Maf attachment for S/C better way?
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From: Tampa Florida
Maf attachment for S/C better way?
86
I have hooked up my Maf with a lower and upper clamp secured by two very large wire ties. I'm not convinced that this is going to hold it in place seems to want to go side to side a hair. Any one done this before and have a better way to do this?
I have hooked up my Maf with a lower and upper clamp secured by two very large wire ties. I'm not convinced that this is going to hold it in place seems to want to go side to side a hair. Any one done this before and have a better way to do this?
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Tim Murphy used to supply a bracket that bolted down to the water jacket cover at the rear of the driver side head. The bracket attached to the upper boot clamp bolt. It did a good job of keeping the boot on. He has since changed to another method, although I have not seen it. Maybe that is what you have. I can tell you tie-wraps don't work!
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From: Tampa Florida
This is Tims kit: On an 86 it only has a ring around the intake hole and the Maf just site in the hole. I used a large bracket over the ring and a large bracket over the top off the Maf and using two straps to hold it together.
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If it's Tim's, trust it. We're waiting to get one from Tim for George Suennen's car after the older style bracket had to be given up due to a problem with the mounting point on the block. We temporarily did tie-wraps from the upper boot clamp to the legs of the manifold - Boy, was that stupid.
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From: Tampa Florida
Maybe I'm doing some thing wrong but it seems not to be in very secure as in flat and tight.
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From: Tampa Florida
Got a couple of E-mails in to him.
I need to also get a 4 rib pulley for the alternator, Tim's pulley is a a four rib, old one was a 5, Roger is working on that.
I did expect some issues due to the 85-86 models but am documenting everything for Tim as I go along. My big concern is the Maf as I stated, this has always been of poor design nothing to lock it in, just pushes in. If anything is not correct it will **** it sideways.
I am going to have Roger send me a TB assembly and will try to design something to make this work, don't want to damage mine in the process.
Are the later models the same as my 86 seems Tim's install manual looks like it can be mounted securely with just wire ties.
I maybe doing something wrong but tried several ways to attach this but with only two points it does move enough to break the top rubber seal.
I need to also get a 4 rib pulley for the alternator, Tim's pulley is a a four rib, old one was a 5, Roger is working on that.
I did expect some issues due to the 85-86 models but am documenting everything for Tim as I go along. My big concern is the Maf as I stated, this has always been of poor design nothing to lock it in, just pushes in. If anything is not correct it will **** it sideways.
I am going to have Roger send me a TB assembly and will try to design something to make this work, don't want to damage mine in the process.
Are the later models the same as my 86 seems Tim's install manual looks like it can be mounted securely with just wire ties.
I maybe doing something wrong but tried several ways to attach this but with only two points it does move enough to break the top rubber seal.
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From: Buckeye, AZ
Oh, I see this may be a new issue as you have an 86. The attachment to the air guide housing is completely different from the later boot to throttle body arrangement. As to how to install it, Tim should be involved.
Last edited by Bill Ball; Jan 21, 2008 at 11:08 PM.
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From: Long Island and Lake George, NY
I'm not totally familiar with the '85-'86.5 throttle body inlet at the MAF, but I understand it is just metal and the MAF is a slip fit.
I just looked at my spare MAF, and there is enough room to get a silicone turbo transition hose and a V-band clamp in there below the plug interface. Is there enough room to get the hose and another V-band clamp on the metal inlet?
I see a 3.75" to 4" ID transition hose (3" long) at turbohoses.com. May be able to slip over the metal TB intake and the MAF body by a bit (may need a different size). If you could adapt that, it should give a good holding seal. Then 2 cable ties from the lower clamp to the top "ears" of the MAF to lock it in place. That adapter is $43 at that site, just did a quick search.
Jim
I just looked at my spare MAF, and there is enough room to get a silicone turbo transition hose and a V-band clamp in there below the plug interface. Is there enough room to get the hose and another V-band clamp on the metal inlet?
I see a 3.75" to 4" ID transition hose (3" long) at turbohoses.com. May be able to slip over the metal TB intake and the MAF body by a bit (may need a different size). If you could adapt that, it should give a good holding seal. Then 2 cable ties from the lower clamp to the top "ears" of the MAF to lock it in place. That adapter is $43 at that site, just did a quick search.
Jim
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From: Abbotsford B.C.
the piece on the 85/86s didnt really have anything to bolt it to, or hold it down in the area.
I would personally remove that lower piece and have 2 little tabs welded onto it and then use zap straps through these and the open slits on the MAF.
I would personally remove that lower piece and have 2 little tabs welded onto it and then use zap straps through these and the open slits on the MAF.
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Mark,
If the T-bolt clamp I gave you fits around the cast aluminum base where the MAF slips into, the heavy duty cable ties clamped under that T-bolt clamp and under the T-bolt clamp on the rubber elbow, on the top side of the MAF, WILL be strong enough to keep everything together. You personally will not be strong enough to pull it apart. I think each one of those cable ties has a 250 lb tensile strength rating.
Just put it together the way I have suggested and if we have a problem we will figure it out from there.
Looks like you are doing a great job getting this together!
Oh, one other thing.... the stock alternator belt is a 6 rib and the one I supply is a 4 rib to replace the 6 rib. Use the 4 rib belt and run it on the outer 4 ribs of the alternator pulley, like shown in the manual. I have lots and lots of miles on that setup and it works great. There is no need for a custom alternator pulley.
Keep up the good work!