I used the seal puller.

Wrap the head of the tool with a rag. Then use it to lever the seal out... if you hook the inner hole on the seal carefully it should com out easy.

LO

 

OK, thanks for all the advise. The seal is out.
The seal that came out is all rubber/plastic and the new one is steel on the outside.
Did I get the wrong part? If it is the correct seal, does the steel seal need some sort of sealant before I install it?

 

yay!! no sealant

 

just smack in eh? Thanks.

 

The PVC pipe fitting is a good idea... I think That will work as well as my homemade wood tool and is easier...

You should seat the crank main seal deep... it will go 1 to 2 mm past flush with the block. That is why I told you to make note of how deep the seal was beofer you removed it. It will seat fairely deep.

Seat it straight and then gently tap it into place with a hammer... Go around in circles... gently tapping your way around. Uses some oil when installing it.

Good luck

LO

 

I suppose that you could use heat to expand the sprocket. However, I have always used a two-jaw puller after heating the sprocket. Short money from Sears for a puller.

On the other hand, it the oil seals are not leaking I'd leave them alone. There's both a shaft seal and an o-ring behind the body. See 17-6 through 17-6f in the WSM; it isn't a simple as the FMS or RMS.

 

I removed that rear cover bolt behind cam wheel with a ball ended allen key - once you have that its easy. My oil pump seal was dry so i didnt disturb it. Did the front main seal, worst part of that if getting the tiny circlips off and back on the two pins holding the gguide plate unde rthe crank wheel.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k