Instrument LED's
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Instrument LED's
Panel lights are out on my AC control so I thought I'd check out Nicole's LED's for the AC panel. Anybody install these? Does it require removalof the dash?
#2
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Check this out. http://members.***.net/my_1987s4_928...m#illumination
If it seems too much, PM me and I'll give you the my "easie"r version. Probably not quite as "cool" more like the Jager setup and easier.
If it seems too much, PM me and I'll give you the my "easie"r version. Probably not quite as "cool" more like the Jager setup and easier.
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Chuck thanks, this is a major project. I've got a feeling that even the easier version is going to take some serious disassembly. This time consumming project may have to wait a bit.
#5
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Yes - I looked into LED replacements and there are many issues as Chuck's writeup points out. The multi-level illumination indicators are a challenge anyway but the variable illumination is a bigger problem because LED respond to varying voltage differently than incandescent bulbs. The light output to voltage characteristic varies even between different LED types (colors/construction/output).
Bulbs are significantly cheaper, available and work correctly in the car without major modifications. In the instrumentation cases they are usually run at less than full power to extend their life.
All the instrumentation bulbs can be changed to alternate colors by using latex lens covers (like for the red LCD bulbs). You loose some brightness but its possible. Brighter main dash illumination bulbs are also available (3W vs 2W). It also difficult to source LED's with the through hole PCB neo-wedge bases for the dashboard mount indicators/LCD.
Some bulbs are very hard to change -e.g. "central lock" & "!" requires disassembly and resoldering...
LED's would be better for reliability if all else was equal - but its very hard to get there from here. I scratched my head long and hard - looked at the same issues Chuck has tackled and decided to just replace everything with incandescent bulbs
- Except for one...!
I did replace the headlamp switch wedge bulb with an LED wedge equivalent - Why? - because this bulb does not dim and has no dual level illumination - its also on all the time the ignition is on - so its one of the most stressed bulbs you have.
I did fine that the LED "equivalent" was a slightly different shape and I needed to file the 90 degree shoulders off the part above the plug in wedge base (the glass capsule is just curved here). This works well and I like it!
Otherwise I'd just do bulbs (maybe colored ones...)
Alan
Bulbs are significantly cheaper, available and work correctly in the car without major modifications. In the instrumentation cases they are usually run at less than full power to extend their life.
All the instrumentation bulbs can be changed to alternate colors by using latex lens covers (like for the red LCD bulbs). You loose some brightness but its possible. Brighter main dash illumination bulbs are also available (3W vs 2W). It also difficult to source LED's with the through hole PCB neo-wedge bases for the dashboard mount indicators/LCD.
Some bulbs are very hard to change -e.g. "central lock" & "!" requires disassembly and resoldering...
LED's would be better for reliability if all else was equal - but its very hard to get there from here. I scratched my head long and hard - looked at the same issues Chuck has tackled and decided to just replace everything with incandescent bulbs
- Except for one...!
I did replace the headlamp switch wedge bulb with an LED wedge equivalent - Why? - because this bulb does not dim and has no dual level illumination - its also on all the time the ignition is on - so its one of the most stressed bulbs you have.
I did fine that the LED "equivalent" was a slightly different shape and I needed to file the 90 degree shoulders off the part above the plug in wedge base (the glass capsule is just curved here). This works well and I like it!
Otherwise I'd just do bulbs (maybe colored ones...)
Alan
#6
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Yeah -- I just finished reconditioning my pod/cluster over the weekend. The gauge illumination is satisfactory now, without having to resort to any extreme measures. Not as bright as a new car, but quite adequate.
#7
Originally Posted by SharkSkin
Yeah -- I just finished reconditioning my pod/cluster over the weekend. The gauge illumination is satisfactory now, without having to resort to any extreme measures. Not as bright as a new car, but quite adequate.
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#8
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If you just wanted brighter general illumination on the gauges - go with 4x 3W vs 4x 2W main dash illumination (plug & play solution - Sylvania bulbs)
I'm not sure I'd go higher than 3W - may get self defeating too quickly (yellowing of the light guides from heat).
Alan
I'm not sure I'd go higher than 3W - may get self defeating too quickly (yellowing of the light guides from heat).
Alan
Last edited by Alan; 02-22-2006 at 06:15 PM.
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Originally Posted by BrendanC
How WOULD be make it as bright as a new car?
#10
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Dave,
They are always on with the ignition for all years... On the later models the 4 x 1.5W LCD bulbs are also on all the time with the ignition (brightness varies with the ambient light on the dashboard face - but in daylight they are brightest). These don't run at the full 1.5W each - somewhere less for better lifetime even in the bright mode.
Alan
They are always on with the ignition for all years... On the later models the 4 x 1.5W LCD bulbs are also on all the time with the ignition (brightness varies with the ambient light on the dashboard face - but in daylight they are brightest). These don't run at the full 1.5W each - somewhere less for better lifetime even in the bright mode.
Alan
#11
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Thanks for the clarification, Alan! My girlfriend thinks it's impractical, but I for one like being able to read the gauges immediately on start. I don't always want to turn on the parking lights right away.
#12
Originally Posted by SharkSkin
You could try just replacing the bulb.
Steve B
#13
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The trickiest part IIRC is getting the outer trim piece/bezel off . After that the AC control unit just unscrews, unplugs, and comes right out. Then you have to split the case without breaking any tangs. Also check your MY to see if you have to pull the AC vents out.
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Flying Dog - Humm - made me look more - well I was wrong -
78-80 have it, 81-86 don't and then 87-95 do... Wierd... usually Porsche evolution does not go through these gyrations.
Personally I like it too. If you start in a dark garage it helps for that initial check.
Alan
78-80 have it, 81-86 don't and then 87-95 do... Wierd... usually Porsche evolution does not go through these gyrations.
Personally I like it too. If you start in a dark garage it helps for that initial check.
Alan