A Shifter Ball-Cup Tip
#1
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I was preparing a different torque tube to go into the race car this weekend, and I put my customary strap on the forward shifter to prevent front ball cup failure, and thought you fellas might also want to know about it.
Basically - if the forward ball cup should become badly worn, it is possible for the cup to slip off the ball entirely - and the car goes dead-stick at that point. The shifter is completely detached and useless.
Now, I just replaced the ball cup - so it is brand new - and the nylon cup does not slip off the ball, but the steel cup that surrounds the outside of the nylon cup slides off the nylon easily!
To make sure this does not happen during a race, a simple hose clamp installed where shown prevents the cup from rising up, then it cannot come off its perch. Needs only to be snug - not tight. Just snug enough it doesnt rattle, but allows the rod to rotate normally during shifting.
I have done this on other cars with the torque tube and exhaust in place - its a little safety item that can be added easily and it may prevent you from getting towed home.
Basically - if the forward ball cup should become badly worn, it is possible for the cup to slip off the ball entirely - and the car goes dead-stick at that point. The shifter is completely detached and useless.
Now, I just replaced the ball cup - so it is brand new - and the nylon cup does not slip off the ball, but the steel cup that surrounds the outside of the nylon cup slides off the nylon easily!
To make sure this does not happen during a race, a simple hose clamp installed where shown prevents the cup from rising up, then it cannot come off its perch. Needs only to be snug - not tight. Just snug enough it doesnt rattle, but allows the rod to rotate normally during shifting.
I have done this on other cars with the torque tube and exhaust in place - its a little safety item that can be added easily and it may prevent you from getting towed home.
#3
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Carl, it looks as though the hose clamp could shift rearward over time, eventually becoming ineffective. What are your thoughts on putting the clamp over the threaded portion so this doesn't happen?
#4
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Yes, you could do that. Actually, there is a flat dimpled spot on the top of the rod (almost as if Porsche had intended a strap to be put there) and I put my straps in that flat spot for exactly the reason you mention.
But - if I was doing this with the torque tube in the car - finding the "flat spot could be tricky - so your idea might be easier/faster/simpler.
But - if I was doing this with the torque tube in the car - finding the "flat spot could be tricky - so your idea might be easier/faster/simpler.
#5
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Agreed - a good tip: Dave, I did install over the threads to prevent slippage to the rear, as in ...
04-06-2004, 02:01 PM #11
Garth S
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...... Having had the shifter mechanism once come adrift at speed... A new ball cup is the only solution, and does firm up the shifts.
For what it's worth, I secured the shifter rod to the torque tube with a large hose clamp (~6" diameter) - just snug enough to not rattle around. If in future, the ball cup disintregates and the shifter tries to part company - it can't!!!
The same hose clamp can also be used to compress the new ball cup into popping down over the ball stud.
__________________
'80 Copper brown 5-sp, Konis, CS wheels,S4 wing - no sunroof
'88 Euro, Nougat brown, GTS rear, Konis, BBS -no sunroof
.... or in this link . The heavy tie-wrap is actually better for my purposes, as it cannot damage the threads ( who cares!), and is silent.
04-06-2004, 02:01 PM #11
Garth S
Addict
Rennlist Member
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
...... Having had the shifter mechanism once come adrift at speed... A new ball cup is the only solution, and does firm up the shifts.
For what it's worth, I secured the shifter rod to the torque tube with a large hose clamp (~6" diameter) - just snug enough to not rattle around. If in future, the ball cup disintregates and the shifter tries to part company - it can't!!!
The same hose clamp can also be used to compress the new ball cup into popping down over the ball stud.
__________________
'80 Copper brown 5-sp, Konis, CS wheels,S4 wing - no sunroof
'88 Euro, Nougat brown, GTS rear, Konis, BBS -no sunroof
.... or in this link . The heavy tie-wrap is actually better for my purposes, as it cannot damage the threads ( who cares!), and is silent.
#6
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Another option to consider when this assembly is out of the car is to replace the ball cup with a heim joint. It would be one that could thread into the shaft as the ball-cup does, but then you would tap a new hole where the ball is on the TT, and install a heim shaft of the proper diameter.
#7
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Everyone, I just did this procedure. My .02...
- The standard ball cup bushing for the clutch fork worked like a champ.
- I would only recommend this if the engine is out or if you have PLENTY of clearance to actually get at this piece as it is majorly a PITA.
- Once you loosen the locknut, remove from vehicle.
- Put in vice grip and take a smal flat blade screw driver around it. It almost reminds me of taking off a bicylcle tire.
- Once the inner lip is off you can probably remove with whatever various tool you are comfortable with.
- I put a super thin coat of silione grease on the shell of the new bushing just to help slide in. This will take some force to get in.
- Once the bushin is partially in, I took a 6" c clamp and forced it all the way in. There was just enough pressure to start pushing the outer edges back in the inner lip.
- I then took a small flat blade and started tucking it back in around again just like putting a bicycle tire on.
-All in all it took about me slow self about 30-45 minutes on the bench to complete. YMMV.
Well that's how it worked for me... GOOD LUCK!
- The standard ball cup bushing for the clutch fork worked like a champ.
- I would only recommend this if the engine is out or if you have PLENTY of clearance to actually get at this piece as it is majorly a PITA.
- Once you loosen the locknut, remove from vehicle.
- Put in vice grip and take a smal flat blade screw driver around it. It almost reminds me of taking off a bicylcle tire.
- Once the inner lip is off you can probably remove with whatever various tool you are comfortable with.
- I put a super thin coat of silione grease on the shell of the new bushing just to help slide in. This will take some force to get in.
- Once the bushin is partially in, I took a 6" c clamp and forced it all the way in. There was just enough pressure to start pushing the outer edges back in the inner lip.
- I then took a small flat blade and started tucking it back in around again just like putting a bicycle tire on.
-All in all it took about me slow self about 30-45 minutes on the bench to complete. YMMV.
Well that's how it worked for me... GOOD LUCK!
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#9
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Haha..reminds me of a comment in the PPI of my first 928 (1984 928 S 5sp)...The seller actually insisted I get a PPI...even though..as a newbie at the time..I was just anxious to get into a 928
Got the report back and it said something along the lines of "shifter held together by bungie cords" haha.....
I of course got assurance from the seller that it was not a big deal..just a Pain in the butt to fix...But he did sell me a new bushing for the forward shifter cup
.
Oh..forgot to mention...the seller was Mark A of a place called 928 Intl. Does anyone know him
..haha...
later,
Tom
current ride - 89GT
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I of course got assurance from the seller that it was not a big deal..just a Pain in the butt to fix...But he did sell me a new bushing for the forward shifter cup
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Oh..forgot to mention...the seller was Mark A of a place called 928 Intl. Does anyone know him
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
later,
Tom
current ride - 89GT