DIY 928 supercharger page
03-06-2006, 01:02 PM
#16
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Thread Starter
A big thanks to Bill Ball for putting the website together and and taking the time to help me out with the DIY 928 Supercharger pistures/descriptions. Also thanks for the Norcal928 group for hosting the website.
The following is a direct link to the DIY SC site : http://norcal928.org/DIYSC/
The following is a direct link to the DIY SC site : http://norcal928.org/DIYSC/
03-06-2006, 03:11 PM
#19
Great job man. I should drive up there one of these days to get a real good look at that system. It would be interesting to figure out if that bracket is the same dimensions as you'd need on a 16v 4.7liter. 
Last edited by m21sniper; 03-06-2006 at 05:51 PM.
03-06-2006, 05:49 PM
#21
Paxton unit. Ok, what is your crank pulley and blower pulley size? Looks like you are overspining the unit by a great deal? I ran a Paxton SN 2000 and SN 91 unit but went through both in short order spinning them past the recommended speed. Now, I'm running a Procharger that will spin safely to 62,000 rpm. however, I loved the way the Paxton sounded vs the Procharger.
03-06-2006, 06:13 PM
#23
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Not close enough to VIR.
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Originally Posted by m21sniper
It would be interesting to figure out if that bracket is the same dimensions as you'd need on a 16v 4.7liter.
03-06-2006, 10:52 PM
#24
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone!
Sniper: The bracket as FlyingDog pointed out will fit if the oil return tube or if the bracket is slightly modified. The block off plate for the tube on the 32V is just a bit covred by the bracket. I'm sure that even using a lager spacers to offset the bracket will clear the tube.
Jim: I haven't calculated the ratio. I didn't feel the need cause the original pulley for the Trans Am kit was just ever so slightly larger than the Crown Vic pulley. The SC pulley is the same as before. This kit was originaly for a '93 Trans Am LT1. It produced around 6 psis and it is still producing around 6psi, so the ratio is the same as what Paxton originaly designed. I had this SC for a long time and all I did to freshen it up is to replace the 2 seals and the 2 O-rings. Everything else inside was as good as new.
It disn't seem that much time when I built this setup. I never really kept track of it, but my guess is that 4 weekends should be enough to get the non intercooled system done.
I'm almost finished with the final version of the intercooler system. It utilizes two Volvo intercooler cores welded together with "custom" end tanks. The tanks were cut out of a sheet of aluminium that I bought at the local scrap metal yard for $5! I'm taking the IC to a professional welder to have the tanks and the cores welded on. I don't have access to a TIG welder and since I never used one I thought it would be a better choice to be done by a pro. As much as I like doing my own wrenching, some things are better left to a expert.
Sniper: The bracket as FlyingDog pointed out will fit if the oil return tube or if the bracket is slightly modified. The block off plate for the tube on the 32V is just a bit covred by the bracket. I'm sure that even using a lager spacers to offset the bracket will clear the tube.
Jim: I haven't calculated the ratio. I didn't feel the need cause the original pulley for the Trans Am kit was just ever so slightly larger than the Crown Vic pulley. The SC pulley is the same as before. This kit was originaly for a '93 Trans Am LT1. It produced around 6 psis and it is still producing around 6psi, so the ratio is the same as what Paxton originaly designed. I had this SC for a long time and all I did to freshen it up is to replace the 2 seals and the 2 O-rings. Everything else inside was as good as new.
It disn't seem that much time when I built this setup. I never really kept track of it, but my guess is that 4 weekends should be enough to get the non intercooled system done.
I'm almost finished with the final version of the intercooler system. It utilizes two Volvo intercooler cores welded together with "custom" end tanks. The tanks were cut out of a sheet of aluminium that I bought at the local scrap metal yard for $5!
I'm taking the IC to a professional welder to have the tanks and the cores welded on. I don't have access to a TIG welder and since I never used one I thought it would be a better choice to be done by a pro. As much as I like doing my own wrenching, some things are better left to a expert.
01-21-2008, 11:17 PM
#25
Race Car
Imo000
I saw your DYI S/C and looked at your Maf clamp how did you attach it to the base portion of the TB on your 86. This is the problem I am having with it not being to stay in place firmly.
I saw your DYI S/C and looked at your Maf clamp how did you attach it to the base portion of the TB on your 86. This is the problem I am having with it not being to stay in place firmly.
01-22-2008, 10:05 AM
#26
Craic Head
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Tampa,
I was going to suggest this when I saw your thread the other day. I think it's just a hose clamp at the base that when tightened, keeps the MAF from blowing off. Just fabricate the two pieces for along the sides as Imre shows here:
I was going to suggest this when I saw your thread the other day. I think it's just a hose clamp at the base that when tightened, keeps the MAF from blowing off. Just fabricate the two pieces for along the sides as Imre shows here:
01-22-2008, 05:23 PM
#27
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Thread Starter
Sorry I didn’t see this till now.
As Mike suggested, it’s only a regular large hose clamp (the screw part is on the other side of the MAF) that holds it all together. I guess a T-bolt clamp could be used to put more force on the claws but for my setup a regular clamps was sufficient. I got the idea from how a gear puller works. What you see in the picture, after installation, will be pointing down and the other side (where you are tightening the clamp) will be visible. Tightening of the clamp was pretty easy, BUT I had to use a very long screwdriver (~10”) to reach in between the two middle intake runners. For this the passenger side intake end had to be off.
I used a piece of coat hanger to get the correct shape and size of the clamps, and then transferred the shape and length to a flat stock. When the cutting was done, I used the shape of the coat hanger pieces to bend the claws to the proper shape. Amazingly they both came out perfect for the first try. I was ready to make a few before getting it right but must have gotten lucky that day. I guess eyeball engineering does work at times!
As Mike suggested, it’s only a regular large hose clamp (the screw part is on the other side of the MAF) that holds it all together. I guess a T-bolt clamp could be used to put more force on the claws but for my setup a regular clamps was sufficient. I got the idea from how a gear puller works. What you see in the picture, after installation, will be pointing down and the other side (where you are tightening the clamp) will be visible. Tightening of the clamp was pretty easy, BUT I had to use a very long screwdriver (~10”) to reach in between the two middle intake runners. For this the passenger side intake end had to be off.
I used a piece of coat hanger to get the correct shape and size of the clamps, and then transferred the shape and length to a flat stock. When the cutting was done, I used the shape of the coat hanger pieces to bend the claws to the proper shape. Amazingly they both came out perfect for the first try. I was ready to make a few before getting it right but must have gotten lucky that day. I guess eyeball engineering does work at times!
