atb

Carl,

The pan stud kit is rockin'. Nice work. As soon as the wallet recovers I'll be putting in my order for sure.

-Adam

Carl Fausett

I do not reallly agree with this - but it is all about the word "significant".

Most of the books on engine blueprinting recommend balancing individual parts to the gram. I have balanced and blueprinted my share of motors, and I always went to the .1 gram or lower, just because I could.

There is a nice write-up on balancing the 928 engine on this Forum... it is entitled "Balancing the 928 Engine - some surprises" Look it over, it has good pictures too.

After you static-balance all the rods and pistons, you take a rod assembly complete with bearing cap, bearing, wrist pin, nuts, and piston - to the engine shop to have your crank spin-balanced to match. The counter-weights are added to or removed from to match the rotating mass (sometimes called flyweight) of this assembly.

I would include these nuts into your balance job because they are 1 gram lighter.

Herr-Kuhn

Good Work Carl....Great to see another motor going together with Nikasil and Forged Pistons...the best combo going! About 15,000 miles on my Nikasil/JE and still running really strong. I've got a block in Wisconsin right now getting the once over. 4.7 Euro getting the bottle feeding by spring...Callaway car "No. 4" upgrade.

Re...Clutches. I spoke with Spec this week, they claim the Stage 3+ is rated to about 550 ft-lbs, maybe a bit more. This might fit my needs well as I'm thinking I'll be making over 600 ft-lbs with the new car.

Getting studs out of the 928 engine can be difficult. If you get a tough one, I recommend heating the block where they thread in...this breaks the grip pretty well. I had one block that took two men to remove the studs from...that was with a huge leverage arm as well.

Carl Fausett

Here is the link to the thread about engine balancing:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...+928+surprises

Kuhn: - the engine in these pics is not Nikasil plated. It's sleeved.
Hard to tell from just photos, I'll give you that.
On the clutches - I was wrong to describe a clutch as a "650 HP clutch" - clutches only hold against torque, they do not hold against HP. Our clutches
made for us by SPEC are manufactured to our specification which is 650 lb\ft.

Sterling: you're right, trade-off time. Trading one feature for another. But I would add, I have dropped my lower cross member a number of times and reinstalled it - checked the alignment - and it did not change.

BC

Its sleeved, but its a pressed in LINER, really, as opposed to a sleeve.

Imo000

If the oil pan gasket is upgraded to the new poly unit, the studs will no longer be a factor casue the pan would never have to come out.

Herr-Kuhn

Sleeves....UGH! Did I mention we are eliminating the sleeved block in my Brother's Callaway in favor of the Nikasil unit? He can't seem to get the engine to stop burning lots of oil. That sleeved motor will now be my garage stand motor.

I did think the Nikasil in that photo was not as "golden" as it should be

Carl Fausett

Right - right- right. My bad. Guilty of slipshod word use. The term liner and sleeve are too often interchanged... I like the term "wet sleeve" - then everybody knows the difference right away.

Herr Kuhn - here we go... will we spin into a debate on how to control cylinder wall deformation on the 928 under heavy boost? I think we already did that. There are several ways to keep the cylinder walls from tuliping.

Herr-Kuhn

No issues if your sleeving is well done, it will work. I've just heard of too many issues with it. My Brother's Callaway motor has been sleeved 2X. Honestly, he doesn't know if this is from the sleeves or not, but it has been Mickey Moused too many times, so we are starting from new. Rumor is the engine has rods and o-ringed heads. Somehow I doubt it.

I don't think cylinder wall flex is much of an issue provided you keep it all in balance. Lots of guys on 18-20 psig on stock 951 motors. I'm just looking to run a modest 12-13 psig on the S4. I know I won't need sleeves for that one at all. 500+HP with low boost levels will be hard to argue with.

Again, nice work on the studs!

