Re-paint?
#31
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Shane -- a bit late for this I know, but denatured alcohol will take tree sap & tar off effortlessly without damaging the paint. It will also strip off every bit of wax, even the white stuff caked into the cracks.
#32
Sharkaholic
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks I'll keep that in mind! I'll need to remove all the crap that stuck to my unprotected paint on the drive down to SF05 and back! It is going to take a day of just cleaning again to bring it back to where it was in those pics.
#34
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Shane
This is how my paint looked after a wash with dawn soap, clay bar, and then the follow up wash with mild car wash soap. I did this prep for putting some rejex on but still have not bought the rejex.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/dsc02135.jpg)
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/dsc02136_copy1.jpg)
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/dsc02158_copy1.jpg)
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/dsc02135.jpg)
Harvey
#38
Sharkaholic
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
You guys are too much!!
The pics are out of sequence and leave it to 928 owners to catch anything odd!!
Last vacation I pulled the car out of the shop, drove really fast to town and back to give Helmut some exercise. Washed him like I mentioned above, put him back in the shop to do some service work on him and start the vortec install. So once I stoled the nice turbo twists from Heidi, who isn't going anywhere for a while, and put 'em on Helmut, I thought what a nice time to take some more pics!
Harvey as you say it looks real nice in the pics, but up close and personal with the clay bar in hand you get to see ALL the little imperfections you would not otherwise notice.
#40
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey guys....
More likely your car is oxized but clay will NOT help that situation. Clay is designed to remove surface contamination, like sap, overspray and rail dust but doesn't do much for oxidation.
You'll need to abrade away the oxidation with a mild polish and a polisher. I would recommend Menzerna Intensive Polish or Optimum Polish. These are very mild polishes but do a wonderful job at removing oxidation to reveal the original beauty.
If you have any specific questions please ask and perhaps I can help out.
Anthony
More likely your car is oxized but clay will NOT help that situation. Clay is designed to remove surface contamination, like sap, overspray and rail dust but doesn't do much for oxidation.
You'll need to abrade away the oxidation with a mild polish and a polisher. I would recommend Menzerna Intensive Polish or Optimum Polish. These are very mild polishes but do a wonderful job at removing oxidation to reveal the original beauty.
If you have any specific questions please ask and perhaps I can help out.
Anthony
#41
928 Collector
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Anthony my paint is excellent but I have a panel where the paint is cracking at the edges near window trim (a repainted panel). Can I smooth it somehow? econd question ... I have had cars with bird poop spots where the clercoat was eaten away and was told clearcoat could not be resprayed without base resparay too ... is this true?
Thanks
Heinrich
Thanks
Heinrich
#42
Banned
Join Date: May 2001
Location: The Great Northwest
Posts: 12,264
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I follow the concourse area where Anthony spends most of his time. He and a few others there are excellent. They are as important to our paint as Louie, Wally, Jim B, DR and many others are to our drivetrains
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
#43
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Anthony Orosco
You'll need to abrade away the oxidation with a mild polish and a polisher. I would recommend Menzerna Intensive Polish or Optimum Polish. These are very mild polishes but do a wonderful job at removing oxidation to reveal the original beauty.
#44
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by heinrich
Anthony my paint is excellent but I have a panel where the paint is cracking at the edges near window trim (a repainted panel). Can I smooth it somehow? econd question ... I have had cars with bird poop spots where the clercoat was eaten away and was told clearcoat could not be resprayed without base resparay too ... is this true?
Thanks
Heinrich
Thanks
Heinrich
A picture of that area would be helpful and also is it clear coated?
It is not always necessary to apply a base color for spot repairs unless the damage has also affected the base color. I have seen guys do repairs with just spraying clear but again only because the base color had not been damaged.
In the future always rinse off bird poo as quickly as possible as it is very acidic...seagulls on the California coast crap some of the nasty nuclear waste I have ever seen!! It can eat through a clear coat in no time flat. I have been able to wetsand some poo stains and minimized their appearance but once etched in the clear nothing short of some paint work can completely cure it.
Take a picture of that area if possible and post it up.
Anthony
#45
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by the flyin' scotsman
Anthony.................what methods do you use 'to abrade the oxidation'? By hand or otherwise?
Heat and friction are needed to properly abrade or "level" down paint and ones hand can only develop so much heat and friction before tiring out so this is where a polishing machine comes into play. There are numerous polishers out there considered "noob" safe. The Porter Cable (also known as the PC) is perhaps the most popular choice. These can be bought at stores where Porter Cable tools are sold, like Lowes or Home Depot. I also believe that DeWalt also makes an orbital sander/polisher that can be used for paint polishing.
I have several orbital polishers but not the PC instead I use the Cyclo polisher which is a dual head polishing machine that was developed for aircraft/aluminum polishing. The Cyclo is the better tool but it is also about $100 more than the PC.
An orbital polisher is very safe for your paint as it produces low heat and friction. This is because the pads oscillate (OPM's), much like an oval pattern ones hand does when applying polish or wax, which is why they don't leave behind any buffer swirls. A high speed polisher goes by RPM's, anywhere from 700 up to 3000 RPM's (although one should NEVER run past 1700 rpm's) and these can be very dangerous in the wrong hands! Because of the great heat and friction generated by these buffers one can easily burn through the paint and/or cause halograms in the paint. A buffer halogram is something which looks like a 3-D ribbon flowing through your paint.
It is also this same heat and friction which levels out the paint to produce a glass like finish to ones paint. In the right hands it can be a tool that produces a work of art, so to speak.
In the case of single stage paint oxidation (clear coats don't oxidize) one should be able to produce a stunning finish with just an orbital polisher, although it will take longer. The right pads and product are key because if you have a product that is too abrasive then you will remove oxidation but leave behind ugly marring. This is why I recommened the Menzerna or Optimum. One may also need a few pads, like a mild polishing pad and a few finishing pads, some drinks and a few hours to spend on the car
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Below is a (If I remember correctly) 1987 Guards Red 911 which was badly oxidized.
![](http://img250.imageshack.us/img250/8561/fndrdull3cf.jpg)
Now after some polishing we were able to bring back the paints original depth and beauty.
![](http://img250.imageshack.us/img250/163/optfndr0fn.jpg)
Hope this helps somewhat,
Anthony