive this car after the repair? Wouldn't he have said "Sir, I think there is something wrong with your car!" Don't waste time, bring it back ASAP

animal8526

from what my uncle told me, it has all the same syptoms in park and nuetral when revving the engine... that rules out rolling problems, right?

DANdeMAN

And I forgot, stay there and look/check with him and maybe take some pics of the underbody....

Jim R.

If it has all the symptoms in neutral, that rules out any rolling problems.

In the first post, he said there was no rattle in neutral, so that may need some followup.

If it has all the symptoms in neutral, does the car run rough or just make a rattling noise?

I would call the shop about this, see if they test drove it (how far and at what speeds), and see what they will do to fix it.

Jim

Gretch

I can't promise to ease the cost of fixing what ever is not right on your car, but I can do this.

When you get back to the states, you send me a PM. We will set up a date for you to bring your car to my shop, just outside of Waterville Valley, about an hour from Manchester. I will put your car on my lift and we can check out everything. Then at least, you will know what is wrong with the car and you can avoid "Mechanics casino" with your repair budget. If it is simple, we can fix it there, if not well we can order parts from our "friends", and fix it later.

I like working on these cars and as a personal way of saying "thanks" for putting yourself in harms way......I will even stock the fridge with beer. Keep your head down and come home in one piece, will ya?

Jim bailey - 928 International

I would also be checking the front flex plate at the flywheel since I have seen a few of those break on one of the three points of the triangle. That it happened on an upshift which my guess was probably near full throttle would concur with something breaking.