Electrical system doesn't turn off
03-10-2006, 06:52 PM
#1
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Electrical system doesn't turn off
When I drove the car into the garage the other day, I turned the key off and took it out of the ignition. Everything turned off except the engine continued to run. I got the engine to stall. Turned the car on then off again, then disconnected the battery.
Today I went out to work on the headlights (one bounces up and down because the adjuster rod was disconnected). When I reconnected the battery, the dash warning lights turned on. I put the key in and turned it on and off, but nothing changed. After playing with the lights and the key for a while, the warning lights turned off with the key on and lights off. As soon as I turned the key off, the warning lights turned back on.
What circuit is staying active? I don't know what circuit the warning lights run off. It doesn't seem to be 30 since the headlights won't operate.
Today I went out to work on the headlights (one bounces up and down because the adjuster rod was disconnected). When I reconnected the battery, the dash warning lights turned on. I put the key in and turned it on and off, but nothing changed. After playing with the lights and the key for a while, the warning lights turned off with the key on and lights off. As soon as I turned the key off, the warning lights turned back on.
What circuit is staying active? I don't know what circuit the warning lights run off. It doesn't seem to be 30 since the headlights won't operate.
03-10-2006, 07:08 PM
#2
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Time to start pulling relays... or first, try tapping each one and see if the problem goes away... you probably have one that has a big pit & crater on its contacts, and its not breaking cleanly...
good luck...
good luck...
03-10-2006, 07:20 PM
#3
Team Owner
Hi get a relay printout from 928gt.com then start pulling the relays mark each one and check for the correct part number when the lights go off that is the relay I would open also any relay that has any corrosion is a prime candidate for a daylight inspection IE open the relay. Also there is a good chance that your heater box is leaking water onto the fuse/relay panel if it is then you will have to reseal the blower box with some strip caulk, to verify this close the wood panel and look above the panel and you will see a plastic grate this is the bottom of the blower box if you look carefully around the edges of where is comes through the fire wall you may find where water has been dripping onto the fuse/relay board get some one to spray water into the well under the plastic cover (The cover that is over the windshield wiper motor under the hood) . Also you may want to check the power stud under the hood next to the passenger side of the cross brace, this connection is also prone to corroding both the big wire and the black 14 pin plug check this connection with the battery disconnected, also clean and charge the battery terminals and clean all of the grounds, good luck Stan
03-10-2006, 07:40 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by borland
Replace the ignition switch. Requires pulling the instrument pod.
Borland, are you referring to the keyed portion of the switch? - which clearly requires pod entry. ie - the mechanical portion of the assembly is not cycling the electrical 'half' far enough to make/break the correct contacts.
03-10-2006, 08:06 PM
#7
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I think it's a short behind the CE panel. I had water behind there from de-egging the car. I tried pulling relays and was down to defogger, headlights, and the 4 needed to run the engine. The lights still came on. I decided to just pull the CE panel which I needed to do anyway. There are some very cooked wires on the back of it and a wire was soldered directly from a harness to the upper contact for fuse #28.
IIRC, my car was built in 83, yet the panel is dated 84 along with all the relays. I also found a piece of paper with a German Dr's letterhead glued to the firewall behind the CE. I wonder if he was the original owner. I'll take a picture next time I go out to the garage.
IIRC, my car was built in 83, yet the panel is dated 84 along with all the relays. I also found a piece of paper with a German Dr's letterhead glued to the firewall behind the CE. I wonder if he was the original owner. I'll take a picture next time I go out to the garage.
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03-10-2006, 08:54 PM
#8
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Borat Impersonator
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Borat Impersonator
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IIRC you can get water behind the CE panel if your drain flap in the engine bay is clogged with leaves. I'll look for a picture of it...
03-10-2006, 09:04 PM
#9
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I found the flap. It has some leaves, but it didn't seem clogged. I probably over loaded it at the carwash. It really is a PITA to get to that flap. There is a wiring harness, A/C line, and fuel supply line in the way of getting my hand in there.
03-10-2006, 10:54 PM
#10
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Anybody have any recommendations on how to pop the relay sockets out of the panel? That looks like the best way to repair the burnt wires, but I'm not having any luck pushing in the tabs.
03-10-2006, 11:22 PM
#11
Race Car
Matt,
You are having a bad streak of luck. Let me know if ther is antthing that I can do to help out. I know that I can't answer any questions that you might have but I can turn a wrench on a good day
Michael
You are having a bad streak of luck. Let me know if ther is antthing that I can do to help out. I know that I can't answer any questions that you might have but I can turn a wrench on a good day
Michael
03-11-2006, 12:37 AM
#12
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Matt, I have some info on dealing with the relay sockets on this page. Some more general info on refurbing the panel here. On the early style panels the socket has tabs that you release from the back side, and the relay pops out the front:
On the later cars, there is a thin plate that comes off the front, then from the front you can release the tabs that hold the socket in place and push it back through the panel. The earlier ones are a whole lot easier to change IMHO, because you don't have to clear a path through the spaghetti to get the socket out.
On the later cars, there is a thin plate that comes off the front, then from the front you can release the tabs that hold the socket in place and push it back through the panel. The earlier ones are a whole lot easier to change IMHO, because you don't have to clear a path through the spaghetti to get the socket out.
