crackerfeet

Has anyone ever rebuilt a steering rack?
Is it worth the effort to source all of the seals and such or just buy a rebuilt one?

jyoon

here is a writeup of the rack rebuild. i thought the 944's and the 928s were the same. if not, the procedure should be similar.

http://www.arnnworx.com/SteeringRack.htm

Jim bailey - 928 International

That is a GREAT link ! the racks are similar.

IcemanG17

Possible...yes..I think the reseal kits are around $70. Difficult.....and very time consuming..YES....just buy the already rebuilt warrantied rack from Jim for $395....thats what I'm gonna do once mine starts leaking (they all do eventually)

GlenL

Does any kit or re-built rack include the right-end "guide ring?" (As shown in the 944 link.)

This creeps and gets thin over time which allows the right end to move around. That's the bit that actually holds the main rod straight. A number of people have reported the same problem in right wheel motion thats traced to the rod moving.

I swapped in a better piece off a scrap rack which provided some improvement. Have gotten a re-built rack previously from a reputable source that was already wobbly.

Garth S

Equally interested in stabilizing the main shaft with whatever bushing is required. I still have such a rack as previously discussed that has a bad case of 'wobbly shaft' - and is sitting around awaiting surgery.
Thanks for the link jyoon!

deliriousga

Not sure if it's in there, but here's a link to Carl's (928 Motorsports) kit http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...rebuildkit.php

Earl Gillstrom

Garth, I had the problem with the rack moving back and forth on my '91GT that came to me with an old rebuilt rack. I made delrin bushings that fit into the ends of the rack and eliminate movement. I have done several others with dramitic results. It makes the car much more sensitive. There is almost no play in the steering wheel since there is no slop in the rack (assuming good mounting rubber bushings). I have been asked why I don't sell the delrin bushings. The main reasons are, the rack housing is not machined on the inside where the bushing goes, so, must be sanded to fit, (2) liability. I drilled and tapped a hole in the bottom of the rack for a set screw that goes into the delrin to keep it from falling out. If it would fall out, it could limit steering in one direction. That old rack that came in my '91 started to leak , so was replaced with an '88 that was not leaking. I resealed that rack and put the delrin bushing in the drivers side. I will wait and see. You could try this. Have a machine shop make a delrin bushing with the ID the size of the rack and the OD too big to fit in the housing and 3/4 inch long. Then file or sand the OD to fit. It is tapered. I made mine 1" long and then after sanding cut them off flush, drilled and taped for the setscrew. The setscrew ( actually not a "setscrew") that I used had a very small round head so as to not interfere with the boot.

Earl Gillstrom

Mike,

Sorry Michael, I hijacked your thread to answer Garth's question.
To answer your question: I have resealed a rack. It is a PITA. It takes a long time and you have to be very careful. I counted 33 different seals in the rack. That also assumes that there is no wear in the rack. It seems to me that it would be a good idea to buy from a reputaple rebuilder. If your rack was rebuilt before, it would be a very bad idea to rebuild it yourself as it is probably worn and needs parts other than seals.

BC

I'm confused. Where are you putting these bushings?

Garth S

Very interesting Earl.
Strangely enough, Gruffalo and I had PM'd several times collaborating on developing an almost similar approach last June - as we had both shared the same alignment issue. Recognizing that the interior surface of the external tips of the rack are far from symmetric ( as you noted), I chickened out from making the bushings and replaced the rack. You have inspired me to reattack this external fix rather that opening the guts of the rack resting on the bench. I do agree that is an approach that should really stabilize the main shaft. Sanding to fit is the key .... Thanks!
I had only planned to address the wobble on the right side with a bushing, as the left (driver) had not seemed to be a problem when tested on the Hunter alignment rack ( very short extension of the racks main shaft left of the pinion). Did you find it necessary to do both sides?

BC

You mean you are adding an almost external bnusuing not originally included? Even after rebuilding to spec?

Garth S

Yes - in theory for me and in practice for Earl ( unless I misunderstood his post)

In my case, I had had the rack rebuilt commercially: they did a great job in that the rack is perfectly leak free; however, the right side of the main shaft is as stiff as wet spaghetti. Either there had been some undetected wear of internal centering bushings ... or they had been left out on reassembly. I suspect the latter.
The thought of an external fix was attractive .... now even more so as Earl has developed and proven the feasibility.
The reseal kits appear to contain several handfuls of O-rings and seals - but no bushings. Glen identified items 24 & 25 in the ZF diag found in the link on my first post here (under " previously discussed") as being crucial to centering; however, these items are apparently not in the overhaul kits.

BC

I think the clouds are lifting. I've rebuilt two racks with just the seal kits. The hard bushings have never been worn or removed. Even on the 78 rack I did. I have one more rack to do - my 85. I will have to remember this.

Earl - are you still making those bushings? That could be used even if the rack is already tight. NOrthing wrong iwth more strength.

BC

Earl - are you still making those bushings? That could be used even if the rack is already tight. Nothing wrong with more strength.