sendarius

Did you know that fuse #42 in '88 S4 can get hot enough to MELT before it blows?

.. and guess what, the car will crank but won't start without it

928ntslow

Hey, nice to see this thread come back to life!

Did you know that the Euro fuse panel (at least what I got off of 928 Specialists site) diagram designates the #10 location as the fuse for the brake lights and it is actually #7 per the factory current flow diagrams.

djurek

My favorite thread of my short rennlist existance.

kjurkic

Did you know that if you flop the drivers' seatback forward, it will automatically slide forward on its tracks? Good idea, except it doesn't return to its starting point when you flop back.

I kept wondering if I was hallucinating; I would get in my car in the morning, and find myself scrunched, even though I alway adjust my seat way back. It took a few days to notice why.

Or maybe it ISN'T supposed to work that way.......


Ken
80928

928ntslow

I suspect your driver seat is manual as the power seats do not do that.

kjurkic

power seats both sides.

Maybe a gremlin.....

K

heinrich

Like Keith says ... that cannot happen on the later 928 power seats. I wish they did!!

heinrich

If any fuse melts the plastic, it is the wrong Amperage. And there is a problem with the wiring or the device it feeds.

blown 87

We had a rash of that a few years back when Wûrth went from ceramic to plastic bullet fuses.

It would melt the plastic out and leave the conductor.

They had to reformulate the plastic and possibly change the conductor to make them work.

We could put a old ceramic fuse in there and the problem would go away.

This was in a well maintained car with a fresh fuse box service. Fresh clean contacts, and the proper tension on the fuse, with no over amp conditions.

I never did figure out why the fuses were getting hot with the plastic ones in there and not with the ceramic ones.

The only thing that made any sense to me was the resistance of the fuseable part had to be greater with the plastic ones.

I have never seen it with a ATM/ATO/ATC type fuse, but I can see how it could happen.

Greg Nettles

marton

My power seat does that (81euroS), moves forward under power when you lean the "seat back" forwards - supposed to aid back seat access

Marton

kjurkic

Thanks Marton, I was beginning to wonder if I was losing my mind....

That's one less electrical gremlin for me to worry about.

My shark is US-m.y.1980

Mike Frye

Did you know that the center console can warp in such a way as to interfere with the free motion of the window switches? If you think your switches are going bad, check for interference with the console first. (a razorknife on the edge of the plastic rocker switch may free-up movement)

Additionally, there are (at least) two types of window rockers. Internally the earlier ones have a spring loaded contact that bends WAY too easily and is nearly impossible to clean and re-use. Later they used one that is more difficult to disassemble and clean without breaking, but that's more robust.

These newer ones have a square (or rectangular) brass colored metal piece that will instantly disappear if you try to open it in the car, vanishing down next to the seat and, being non-ferrous, a magnet will not retrieve it.

leperboy

This I sadly know all about.

Did you know that when the roads are icy for a week it makes a 928 driver get itchy and snap at his loved ones?

Matt

bronto

I studied the window switches in 928 Intl's inventory at the last Sharktoberfest, and can confirm that there are at least 5 different part numbers, of the two different main designs you describe above. And I can confirm the rectangular part's attraction to the area between the seat and the console as that happened to me a few weeks ago. I still haven't retrieved it.

Both switches have flaws apparently, but I like the older spring/bearing ones more. They have a more positive/heavier feel to them. That's still in use on the passenger side, although it's getting harder to activate. The newer ones are a simpler design, but my practically new one was getting very hard to activate, which is what lead to the loss of the rectangular piece. There is a howto documented here somewhere on how to shim this switch to make it work better.

Imo000

Not always! Sometimes when there is too much corrosion at the base of the fuse, it will create enough resistance to heat the fuse up and slowly melt the plastic. Yet the fuse will not blow.