I have everything disassembled and tensioner rebuild all supplies ready to bolt everything back together. BUT I am stuck trying to remove a plastic cover and the oil pump sprocket.
I really want to change the crank seal and oil pump seal.
How can I remove the plastic back plate of the t-belt covers without removing the driver side cam sprocket? Should I brake the cover and remove? With that cover in place I can not get at the crank seal.

AND I can not get the oil pump sprocket off.

Please if anyone knows let me know. I wanted to finish tonight.
Thanks.

 

here the pic...

 

You'll have to loosen the power steering pump bracket and the alternator bracket to get it off without breaking it. It's one of the PIAs getting into and out of the job.

 

The oil pump sprocket will come off with a puller - after you get the retaining nut off.

 

You will have to remove that little allen head screw that you have circled in the diagram above. Its located behind the cam gear housing and down low. Your coil ground cable may be attached in that same area. Its a pita to get to.

 

Ernest, ps pump and alternator are long removed, but that cover is bolted somewhere behind the cam sprocket.
Dave, are you sure it requires a puller? If so, I guess I will have to take a chance and leave the old seal, because I have no puller.

Are these oil pump seals prone to leak?

jadavis, sounds like you have done this before. Is it possible with the cam sprocket in place or not?

 

If you scribe the cam gear where the three bolts hold it to the spider, it shouldn't be any great trick to remove and replace in the same position .... if cam timing is a concern.
There were several recent threads on oil pump & seal/o-ring refresh.

 

Sab,

Go buy or rent a puller-they are quite inexpensive (napa, pep boys, autozone, sears). Don't rush just to get done, you don't want to be back in there for at least 4 years.

As for the cam gear, remove the ignition rotor. Mark or scribe the "spider" plate through the cam gear slots. Remove gear, and replace exactly on the marks on reassembly. Should be right on or at least as it was prior to removal.

HTH,

Jim

 

You must be missing a bolt somewhere. Once the bolts are out and the PS and ALT are out of the way the cover should fall off.

 

There is a bolt on the backside... driver side... this stumped me too... Of course do not break it... just reach up there.

The oil pump sproket can be remove by using a 4 dollar rubber strap wrench. These generic tools come in handy for removing and retorqueing delicate items that require special posche tools....

Rebuild the pump with oem seals orings etc.

If you are replacing the main seal... replacing without the tool is kind of tough if you can rent the seal seating tool I would say do that... I made a tool to do it out of wood.... using a couple of hole saws that just happened to be the same as the OD and ID of the seal... the seal will sitt a couple of mm under the level of the block... it does no sit flush... so note this when you do it...

Oil pump shaft seal and crank seal will be a lot easier to remove with a hooked seal remover (pep boys) use a rag to keep from scaring your block or oil pump...

Clean the tensioner area really well as leaking here is a tough one to solve.... I think mine actually is seeping here a bit...

good luck and also make sure you have some sort of belt tension tool handy when you start to tighten it up.

LO

 

As soon as I removed the cam sprocket I saw the bolt on the backside. So that was a not needed step.
The oil pump sprocket came of extremely hard and had some sort of residue on the shaft, almost as if someone had put some locktite on the shaft.
I was not planning on taking the pump out, but just replace the front seal. Does it need more?
I will head out to pep boys and buy that seal remover.
Got the Kempf tool.
Thanks a lot for the advise.

 

Sab as john davis and i said, that bolt is the only thing stopping you. i did not remove my cam gear. be very careful prying the seal out, you could damage the thin wall behind which is an oil galley. rather punch a hole in the seal and pull it with a hook *carefully*.

 

I am a bit worried about getting these seals out without damaging anything. Anymore tips on removing the seals?

 

my comments were for main seal. not oil pump

 

For the oil pump I used hook puller. Someone gave a link on the internet, costs like 5$+shipping. Very usefull. For the crank seal, there is a groove where you can put the screwdriver in. Just take a rubber hummer, put screwdriver in that groove and hit it. When the crank seal will be bent just enough for screwdriver to get a grip, just pry it out, very easy.(don't try to hit the screwdriver BETWEEN the seal and the block, try to make it as perpendicular to the block as you can) Be carefull not to scratch the crank. To put the seals on, I used PVC tubes from home depot. Don't remember the sizing, but it was between 1.5 inch to 3 inch. They cost like 1$ each so get yourself a "kit" then a hacksaw, and you'll be able to find the one which fits the best. If you plan to replace the thrust washers, then you can put a PVC pipe on the seal, then the washer, and then tighten it with the crank bolt. Be very carefull, it should go in even and the inner lip(which is surrounded by "spring") should not "flip out", or you will need a new seal and do the whole thing again. For that, put some engine oil on the crank surface and a lot on the inner lip of the seal, then get a tiny screwdriver, put cloth around it, and when putting the seal in, from time to time correct the lip by tucking it in as soon as you see it getting out. In the end, the outer seal surface should be even with the engine block(from outside). The same procedure for the oil pump seal. Put WD40 on the oil pump shaft, make it shiny. The same with the sprocket. What I did, I got some very fine sand paper, put WD40 in and then did the inner surface of the sprocket to make it shiny. That's pretty much it.

Klim
P.S. If you will be using the hook puller on the oil pump seal, put cloth around it not to scratch anything.