ROG100

When I opened up discussions with RockAuto they had no experience with these parts at all and no real control over wether you would get solid or hydraulic.
I prefer to go with the manufacture on this one.
RockAuto is a great supplier at cheap prices.

H2

Because the issue of solid vs haudraulic is still not cleared up for me...if it's hollow and sloshes, I'm still not sure how the mount can be "solid." But both the pro and con sournces of this info seem to be credible...so what's a DIYer like me to believe? Either way, I'm tired of ordering and sending mounts back and hydraulic mounts worked for years in these cars before wearing out...also the build quality of the Rock Auto mounts was obviously not as good as that of 928 Motorsports.. (from a visual standpoint anyway)..but it remains to be seen which which the variety of MMs out there really work out best. What I DON"t want is to spend 6-8 hours putting them in just to have them fail...nor do I want to spend the obscene Porsche price for something that should be a relatively simple part. Reason (and many people's experience) seem to demonstrate that solid rubber isn't bad...and logic tells me that solid rubber is better than hollow rubber made in a 3rd world technology developing country.

ROG100

Harvey,
"hydraulic mounts worked for years in these cars before wearing out"
This is a key point - every car I buy or see has failed MM. My 93 GTS had failed MM when I bought it three years ago. Who knows how long they were collapsed before I bought it.
IMOO the factory MM fail very quickly but no one notices. They fail because of leakage of the fluid which then collapses the MM leaving a lump of solid rubber that acts as a MM until the vibrations cause the owner to check what is wrong or someone who knows how to check MM says they need changing.
The "proof is in the pudding" - I have not seen or read about a failure of the aftermarket MM. Heirich has had them on his car for 6 years and 20k miles.
The job is not that hard to do and can be done in less than 8 hours with some help and knowledge.
The latest information posted about how to align the cross member bolt has knocked about two hours of the job for me.
Shame you are not closer as I would gladly change yours out for you.
This is the best modification for our cars I know and the difference is "night and day". You need to change the MM ASAP and join the hundreds of happy and satisfied users.
Worst case you might have to do it again in 6 years!!!!

ROG100

The quick and easy MM check.
1) If the height of the top of your inlet manifold is level with the bottom of the cross brace or lower your MM are toast. I am not happy unless the top of the inlet manifold is above that of the cross brace.
2) Rev the engine while looking at it by using the throttle linkage, or get someone to rev the car for you. If the engine rocks your MM have life in them - if the engine stays solid and does not move your MM are toast.
Hope this helps someone.

auzivision

I’ve been lurking on this site off and on since purchasing a 928 couple years ago. This is my first post to this website so I hope it comes across okay. Thanks to all the knowledge everyone shares here and a few other sites, I’ve decided to take on the MM R&R along with a new rack, tie rod ends, upper ball boots, 1 lower control arm and all the P/S lines and cooler.

This is coming from a guy who until 2 months ago, didn’t change his own oil and wasn’t real sure how to jack up a car. It came down to learning/experiencing something new… plus, the amount of money my local mechanic has been charging for questionable work was wearing on me.

Thanks to 928 Specialists taking several weeks to fulfill my order (which still hasn’t arrived), I was able to change my mind and save nearly $500 on the MMs in the process. At this point I have the rack and sway bar completely off, one lower arm off, all the visible bolts on the MM removed and have jacked the engine about 1 inch.

Quick Questions:

Several mentions have been stated about removing the MM pin on the bottom. Wouldn’t that be the top? Doesn’t the metal end sit on the crossmember with the rubber end up? My 2698 Anchor Mounts from RA are the ones manufactured in India and don’t slosh when shaken. (Hydraulic I presume).

I couldn’t find nylon locknut at Home Depot. The only locknuts they had in stock were solid steel, but they obviously got smaller on one end and became very difficult to thread once they reach the restriction; anything wrong with using these?

When lowering the crossmember, is it possible to removing the horizontal bolt and just loosening the rest on one side while removing the bolts on the other? I’m hoping to get the MM in and out and keep it inline in the process. I’ve read where people have struggled getting things to line up afterwards.

A friend of mine suggested I apply anti-cease on all the bolts before reassemble in case I need to do this again. So far with a PW Blaster (another much appreciated tip) and my recently acquired impact wrench, it hasn’t been too bad. Is this a good or bad idea?

Regarding the tie rod ends and upper ball joints… is there any certain kind of grease I should use? I seem to recall reading something about different types of grease are in compatible with each other (not that I know what is currently there).

Thanks in advance for any tips of suggestions you may offer.


Kurt Auzins
87 S4 Auto, Guards Red

docmirror

***Pin is at top***

***Anti-seize is great stuff, use it.****

***Metal lock-nuts are fine***

***No. Not sure if I understand, but remove all the bolts on the crossmember including the horz ones. Take the crossmember, heat shields, and MMs out as a unit. Clean the heck out of it, tighten your pan bolts. Install the MM on the MM housing and loosly thread them to the crossmember. Start jamming the whole assembly back up in with a helper. Use helpers or tie the hubs outward to allow movement area with the crossmember. Your air ratchet will be handy to start a few crossmember bolts at this point. Follow the punch method or use a jack to line up the horz bolts on the crossmember.***

***Some greases have additives that can be incompatible. Lithium Disulfide, and other stuff for special applications. Just get a tube of general grease, usually refered to as 'type L' and you'll be fine. Do not use trailer, white, or extended life types.****

Doc

aircooler

Hello Kurt

Welcome to the Nut House!

auzivision

Ah, what a feeling. Tonight I have two very worn MMs in my hand. I presume it’s all uphill from here, but at least I know where I’m going (I think). Actually I don’t believe I’ve hit bottom yet. I still want to replace all the P/S hoses and it appears that the easiest way to get at the connection on the pump is to remove the Alternator. Anybody have any words of wisdom when it comes to P/S line or alternator removal?

