I rented a mityvac universal coolant system pressure pump from Murray's to pressurize my coolant system and find where it was leaking 2 months ago. While I was messing around with the pump, trying to get it to fit the reservior, I noticed why what it seemed like the floodgates of coolant hell had opened last time I started the car in December. Looks like my radiator blew a seal. I finally fot the pump sealed and working, pressured to 15 psi, but there was only a small drip from the side tank. Maybe the radiator is clogged and was causing a higher than normal system pressure and blew? I don't know.

What can I do? Can the radiator be rebuilt? I have about $800 dollars left to finish everything else I want to do, which are minor things...in a hurry so cant list right now, so pretty much I dont have the bones for a shiny new radiator from DEVEK or the like. What can I do? It's a Behr two cooler.

Sorry, pics are from my camera phone....

 

Find a radiator that doesn't have two bolts protuding through it?

If they aren't the source of the leak, contact 928 international for an end tank repair kit.

 

You can buy the seals and do it yourself or have somebody else reseal it. The procedure has been posted by a couple people before. Heat probably has a large effect on the size of the leak, which is why you're only seeing a little leak with the pressure pump.

 

bolting a rather heavy possibly vibrating electric fan to the unsupported core of a radiator is a BAD IDEA. Plus it is very inefficient since air only flows from the area under the fan which is maybe 1/2 of the surface of the core which is why Porsche uses shrouds and mounts the fan away from the core so air flows over all the radiator. If you are lucky it only needs an end tank and new seal but in time that fan will damage the core. It simply was not designed or built to hold a fan.

 

Ok, the fan was a bad idea. will fix that.... end tank repair kit, eh??? I'll look into that. Anyone ever had a shop fix that before? Any idea how much it'll cost me? Thanks guys, Borys.

 

Holy crap look at them stalagtites

 

Huh? I dont get it...

 

He's making fun of the bolts thru your rad.

 

Borys:

I had an endtank replaced. $90 labor, included rodding the core. You will need to supply the part (928 Intl sells the tank and gasket). The shop I used was very familiar with Behr radiators but did not have a source for the endtank. Note that the replacement endtank is ambidextrous and has a hole for the temp sensor. So, if you are replacing the tank on the other side, there is a plug for that hole that SHOULD come with the tank.

 

Should have seen the mechanic run around the shop trying to find a plug large enough to plug that extra hole in my rebuilt Behr.
I was wondering why I could see "through" the radiator.

Lucky that temp sensor from earlier 928 will fit the opening.
Different part number. Same thread pitch/size.
Mechanic will fit a real plug on next service.
Wish 928 Int'l had warned of the ambidextrous end tanks.

Ernest (NYC) Rebuilt Behr with 2 temp sensors.

 

Replacing the end tank is the least $$ way out: it is generally a one way trip - made shorter if you bust any of the crimped tabs holding the tank on.
One of the better tips I read was to dremel/saw the old tank in half so it can easily be pulled under the tabs ..... THEN, straighten the tabs to receive the new tank.
A good rad shop will have the press recommended to squeeze the new tank in over its gasket before rebending the tabs. The tabs are a bit like matches ... the don't work so well the second time ...

 

Mounting a fan that way is a good way to ruin a new radiator. I have done it before so trust me.

Make a frame out of alum to carry the rad fan and bolt it to the rad flange.

I blew out a 3 MO brand new fluidyne custom radiator like that.

 

OK OK the fan was a mistake I get it... I can assure you that it is not the source of the leak though. If the end tank is not cracked, do I still have to replace it???

 

The plastic tank especially the passenger hottest side get very brittle over time and easily cracks. Knowing that the bending of the tabs to remove the tank is usually a one time deal it makes sense to put on a new tank with new seal. As noted the tank needs to be clamped pressed into the core so the tabs are then bent down only to hold it in place. If you try to seat the tank by bending down the tabs very often one or more tabs will break the tank will not seal and you need a replacement core.

 

Only if you remove it