Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

need help during t-belt procedure

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-21-2006, 12:20 AM
  #1  
Sab
Addict
Rennlist Member

Thread Starter
 
Sab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,732
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default need help during t-belt procedure

I have everything disassembled and tensioner rebuild all supplies ready to bolt everything back together. BUT I am stuck trying to remove a plastic cover and the oil pump sprocket.
I really want to change the crank seal and oil pump seal.
How can I remove the plastic back plate of the t-belt covers without removing the driver side cam sprocket? Should I brake the cover and remove? With that cover in place I can not get at the crank seal.

AND I can not get the oil pump sprocket off.

Please if anyone knows let me know. I wanted to finish tonight.
Thanks.
Old 01-21-2006, 12:24 AM
  #2  
Sab
Addict
Rennlist Member

Thread Starter
 
Sab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,732
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

here the pic...
Attached Images  
Old 01-21-2006, 12:33 AM
  #3  
ErnestSw
Rennlist Member
 
ErnestSw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

You'll have to loosen the power steering pump bracket and the alternator bracket to get it off without breaking it. It's one of the PIAs getting into and out of the job.
Old 01-21-2006, 12:39 AM
  #4  
worf928
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
worf928's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Gone. On the Open Road
Posts: 16,470
Received 1,624 Likes on 1,061 Posts
Default

The oil pump sprocket will come off with a puller - after you get the retaining nut off.
Old 01-21-2006, 12:43 AM
  #5  
jadavis01
Advanced
 
jadavis01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Seattle
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

You will have to remove that little allen head screw that you have circled in the diagram above. Its located behind the cam gear housing and down low. Your coil ground cable may be attached in that same area. Its a pita to get to.
Old 01-21-2006, 01:03 AM
  #6  
Sab
Addict
Rennlist Member

Thread Starter
 
Sab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,732
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Ernest, ps pump and alternator are long removed, but that cover is bolted somewhere behind the cam sprocket.
Dave, are you sure it requires a puller? If so, I guess I will have to take a chance and leave the old seal, because I have no puller.

Are these oil pump seals prone to leak?

jadavis, sounds like you have done this before. Is it possible with the cam sprocket in place or not?
Old 01-21-2006, 06:30 AM
  #7  
Garth S
Rennlist Member
 
Garth S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 7,210
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes on 13 Posts
Default

If you scribe the cam gear where the three bolts hold it to the spider, it shouldn't be any great trick to remove and replace in the same position .... if cam timing is a concern.
There were several recent threads on oil pump & seal/o-ring refresh.
Old 01-21-2006, 08:05 AM
  #8  
Jim R.
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
Jim R.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Long Island and Lake George, NY
Posts: 917
Received 10 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Sab,

Go buy or rent a puller-they are quite inexpensive (napa, pep boys, autozone, sears). Don't rush just to get done, you don't want to be back in there for at least 4 years.

As for the cam gear, remove the ignition rotor. Mark or scribe the "spider" plate through the cam gear slots. Remove gear, and replace exactly on the marks on reassembly. Should be right on or at least as it was prior to removal.

HTH,

Jim
Old 01-21-2006, 12:10 PM
  #9  
ErnestSw
Rennlist Member
 
ErnestSw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

You must be missing a bolt somewhere. Once the bolts are out and the PS and ALT are out of the way the cover should fall off.
Old 01-21-2006, 12:27 PM
  #10  
lorenolson888
Pro
 
lorenolson888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 504
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default Good man changing your own TB... but be gentle...

There is a bolt on the backside... driver side... this stumped me too... Of course do not break it... just reach up there.

The oil pump sproket can be remove by using a 4 dollar rubber strap wrench. These generic tools come in handy for removing and retorqueing delicate items that require special posche tools....

Rebuild the pump with oem seals orings etc.

If you are replacing the main seal... replacing without the tool is kind of tough if you can rent the seal seating tool I would say do that... I made a tool to do it out of wood.... using a couple of hole saws that just happened to be the same as the OD and ID of the seal... the seal will sitt a couple of mm under the level of the block... it does no sit flush... so note this when you do it...

Oil pump shaft seal and crank seal will be a lot easier to remove with a hooked seal remover (pep boys) use a rag to keep from scaring your block or oil pump...

Clean the tensioner area really well as leaking here is a tough one to solve.... I think mine actually is seeping here a bit...

good luck and also make sure you have some sort of belt tension tool handy when you start to tighten it up.

LO
Old 01-21-2006, 12:43 PM
  #11  
Sab
Addict
Rennlist Member

Thread Starter
 
Sab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,732
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

As soon as I removed the cam sprocket I saw the bolt on the backside. So that was a not needed step.
The oil pump sprocket came of extremely hard and had some sort of residue on the shaft, almost as if someone had put some locktite on the shaft.
I was not planning on taking the pump out, but just replace the front seal. Does it need more?
I will head out to pep boys and buy that seal remover.
Got the Kempf tool.
Thanks a lot for the advise.
Old 01-21-2006, 12:44 PM
  #12  
heinrich
928 Collector
Rennlist Member

 
heinrich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Seattle
Posts: 17,269
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Sab as john davis and i said, that bolt is the only thing stopping you. i did not remove my cam gear. be very careful prying the seal out, you could damage the thin wall behind which is an oil galley. rather punch a hole in the seal and pull it with a hook *carefully*.
Old 01-21-2006, 12:45 PM
  #13  
Sab
Addict
Rennlist Member

Thread Starter
 
Sab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,732
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I am a bit worried about getting these seals out without damaging anything. Anymore tips on removing the seals?
Old 01-21-2006, 12:45 PM
  #14  
heinrich
928 Collector
Rennlist Member

 
heinrich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Seattle
Posts: 17,269
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

my comments were for main seal. not oil pump
Old 01-21-2006, 01:31 PM
  #15  
mulik51
Racer
 
mulik51's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Princeton, NJ, USA
Posts: 475
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

For the oil pump I used hook puller. Someone gave a link on the internet, costs like 5$+shipping. Very usefull. For the crank seal, there is a groove where you can put the screwdriver in. Just take a rubber hummer, put screwdriver in that groove and hit it. When the crank seal will be bent just enough for screwdriver to get a grip, just pry it out, very easy.(don't try to hit the screwdriver BETWEEN the seal and the block, try to make it as perpendicular to the block as you can) Be carefull not to scratch the crank. To put the seals on, I used PVC tubes from home depot. Don't remember the sizing, but it was between 1.5 inch to 3 inch. They cost like 1$ each so get yourself a "kit" then a hacksaw, and you'll be able to find the one which fits the best. If you plan to replace the thrust washers, then you can put a PVC pipe on the seal, then the washer, and then tighten it with the crank bolt. Be very carefull, it should go in even and the inner lip(which is surrounded by "spring") should not "flip out", or you will need a new seal and do the whole thing again. For that, put some engine oil on the crank surface and a lot on the inner lip of the seal, then get a tiny screwdriver, put cloth around it, and when putting the seal in, from time to time correct the lip by tucking it in as soon as you see it getting out. In the end, the outer seal surface should be even with the engine block(from outside). The same procedure for the oil pump seal. Put WD40 on the oil pump shaft, make it shiny. The same with the sprocket. What I did, I got some very fine sand paper, put WD40 in and then did the inner surface of the sprocket to make it shiny. That's pretty much it.

Klim
P.S. If you will be using the hook puller on the oil pump seal, put cloth around it not to scratch anything.


Quick Reply: need help during t-belt procedure



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 10:20 AM.