Hey Watercooler… thanks for the warm welcome. I think I’m just nuts enough to fit right in. I liked your website and someday would like to compare notes on audio systems. I’ve installed MB Quart Q-series drivers all the way around (4s in the back, 5s in the front, and 6s in the middle) with power supplied by an Alpine amp. I don’t recall the size… roughly 400 watts I think. Long term I want to add at GPS system and a sub woofer.

Dave Hamilton

I took the opportunity, while I was in the USA to purchase a set of the anchor hydraulic mounts as, though I didn't need them at the time, it seemed to good a price to miss. I bought them from a Napa outlet in one town while doing a national parks tour - very good 5 states in 8 days, or was that 8 states in 5 days? Anyway a day or so later I noticed one was leaking so I took it back to a nearby Napa nd exchanged it without problem. I bagged them up well and put them in a suitcase and off we went home. On arrival I found a lot of oil in the bag and one was obviously leaking (or the second Napa guy pulled a fast one on me). I lost faith in them and have since bought a pair of Carl's solid mounts and am very happy with them. I was surprised in this long thread to see only one other mention of leaking, maybe I was just very unlucky.

Dave
86 S2 5Spd

Rob Edwards

Dave-

One of my RockAuto-sourced Anchor mounts was leaky (looked like really thin pale-tan oil), the pic is elsewhere in the thread. I returned them and got solids from Carl- no leaks yet , though he did forget to remove the little black 'Made in India' sticker from them....

ROG100

Hi Kurt,
Welcome and well done on tackling the MM job.
Are you using the "real" gasket to replace the cork one on the oil pan?
Once you use the "real"gasket she will never leak again.

Wait until you start her up with the new MM's, like a night and day difference.
Keep us informed of the progress.
Roger

ROG100

Back to my pet subject - MM's.

Hearing about the leaking gave me a little concern and especially after Anchor told me they had started using multiple sources for their product.

I started to dig back through my contacts at Ford Motor Company and tried to establish who the original supplier of MM's was. It is possible that Anchor may be the aftermarket supplier of these particular MM's. Corteco seems to be the original supplier and has both the hydraulic and solid in there cataloge. They also went through the very rigerous testing proceedures to establish there part suitable for production. Been there and done that many times.

I have now purchased a set of each of these MM. The solid is solid rubber and does not slosh when shaken. The hydraulic unit has liquid in it as you would expect and can hear when shaken. Made in the USA and visually of very good quality. I also confirmed this with the technical people at Corteco.

I will let you know how I get on with the solid ones when I fit them to my 87.
These are $29 each plus shipping.

For those of us who don't want to get to **** about MM's, Carl's fit the bill and he obviously will support you if anything happens to them. Plus you are supporting a 928 supplier.

I was very suprised that they were manufactured in India as this indicates they are Anchor maybe??

Schocki

Kurt,
Roger is absolutely right about the Realgasket, change it! My GTS was the first on the road with this oil pan gasket, the car is bone dry since then. Not a single leak!

auzivision

Hi,

Thanks for asking about the MM project. I remounted the cross member last weekend and buttoned up the suspension this weekend. This included R&R the tie rods which were too tight so I paid $30 to have a mechanic disconnect and reconnect the inners on the rack. In fact, the old rack appeared to be okay so I’m sending back the new one (thanks to Jeanie @ 928 Specialists).

The Biggest hurtles today were those pesky little upper ball joint boots. It took a couple hours to figure out and manipulate the retaining rings on these little buggers. Unfortunately, I pocked a small hole in one and a little grease is spitting out. I hope it last a little while.

What’s up with all the torque specs? Are they really that important or just friendly suggestions? I spanked a 110 ft/lbs to lower control arms after borrowing my neighbors half inch torque wrench (my little 3/8 has been relinquished to light duty only). The bigger the bolt/nut the harder I hit them, but is there a rule of thumb where spec are important versus close enough for all practical purposes? Like with the MM, I tightened as tight as I could with the given wrench short of stripping.

I’m guessing if they are part of the engine, better be precise… or if they are high, better hit then hard, but what about all the middle stuff? Also, how do you tell how much tension to put on the belts? In my case, I replaced the P/S and alternator belts. If I squeeze them together, how much should they give? Nothing, a quarter, a half inch…. what’s the rule of thumb here?

Regarding the pan gasket… the PO had replaced the gasket including new bolts so I didn’t replace… just snugged. Haven't had any leaks there. Latter I will make up my top ten list of things I’ve learned along the way that I wish I knew going in. Thanks again for all your support and encouragement; after next weekend, I hope to drive it to an alignment rack. De-ja-vu… that what started this whole adventure.


Sincerely,

Kurt Auzins
1987 Guards Red 928 S4, Auto, RMB
Fishers, IN

UKKid35

This is what I was advised to do, and the repair has lasted a couple of years so far. The puncture repair has been applied to both inside and out.