Question...how much piston to wall are you running with the steel sleeves? With the Nikasil I run 0.0025", this is with the 2618 higher expansion alloy forged piston. I'd guess you are close or maybe a little more because as I recall you used a different alloy piston in that motor. For 2618 in a cast iron block, JE wants you to go a full 0.004"-0.005".

Carl Fausett

We considered allen holes on one end, etc. but 1) it seriously added to the cost, and 2) we discovered we did not need them. They turn in with your fingers - no tool needed.

The installation process for the oil pan studs is this:

0) you have removed you oil pan and scraped the gasket surface clean.

1) (wearing safety glasses) you spray up into the threaded hole of each oil pan bolt/stud with brake cleaner. Let dry. Do NOT skip this step. Loctite products will not set up in the presence of oil or anti-seize compounds.

2) apply a drop of Loctite red onto the short end of the stud and spin it into the block. Do not worry about tightening them at this time, when you apply the high-interference nut we supplied, the studs will be tightened in all the way against their shoulder automatically.

Optional step 2) start one of the nuts supplied onto each stud on the long side.
put your gasket in place and the oil pan. Use sealer if you want to. Put a drop of Loctite red on the short end of each stud and run them through the holes in the oil pan as if they were bolts. Tighten. The stud will turn into the block first until it hits the shoulder, then the nut will move down the stud and clamp the oil pan.

BC

A wet sleeve would remove ALL of the original tower in our or any other open deck block, and have the entire tower be a new steel tower sitting fulling in the coolant.

A dry sleeve is when most of the tower but not all is machined away to that a T-sleeve is pressed into the AL tower.

A liner is just what you have - very little of the original AL tower is removed at the ID, and a steel LINER is pressed into the basically-same tower as OEM. It is simply bored out to accept the steel.

Bill Ball

Carl, it's certainly nice of you to be so agreeable, but I'm puzzled. I did not know you could get the oil pan off without removing the crossmember, even in stock configuration with bolts on the pan. Sure, you could lift the motor enough to remove the pan with crossmember in place, but I can't see how your studs obviate that - you just need to raise it an inch or so higher. I would think the MMs would have to be loosened in either case to get the motor high enough for the pan to clear all the obstructions.

I am "Mr. Shortcut" (rear main seal with AT tranny still in car, etc.), and if I got hornswaggled into removing the crossmember to get the pan off when I didn't need to, I am embarrassed.

Also, I sure was never told removing the crossmember affects alignment. You remove the bolts holding the lower half of the mount retaining the lower A-arm to the body mounts and swing the arm out of the way. After the crossmember is removed, the pan serviced and replaced, you bolt it back to the same place. The body mounts cradle the big A-arm bushing very tightly and seem to assure it will get back to where it came from. If there is any variability in the way the A-arm bolts back up, I have not heard of that before.

Anyway, on subject - very nice job again on creating some useful kits.

Carl Fausett

No problems there. All Loctite Red, Green, and Purple products are designed to be dis-assembled with heat. Loctite Blue does not require heat. You can remove some Loctite red assemblies without heat too - but sometimes you will mung up the threads that way.

I like the little pin-point torches for this. Usually butane, sometimes propane, available in most hardware stores. You can get a nice one for under $20 all day. They have a very accurate, locallized flame. Some will do only 1200 degrees F, some say they go as high as 2400 Deg F. They are re-fillable.

If you ever need to get out a fastener sealed with loctite red, you heat the fastener with your tiny torch, and turn it right out. That is the proper procedure according to Loctite and the ASE.

BTW - these same little torches are the answer to camshaft tower allen bolts that do not want to bust loose. Over time, there becomes a galvanic action of two dissimilar metals - the Grade 5 steel fastener is in an aluminum block - and they galvanize themselves together. We all know what a bitch they can be to break free.

Take the little torch and heat the head of the bolt nice and hot. Let Cool. then the bolt will turn right out. The hot fastener expands in the threaded hole, effectively crushing and compacting the galvanic residue - then the bolt cools down, and is now swaller than before. Works like a charm.