Ern:

We did get the red door lights to extinguish, but it was unreliable. Must be a periodic ground short somewhere. So, we left the ground strap off for storage until he drives the car.

We closed the rear hatch. Didn't check the rear pin switch.

Yes, the radio is after market. Didn't check the amp. Could be a factor.

Thanks for the other ideas.

 

Looks like I have some time this afternoon... I'll be on the horn in a sec.

 

I would like to apologize for not chiming in earlier (after all it is my car Bill was working on) and to thank Bill, Dave and the others. Unfortunately, I am feeling somewhat under the weather right now, so no more attempts at repairs for the next couple of days.

The situation is a follows: the car has always had some electrical issues but they were never serious enough affect it’s usability. For example, the window switches only work one at a time i.e. when the driver side window is being lowered nothing can be done with the passenger side window and vice versa. The front dome light does not work (Jim Murphy had tried to fix it back in the day but to avail).

As you can see, both of the circuits Bill and I have identified as the source of the drain have been problematic in the past. I think it would certainly be worthwhile to check them.

 

The window module under the drivers seat. Unplug it for testing or swap it with a known good one.

 

Thanks, Brent. And I should correct that the odd behavior of the windows Schmurzik reported is that only ONE can be rolled up or down or up at a time.

 

Bill,

My stereo and amp were hot-wired by the PO to function without the key and even when off, the amp was ALWAYS drawing juice. Between that and the latch not shutting properly to turn off the interior/red door light(s) (now fixed) my battery was toast in a couple of days. So, amp was a factor for me. Good luck!

Regards,

David

 

"For example, the window switches only work one at a time i.e. when the driver side window is being lowered nothing can be done with the passenger side window and vice versa."

That is the way that Porsche designed it...

 

Really? OK, never noticed that. So, the windows are operating OK, but there still is about 100ma draw through that circuit when at rest. Thanks, Wally.

 

something quick disconnect the battery and remove the dome light near the rear view mirror see if the positive wire has broken off of the light fixture if it look melted or otherwise not perfect replace the light fixture, also check all of the other light fixtures the center dome light has a tendency to fracture from heat and the positive wire will contact the roof and cause a short, Stan

 

Bill,
The window controller has its retained power feature... is that staying on?
do the windows always work with the key out?? if they are staying on its likely the relay current to maintain that. If they do turn off when a door is opened then it must be something else.

Alan

 

Does the interior lighting timer do it's count even with the individual lamps off? If so, possibly another source of current draw. Again, as it should be.

 

The light timer seemed to be working OK. Power window is supposed to be operative until the door is open, right? So, the window system could draw 100 ma just sitting there in the ready state? We know we have a problem with the door pin circuit. So, that could be it. THANKS ALAN. We know the dome light is not working but we did not get to that before I had to leave, so that is a good reminder of something to check. THANKS STAN AND DREW.

 

These are all good things to check. I talked to Constantine about swinging by so we can take a look. Hope you're feeling better, Constantine!

 

Keep me posted. If I can get there I would like to help as well.

 

I still have a bit of a fever Bill, hope you're feeling well